30T Sprocket?
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 438
Likes: 57
30T Sprocket?
I have to remove my primary cover to get it powder coated. As long as it is off, I am debating about going from my stock sprocket to a 30 tooth one. My thought is better acceleration and a more usable 6th gear. My engine is stock and I will not get around to any engine mods for a year. Also, what are the pros/cons of a compensator eliminator? Should I leave the sock compensator in, put in upgraded springs or the eliminator? BTW, my bike is a 2008 Street Bob.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 231
Likes: 23
From: Rochester NY
This is in one of the other threads,
I swapped to a 30t pulley, upgraded pulley nut, S&S bearing race, SE compensator, Baker manual adjuster, HD clutch spring. Its not cheap but I did save money buying used and painting myself.
Can anyone else recommend what else should be done while in there if going after a 30T on a 2014 dyna
I swapped to a 30t pulley, upgraded pulley nut, S&S bearing race, SE compensator, Baker manual adjuster, HD clutch spring. Its not cheap but I did save money buying used and painting myself.
Can anyone else recommend what else should be done while in there if going after a 30T on a 2014 dyna
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 1,884
I did the Andrews 30 tooth power pulley on my 2012. I will say it goes great with cams & head work. It was recommended to me from Andrews to go with a shorter belt. Some stay with the stock belt and say its fine. If you do go with a shorter belt only Use Hd or gates. I used an aftermarket belt and it began to Frey after a few miles. Changed to hd international belt and all has been fine now for many miles.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 875
From: Iowa
So you are taking the outer primary off and are thinking about doing the 30T swap while you are in there? I like my 30T swap, but be aware that you are now talking about removing the primary tensioner, the primary chain, the compensator, the inner primary, and the pulley nut that is on like no other nut that you have ever seen. I had to cut mine off. Also, many more tools needed like the primary locking bracket so that you can put a new pulley nut back on, the primary chain locking bar so that you can remove and install the primary chain, the pulley socket that is special just for the primary drive on a Harley, and if you are doing the Baker primary bearing while you are in there you are talking about getting a race puller and finding a way to remove and install the bearing. Just saying be aware of all that is entailed. Something you may want to look at swapping while in there is the primary tensioner. I'd suggest swapping to the Baker Armored Attitude Adjuster. It prevents the over tightening that can come with the stock tensioner. If you plan to do a cam swap, big bore, or head work maybe look at upgrading the clutch with a kevlar extra plate clutch kit, an AIM VP clutch plate, or a higher pressure clutch spring (that one can be tiresome on the hand and is really only necessary if you are getting to be over 90 HP). Those are all easy upgrades while the outer primary is off and only require the primary chain locking bar as an additional tool.
Last edited by Jay Guild; Feb 1, 2019 at 09:45 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 156
Likes: 21
From: Farmington, MN
To add to what Jay is saying, read this thread. It helped guide me to what I needed to do the 70/30 swap on my '11 Street Bob. If you have an impact wrench, the pulley nut is a breeze to remove. If you do not.... get ready for a struggle.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...p-to-13-a.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...p-to-13-a.html
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 1,884
When I had mine installed I went with se vpc. Everything else was left stock. About a year after install my stock auto chain tensioner started over ratcheting. I also went with baker armored attitude manual adjuster. I also did the baker compensator even though I had no problems with the stock set - up. You will also have to adjust your speedometer. I went with Dakota digital. I like the 30 tooth mode a lot , would not ever go back. More grunt of the line and great on the highway. It is a very popular mode for Heavey baggers so even better for lighter bikes!
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2007
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So you are taking the outer primary off and are thinking about doing the 30T swap while you are in there? I like my 30T swap, but be aware that you are now talking about removing the primary tensioner, the primary chain, the compensator, the inner primary, and the pulley nut that is on like no other nut that you have ever seen. I had to cut mine off. Also, many more tools needed like the primary locking bracket so that you can put a new pulley nut back on, the primary chain locking bar so that you can remove and install the primary chain, the pulley socket that is special just for the primary drive on a Harley, and if you are doing the Baker primary bearing while you are in there you are talking about getting a race puller and finding a way to remove and install the bearing. Just saying be aware of all that is entailed. Something you may want to look at swapping while in there is the primary tensioner. I'd suggest swapping to the Baker Armored Attitude Adjuster. It prevents the over tightening that can come with the stock tensioner. If you plan to do a cam swap, big bore, or head work maybe look at upgrading the clutch with a kevlar extra plate clutch kit, an AIM VP clutch plate, or a higher pressure clutch spring (that one can be tiresome on the hand and is really only necessary if you are getting to be over 90 HP). Those are all easy upgrades while the outer primary is off and only require the primary chain locking bar as an additional tool.
Tools would not be a problem. Can fab up the locking bars, bearing pullers are fairly common, and although the nut is tight, with a little of heat a 1/2" impact should have no difficulty. worst case could put a 3/4" on it (but probably would not as would not want to take a chance & twist the tranny shaft).
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 156
Likes: 21
From: Farmington, MN
I do understand what is entailed and realize that just having the outer primary of puts you only 33% there. Maybe I'll save the 30T for when I do engine upgrades, I'll have to take the primary off again anyway for the clutch & compensator upgrades. Would love to do everything now, but 30T, clutch, compensator, chain tensioner, gaskets, etc. would be more than $1K which I cannot spring for right now. Of course, next year, the engine build will be that much more expensive...
Tools would not be a problem. Can fab up the locking bars, bearing pullers are fairly common, and although the nut is tight, with a little of heat a 1/2" impact should have no difficulty. worst case could put a 3/4" on it (but probably would not as would not want to take a chance & twist the tranny shaft).
Tools would not be a problem. Can fab up the locking bars, bearing pullers are fairly common, and although the nut is tight, with a little of heat a 1/2" impact should have no difficulty. worst case could put a 3/4" on it (but probably would not as would not want to take a chance & twist the tranny shaft).
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 1,966
From: Great State of Canada
This info may be of some help to you. As you can see, it pertains directly to mods done on a pre-18 Breakout but some of the ideas may be helpful, particularly that of changing the rear sprocket along with the front one to enhance performance further and retain the original drive belt which is an expensive part.
Transmission final drive pulley 30t / 68t upgrade info for Breakout FXSB I am putting on the 30T front pulley in the next couple of weeks. Here is the correct info for anyone else looking to do this. Another excellent bang for buck performance upgrade.
Typical cost, $300 parts & labor for front pulley swap, and another $100 for the rear pulley swap assuming you DIY the rear pulley change. otherwise add on another $70 in labor. Still, that's less than the cost of a fancy air cleaner for much better acceleration and ZERO downside.
STOCK INFO:
Breakout primary gears stock:
34 on the compensator, and 46 on the clutch bucket.
Breakout secondary pulleys stock:
2013 to present FXSB - Pulley F: 32T - Pulley R: 66T
Breakout drive belt:
Belt width: 24mm Length 133T
UPGRADE PARTS:
Front final drive pulley: 30 Tooth Tans Sprocket
2011 Tri Glide Trans Sprocket is P/N 83595-11 $63, discount avg. prices HD-83595-11
Primary complete gasket kits needed:
Inner kit - Harley Davidson 25700226 GASKET KIT, INNER PRIMARY $43 avg price
Outer kit - JAMES GASKETS, INC. JGI-60547-06-KF GASKET KIT PRIMARY COVER $50 avg price
Drive belt:
You can use the same 133T belt if you do both the 30T front and 68T rear, or, leave the stock 32T front and do the 68T rear pulley. If you only install the 30T front and leave the 66T rear, you must buy a shorter 132 or 131 belt.
Labor costs:
Local HD dealer (Barger HD in Canoga Park, California) quoted me $135 labor for the install assuming I have all parts.
Local HD dealer (Glendale HD in Glendale, California) quoted me $150 labor for the install.
Both dealers stated it is about a 1.5hr job
I called a local indy shop - "Born Free Cycles" in Burbank, and was quoted !$350! for labor only. WTF?
Ratios and RPMs
The overall drive ratio will change from the stock 2.79 to 3.067 (9.899% shorter gearing = NICE!).
The RPM's with a 30T front and 68T rear in 6th are as follows:
60 mph = 96.5 kph 2420 rpm
65 mph = 104.6 kph 2621 rpm
70 mph = 112.6 kph 2823 rpm
75 mph = 120.7 kph 3025 rpm
80 mph = 128.7 kph 3226 rpm
85 mph = 136.8 kph 3428 rpm
90 mph = 144.8 kph 3630 rpm95 mph = 152.9 kph 3832 rpm100 mph = 160.9 kph 4033 rpm
Rear Pulley upgrade:
See my previous posts in this thread for the rear 68T sportster pulley (P/N 40444-07) upgrade and the shorter five hub bolts (P/N 3899). Easy to DIY on the rear pulley with basic tools.
Speedometer:
Your speedo will be off by 9.899% with the new 30t / 68t combo vs the stock 32t / 66t so you'll need a TTS / PV2 to change the calibration, by adding 9.899% to the stock speedometer value of 2115. You may want to add another 3 or 4 % to account for any factory deviation, as HD allows for up to 5% discrepancy. Best of luck.
Transmission final drive pulley 30t / 68t upgrade info for Breakout FXSB I am putting on the 30T front pulley in the next couple of weeks. Here is the correct info for anyone else looking to do this. Another excellent bang for buck performance upgrade.
Typical cost, $300 parts & labor for front pulley swap, and another $100 for the rear pulley swap assuming you DIY the rear pulley change. otherwise add on another $70 in labor. Still, that's less than the cost of a fancy air cleaner for much better acceleration and ZERO downside.
STOCK INFO:
Breakout primary gears stock:
34 on the compensator, and 46 on the clutch bucket.
Breakout secondary pulleys stock:
2013 to present FXSB - Pulley F: 32T - Pulley R: 66T
Breakout drive belt:
Belt width: 24mm Length 133T
UPGRADE PARTS:
Front final drive pulley: 30 Tooth Tans Sprocket
2011 Tri Glide Trans Sprocket is P/N 83595-11 $63, discount avg. prices HD-83595-11
Primary complete gasket kits needed:
Inner kit - Harley Davidson 25700226 GASKET KIT, INNER PRIMARY $43 avg price
Outer kit - JAMES GASKETS, INC. JGI-60547-06-KF GASKET KIT PRIMARY COVER $50 avg price
Drive belt:
You can use the same 133T belt if you do both the 30T front and 68T rear, or, leave the stock 32T front and do the 68T rear pulley. If you only install the 30T front and leave the 66T rear, you must buy a shorter 132 or 131 belt.
Labor costs:
Local HD dealer (Barger HD in Canoga Park, California) quoted me $135 labor for the install assuming I have all parts.
Local HD dealer (Glendale HD in Glendale, California) quoted me $150 labor for the install.
Both dealers stated it is about a 1.5hr job
I called a local indy shop - "Born Free Cycles" in Burbank, and was quoted !$350! for labor only. WTF?
Ratios and RPMs
The overall drive ratio will change from the stock 2.79 to 3.067 (9.899% shorter gearing = NICE!).
The RPM's with a 30T front and 68T rear in 6th are as follows:
60 mph = 96.5 kph 2420 rpm
65 mph = 104.6 kph 2621 rpm
70 mph = 112.6 kph 2823 rpm
75 mph = 120.7 kph 3025 rpm
80 mph = 128.7 kph 3226 rpm
85 mph = 136.8 kph 3428 rpm
90 mph = 144.8 kph 3630 rpm95 mph = 152.9 kph 3832 rpm100 mph = 160.9 kph 4033 rpm
Rear Pulley upgrade:
See my previous posts in this thread for the rear 68T sportster pulley (P/N 40444-07) upgrade and the shorter five hub bolts (P/N 3899). Easy to DIY on the rear pulley with basic tools.
Speedometer:
Your speedo will be off by 9.899% with the new 30t / 68t combo vs the stock 32t / 66t so you'll need a TTS / PV2 to change the calibration, by adding 9.899% to the stock speedometer value of 2115. You may want to add another 3 or 4 % to account for any factory deviation, as HD allows for up to 5% discrepancy. Best of luck.
