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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I say sputhe front and back, same princible as the true track just alittle better looking up front
I am one of the few that hated the predator mount, could not wait to get that thing off, but I am in the tiny minority, most people like it, to me its a trotline weight at best
The more I think about it, the more I think the shift rearward is responsible for the failure of the front mount. Shimming it may give it a new lease on life, but doesn't address the real problem.
I'm thinking the design of the Predator may be more resistant to that force, but for how long?
have had the predator for 30k miles, while do not notice a vibration difference ( although vibration was never an issue for me), I like the stabilizer link it uses and the bike handles great with this set up and factory rear mount.
I say sputhe front and back, same princible as the true track just alittle better looking up front
I am one of the few that hated the predator mount, could not wait to get that thing off, but I am in the tiny minority, most people like it, to me its a trotline weight at best
I suspect this is probably the best overall solution at the moment. Just have to be OK with the bulk of the stabilizers and be careful keeping the front mount clean.
The Kinetic mounts may just be the silver bullet but I feel the reviews are still a bit too sparse. Can't wait til F86 gets a chance to to really wring out his and give us another excellently written review.
Last edited by cggorman; Oct 22, 2019 at 11:33 AM.
Before going down the path of adding stabilizers, have you put on new motor mounts, fitted them, have gone thru the rest of your suspension, checked neck and swingarm bearings, and aligned everything before determining you "need" stabilizers. I only say this because I just spent a boatload of money on my father's 1998 FLH (I know a different model) to find out it was an alignment issue that was causing a high speed wobble. I am talking about going from a 0.0625" adjustment tolerance to 0.003", and finally the wobble went away. Improved rear shocks and front end suspension would be way up on the list before getting to stabilizers, IMO. The stabilizers will help to improve the feel of the bike at high speeds (85+) at the expense of increased vibration, if everything is set-up correctly.
Looking at your previous posts, it looks like you have a '08 Dyna. Is this correct? What have you done to it so far?
I say sputhe front and back, same princible as the true track just alittle better looking up front
I am one of the few that hated the predator mount, could not wait to get that thing off, but I am in the tiny minority, most people like it, to me its a trotline weight at best
X2. I went with Sputhe over TrueTrack due to it appearing more "factory" on the bike. I would also say to get the Custom Cycle Engineering Adjustable Mount to allow you to get everything perfectly aligned, if you are going this far.
The Kinetic mounts may just be the silver bullet but I feel the reviews are still a bit too sparse. Can't wait til F86 gets a chance to to really wring out his and give us another excellently written review.
Ha, thanks Chris... Now I feel a ton of pressure to get this done. And to do so without disappointing you!!!! Maybe I'll need a production crew to help with my next "review!"
Ha, thanks Chris... Now I feel a ton of pressure to get this done. And to do so without disappointing you!!!! Maybe I'll need a production crew to help with my next "review!"
Not at all! Do it your way in your time and it'll be perfect.
Now that's an interesting one that I like. It will also adjust for the "shimming" that's been brought up. It's been discussed before but for anyone that hasn't read it....apparently the front mount is prone to breaking because it's under a lot of stress due to the fact that the engine sits further back than the mount reaches. So when you tighten the bolts and draw the two together this creates the stress on the rubber and hence why it fails. So as long as this mount sits deep enough into the metal bracket it should make the mount more of a floater which should absorb vibrations better as well....hopefully.
Last edited by Monteman1971; Oct 24, 2019 at 08:54 AM.
If those two parts are not bonded together then the whole stress of keeping the power train from moving backwards and forwards is taken by the rear mount. Acceleration pushes the power train forward and braking and the rear springs push it back. With the stock front mount, some of that force is counteracted by the front mount. Since the front mount is installed on an angle, the result is the front of the power train moves back and down over time. When the rubber of the mount contacts the bracket attached to the engine you get engine vibration transmitted to the frame. Mine was severe enough that the mount had started to wear away some of the metal bracket.
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