Rear brake clunking
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 300
Likes: 45
From: Calgary
Tried in neutral a few times too. Could not get it to make the clunk. I wasn't able to get into neutral at a higher speed (over 20km/h) but I tried a few times at slower speeds where I'd get it in 1st and it didn't even remotely happen. Now I'm really stumped.
Also for ***** and giggles I taped a rag around my jiffy stand where it contacts the frame to eliminate that as a cause.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 300
Likes: 45
From: Calgary
But my belt is definitely looser than it should be. I can't imagine that would be what's going on here?
Last edited by Cubby89; Aug 28, 2019 at 08:54 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 251
From: Belle River Ontario
Did you align the power train when you put the new mounts in? You have to...other wise your rear wheel can get mis-aligned and cause all kinds of problems....cause your rear wheel is actually attached to your power train.
you have to understand how the Dyna model is put together...it really is unlike anything else out there. Many have explained it but none better then....Tarik(F86)
here are two distinct halves to a Dyna: The front wheel, fork, and frame are one assembly. The rear wheel, swingarm, engine and transmission are a completely separate assembly. The two assemblies are connected to each other purely by the two rubber engine mounts, one in the front of the engine, the other on the back of the transmission. The top link is really just a stabilizer/locater for alignment purposes, and isn't really a structural link between the two halves. Any and all movement incurred by the engine is directly carried through the transmission to the swingarm and the rear wheel. If the engine vibrates in the longitudinal chassis plane, this isn't much of an issue. If it vibrates left to right, the swingarm and rear wheel move left to right. If the engine swings like a pendulum from the top link, the rear tire actually rolls onto it's sidewalls a little bit, back and forth. The purpose of all the different aftermarket stabilizers is to limit lateral engine movement, while allowing enough longitudinal movement to keep unwanted vibration in check. This architecture explains why a Dyna is much more sensitive to all chassis adjustments/issues than some bikes are... Air pressure, wheel bearings, steering bearings, swingarm bearings, and particularly drivetrain alignment... That's why the same outcome can be difficult to diagnose from bike to bike.
The good news is that when properly setup, a Dyna chassis is actually a very good handling platform.
you have to understand how the Dyna model is put together...it really is unlike anything else out there. Many have explained it but none better then....Tarik(F86)
here are two distinct halves to a Dyna: The front wheel, fork, and frame are one assembly. The rear wheel, swingarm, engine and transmission are a completely separate assembly. The two assemblies are connected to each other purely by the two rubber engine mounts, one in the front of the engine, the other on the back of the transmission. The top link is really just a stabilizer/locater for alignment purposes, and isn't really a structural link between the two halves. Any and all movement incurred by the engine is directly carried through the transmission to the swingarm and the rear wheel. If the engine vibrates in the longitudinal chassis plane, this isn't much of an issue. If it vibrates left to right, the swingarm and rear wheel move left to right. If the engine swings like a pendulum from the top link, the rear tire actually rolls onto it's sidewalls a little bit, back and forth. The purpose of all the different aftermarket stabilizers is to limit lateral engine movement, while allowing enough longitudinal movement to keep unwanted vibration in check. This architecture explains why a Dyna is much more sensitive to all chassis adjustments/issues than some bikes are... Air pressure, wheel bearings, steering bearings, swingarm bearings, and particularly drivetrain alignment... That's why the same outcome can be difficult to diagnose from bike to bike.
The good news is that when properly setup, a Dyna chassis is actually a very good handling platform.
Last edited by crusader1xxx; Aug 28, 2019 at 09:50 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 300
Likes: 45
From: Calgary
Did you align the power train when you put the new mounts in? You have to...other wise your rear wheel can get mis-aligned and cause all kinds of problems....cause your rear wheel is actually attached to your power train.
you have to understand how the Dyna model is put together...it really is unlike anything else out there. Many have explained it but none better then....Tarik(F86)
here are two distinct halves to a Dyna: The front wheel, fork, and frame are one assembly. The rear wheel, swingarm, engine and transmission are a completely separate assembly. The two assemblies are connected to each other purely by the two rubber engine mounts, one in the front of the engine, the other on the back of the transmission. The top link is really just a stabilizer/locater for alignment purposes, and isn't really a structural link between the two halves. Any and all movement incurred by the engine is directly carried through the transmission to the swingarm and the rear wheel. If the engine vibrates in the longitudinal chassis plane, this isn't much of an issue. If it vibrates left to right, the swingarm and rear wheel move left to right. If the engine swings like a pendulum from the top link, the rear tire actually rolls onto it's sidewalls a little bit, back and forth. The purpose of all the different aftermarket stabilizers is to limit lateral engine movement, while allowing enough longitudinal movement to keep unwanted vibration in check. This architecture explains why a Dyna is much more sensitive to all chassis adjustments/issues than some bikes are... Air pressure, wheel bearings, steering bearings, swingarm bearings, and particularly drivetrain alignment... That's why the same outcome can be difficult to diagnose from bike to bike.
The good news is that when properly setup, a Dyna chassis is actually a very good handling platform.
you have to understand how the Dyna model is put together...it really is unlike anything else out there. Many have explained it but none better then....Tarik(F86)
here are two distinct halves to a Dyna: The front wheel, fork, and frame are one assembly. The rear wheel, swingarm, engine and transmission are a completely separate assembly. The two assemblies are connected to each other purely by the two rubber engine mounts, one in the front of the engine, the other on the back of the transmission. The top link is really just a stabilizer/locater for alignment purposes, and isn't really a structural link between the two halves. Any and all movement incurred by the engine is directly carried through the transmission to the swingarm and the rear wheel. If the engine vibrates in the longitudinal chassis plane, this isn't much of an issue. If it vibrates left to right, the swingarm and rear wheel move left to right. If the engine swings like a pendulum from the top link, the rear tire actually rolls onto it's sidewalls a little bit, back and forth. The purpose of all the different aftermarket stabilizers is to limit lateral engine movement, while allowing enough longitudinal movement to keep unwanted vibration in check. This architecture explains why a Dyna is much more sensitive to all chassis adjustments/issues than some bikes are... Air pressure, wheel bearings, steering bearings, swingarm bearings, and particularly drivetrain alignment... That's why the same outcome can be difficult to diagnose from bike to bike.
The good news is that when properly setup, a Dyna chassis is actually a very good handling platform.
That's actually really interesting and before I started thinking it was in the tranny I was wondering about the swing arm. Just a thought.
By alignment do you mean loosening the bolts and letting it run a few seconds? I did do that. Haven't done anything else. Should I go through the whole alignment procedure? Think that might help?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 300
Likes: 45
From: Calgary
In the transmission forum someone suggested maybe it was transmission wind up and that with higher mileage it can get clunky. Anyone know anything about that? Nothing to worry about? Maybe start thinking about a tranny rebuild?
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 251
From: Belle River Ontario
Still not high mileage. Power train alignment procedure with inclinometer...look up F86 post on it, he has the best method I have seen so far on doing this....
easiest way way for me to describe it is take the seat off, get the bike level on a flat surface, measure that you are 100% level by putting the inclinometer on the back/cross bone of the frame, zero it out by jacking the bike up or down on one side, I suggest the side stand side, use a small jack under side stand or foot peg...once zero out you know you frame is straight
move to rear wheel and put inclinometer on brake disc...what is your reading? If its zero your 100% aligned. If its not you have to turn the top engine mount in or out to zero It out. Once its zero your now properly aligned.
I usually do this two of three times just to make sure my reading are correct.
easiest way way for me to describe it is take the seat off, get the bike level on a flat surface, measure that you are 100% level by putting the inclinometer on the back/cross bone of the frame, zero it out by jacking the bike up or down on one side, I suggest the side stand side, use a small jack under side stand or foot peg...once zero out you know you frame is straight
move to rear wheel and put inclinometer on brake disc...what is your reading? If its zero your 100% aligned. If its not you have to turn the top engine mount in or out to zero It out. Once its zero your now properly aligned.
I usually do this two of three times just to make sure my reading are correct.
Last edited by crusader1xxx; Aug 29, 2019 at 11:35 PM.
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