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Does anyone know if there is a cable disconnect between the handlebar controls and the main wiring harness? I'm trying to install the Digital Guard Dawg keyless module on a 2011 FXDC. It supposedly works for any Harley earlier than 2012. The instructions have you disconnect the cable that runs to the on/off switch on the handlebars to do some wiring changes. It looks like the cables run from the handlebars all the way to a huge harness bundle behind the fuse panel. No disconnect plugs are visible anywhere for the controls. Would be the same question if raising handlebars. Where do the cables disconnect?
I think you might be right. I pulled out the grommet (which is a great place to hard mount a battery tender port) and could see some connectors inside. I'll pop out the front bolt and raise the tank up to find out.
Last edited by Kevinq; Jul 7, 2019 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: left out tank
No need to raise the tank, remove that rubber grommet and pull the wires out, they should stretch about 20” or so and expose the handlebar connectors....that’s what I did on my 2012 FXDC when I ran them through the bars...
So I finally got around to completing this project for the most part. ie. I got it working. I'll post pics when I can. I ended up removing the tank and adding quick disconnects to the crossover line to avoid draining the tank every time I need to pull it off. Once the tank was off, I had room to pull out the plastic cover under the frame to expose the harnesses to/from the handlebars. That's where the wiring disconnects were hiding. There was not enough wire there to pull the plugs up through the grommet. I had to disconnect from under the frame first and then pull them out to do the work.
There is very little real estate on a Harley to hide extra components, so I improvised by adding a cheap fork bag to house the unit, and blended the wires in with the harness running under the tank console. This is not ideal, but it looks awesome and will work until I engineer a more permanent solution.
ABOUT THE SYSTEM FOR ANYONE INTERESTED
The unit works exactly the same as the keyless systems on the newer bikes, and I believe is made by the same company. The fob can be set to manual (press a button to power on) or automatic (hands-free motion activated..just toggling the kill switch on is more motion than required). You do have to be in range of the bike and have the kill switch turned on for it to work. I have not tested the range yet, but I believe it to be around 20+ feet. It functions as if you leave the kill switch on all the time and use the ignition switch to power the bike on and off. You still crank and kill the engine as normal, but when you turn off the kill switch, it powers off the bike as if you turned off the ignition switch. There is a also a wire pair for the acc only switch for you clock and trip settings to be adjusted. I wired these into the actual ignition switch as the switch is not connected at all when using this system. Your ignition/acc wiring connects to the relay module. I keep the switch locked all the time so no one can turn it on and kill the battery. So I only need the key when switching to acc only. (if your bike does not have this option, you can just tie the wire up and tuck it out of the way.)
As for safety, the fob only powers the bike on, so no worries with it being in your pocket and accidentally pressing the button while riding. Also if you drop it while riding or lay it down after cranking and drive out of range, the bike stays running until you turn it off at the kill switch
As for the security piece, The bike won't crank or even power on without the fob. Once powered on, you operate the bike as normal. There is a 10 sec delay after switching off before the unit resets. This means if you forgot to change to N, or you decide to crank back up right away, you don't need the fob to power back on, just switch and go. However, after 10 sec of being switched off, the unit resets and the fob is again required to power on.
So I finally got around to completing this project for the most part. ie. I got it working. I'll post pics when I can. I ended up removing the tank and adding quick disconnects to the crossover line to avoid draining the tank every time I need to pull it off. Once the tank was off, I had room to pull out the plastic cover under the frame to expose the harnesses to/from the handlebars. That's where the wiring disconnects were hiding. There was not enough wire there to pull the plugs up through the grommet. I had to disconnect from under the frame first and then pull them out to do the work.
There is very little real estate on a Harley to hide extra components, so I improvised by adding a cheap fork bag to house the unit, and blended the wires in with the harness running under the tank console. This is not ideal, but it looks awesome and will work until I engineer a more permanent solution.
ABOUT THE SYSTEM FOR ANYONE INTERESTED
The unit works exactly the same as the keyless systems on the newer bikes, and I believe is made by the same company. The fob can be set to manual (press a button to power on) or automatic (hands-free motion activated..just toggling the kill switch on is more motion than required). You do have to be in range of the bike and have the kill switch turned on for it to work. I have not tested the range yet, but I believe it to be around 20+ feet. It functions as if you leave the kill switch on all the time and use the ignition switch to power the bike on and off. You still crank and kill the engine as normal, but when you turn off the kill switch, it powers off the bike as if you turned off the ignition switch. There is a also a wire pair for the acc only switch for you clock and trip settings to be adjusted. I wired these into the actual ignition switch as the switch is not connected at all when using this system. Your ignition/acc wiring connects to the relay module. I keep the switch locked all the time so no one can turn it on and kill the battery. So I only need the key when switching to acc only. (if your bike does not have this option, you can just tie the wire up and tuck it out of the way.)
As for safety, the fob only powers the bike on, so no worries with it being in your pocket and accidentally pressing the button while riding. Also if you drop it while riding or lay it down after cranking and drive out of range, the bike stays running until you turn it off at the kill switch
As for the security piece, The bike won't crank or even power on without the fob. Once powered on, you operate the bike as normal. There is a 10 sec delay after switching off before the unit resets. This means if you forgot to change to N, or you decide to crank back up right away, you don't need the fob to power back on, just switch and go. However, after 10 sec of being switched off, the unit resets and the fob is again required to power on.
I used "5/16 Fuel Quick Disconnect Kit" from Amazon. Its a little pricey, about $45, but worth it. There are cheaper $20 plastic ones, which probably work fine. You can also the same metal ones in the kit with a hose already connected for around $80 if you need to replace the crossover line all together. A word of advice; either keep the length of the existing line for easy reconnecting, or cut out the exact amount for the new pieces to fit. I cut about an inch or two out and it works fine, but has some tension pushing toward the outsides. It may never cause an issue, but I will fix this next time I remove the tank. Probably this weekend.
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Keyless install 2011 FXDC
