Problems after cam install
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 1,017
From: Lawrenceville Ga.
There is a measurement known as "dynamic" or "corrected" compression. Basically, an engine cannot begin building compression in a cylinder until all of the valves in that cylinder have closed. The Woods 555 closes the intake valve at 41 degrees after top dead center, the factory 2010 Fat Bob cams closed at 30 after TDC (11 degrees sooner). This means that you will experience a loss of compression by installing that camshaft vs the factory camshaft, which is why some camshafts recommend high compression pistons or headwork to achieve high compression.
Here is what Mikuni has to say about the subject,
If you want to play around with the values yourself, you can try out this Twin Cam Compression and Engine Displacement Calculator. http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm
Here is what Mikuni has to say about the subject,
If you want to play around with the values yourself, you can try out this Twin Cam Compression and Engine Displacement Calculator. http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/TwinCamComp.htm
I have more off idle torque and comes on very strong at 2500
If your AF is too rich (gas mileage below 38 MPG for a stage 1) it will be weak thru the whole RPM range
I can send you a map you might want to try
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 42
Likes: 2
From: london ontario
Thanks blue bob, I definitely know its running rich. Fuel mileage, lack of power and the people riding behind me telling me it smells rich haha. I chose the 555 cams as per the recommendation from fuel moto. I trust them and their opinion.
It would be great if you could send me a map, I'd like to play with it a bit before I crack it open again to see if I messed up somewhere
It would be great if you could send me a map, I'd like to play with it a bit before I crack it open again to see if I messed up somewhere
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 251
From: Belle River Ontario
Like I said in my original post...start with the dots. Anytime you change something and the bike gets worse go back to what you did and recheck it....
Tune is not going to help if the dots are out...
Tune is not going to help if the dots are out...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure ive read before that the 555s need a compression bump over stock to perform to their potential. That's why your bike feels soft on the bottom...the tune is probably lacking too. Someone way smarter than me who knows will be here soon enough.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 126
Likes: 27
From: Black Hills of South Dakota
I have the Woods 555's, knight lifters and a FuelMoto Series E 2-1 on a 2011 FXDC.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 1,068
From: Ohio
I have the Woods 555's, knight lifters and a FuelMoto Series E 2-1 on a 2011 FXDC.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Last edited by brownie4412; Jun 9, 2019 at 11:25 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 1,017
From: Lawrenceville Ga.
I have the Woods 555's, knight lifters and a FuelMoto Series E 2-1 on a 2011 FXDC.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Initially I ran a tune for SE cams that worked using a TTS tuner.
I was faced with either going to a dyno for $400 or $500 bucks or getting a PV tuner from FuelMoto for $400. I went with the PV from FM.
FM sent me a tune from their dyno work on an identical setup (stock compression, roller lifters, 555 cams, K&N aircleaner, 2-1 pipe) There is nothing sluggish about the set up. The thing is a rocket ship. The tune totally changed the way the bike runs, the SE tune was ok but the FM tune is fantastic.
555's don't pull hard early and run out of steam, they pull strong and pull that way all across the rpm spread. Where the grunt cams run out of steam these just keep coming on. I had to reset the rev limiter because they will easily pull like crazy well up past 6200+ rpms.
There must be a way to determine if you have the dot's lined up correctly without taking it apart, anybody have an idea on how to do this??
I don't know if its possible to detect a one tooth difference while looking at TDC or not.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Are you using the FM D-12-103-TW555-CL.pvt tune?
Last edited by Blue Bob; Jun 9, 2019 at 03:28 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 1,017
From: Lawrenceville Ga.
Thanks blue bob, I definitely know its running rich. Fuel mileage, lack of power and the people riding behind me telling me it smells rich haha. I chose the 555 cams as per the recommendation from fuel moto. I trust them and their opinion.
It would be great if you could send me a map, I'd like to play with it a bit before I crack it open again to see if I messed up somewhere
It would be great if you could send me a map, I'd like to play with it a bit before I crack it open again to see if I messed up somewhere