I've been using the ones from O'Reilly's and haven't had any problems. My first "Harley Davidson" battery lasted about four months and I always have my bike plugged into a Battery Tender when I'm not riding, seems to be whatever battery you get it is hit or miss on getting a good one.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/
Super Start Power Sport Battery
Part Number: ETX20L
Warranty: 6 months
Price: $104.99
Core: $10.00
Total: $ 114.99

https://www.autozone.com/
Duralast Gold AGM Power Sport Battery
Part Number: ETX20L
Warranty: 3 months
Price: $104.99
Core: $10.00
Total: $ 114.99

 

The new battery may be a good thing. But like said above a couple of times, did you ever check the the output of your charging system to make sure it's working? If it's not, any battery, new or not will eventially fail.

 

I don't know, if you're getting a trouble light while the bike's running that sounds like a charging issue to me. My bike had similar symptoms, put the meter on it and was producing only 11.5 volts IIRC. Checked the stator and one of the windings was fried, replaced it, good to go.

 

It is a good idea to check the charging system just to make sure. https://www.jpcycles.com/counterstee...harging-system
It may just be that the running the battery dead with the blinkers killed a cell though so it intermittently starts.

 

Why is it always something wrong with a bike and most are looking for the cheep fix, battery goes dead check it out if it wont hold a charge buy a new one. Or you can park it under a tree leave there for 10 hours and it will fix it self.

 

exactly what happen with my 1 year old truck battery. Battery test was good, alternator charging system test good, charging system with everything on tested good. Every now and then it would barley start. Most of the time it would fire right up. Chalked it up to a bad cell.

 

Well a cheap fix would be great, if it was that. I mean who wouldnt prefer a cheap fix over an expensive one? But I'll just roll w the punches, if it's something that's going to cost some service and cash I will just have to do that.
I havent checked the output charge yet. I just took my battery in today to ne charged. So my battery is in my home town. I have an appointment 30 minutes away for my baby. By the time i get back in town it will be charged. So I will get it tested to see if the battery is any good or not not and i will go from there. But for anyone who doesnt know autzone will charge your battery for free and test it.

So i did read some reviews on the auto zone batteries. The reviews are not very good! The guys in autozone swear by them though. So its a confliction for me. I still have to christmas shop. I think i will just buy one at sn auto store and hope for the best. If it doesnt last then at least it saves me some cash for christmas. If its even a bad battery.
the connections on the battery looked clean and good. A bad cell, that sounds like a possibility. If the battery is good and charging is good ill chalk it up to that. Only reason i put the hazards on was because i was on a narrow road up a hill w a blind spot for cars coming on a bend. It was the worst case senario. But still even then i didnt think itd drain the battery. But then again i never had to use my hazards before.

 

The guy’s in autozone swear by them? Your killing me! Lol!

 

Let me see, Autozone is going to charge the battery, then test it, then sell you a new one? What could go wrong!

If it's dead, it should be on the charger for at least 4-5 hours, preferably longer. If it's a 20 a-h battery you need 6 amps for more than 3 hours, or 2 amps for 10 hours (better). If you fast charge it you could end up with a bad battery even if you didn't start with one.

A battery with a bad cell will test bad 99% of the time. The only exception is if there's an intermittent mechanical problem with an internal connection. So, if you charge the battery and it tests good you have to look elsewhere.

You should be able to run the 4 ways for at least an hour or two and still have enough left to start the bike.

If you want a cheap battery, try Walmart.

 

Here's the real bad news a bad battery can kill the regulator and the alternator . A bad alternator can kill a regulator and battery. A bad regulator will kill a battery and alternator. A thorough charging test with a fully charged battery is needed to see what's going on. In the DIY electrical section is a thread for checking the charging system. The multimeter is important in all of this. If you have the time (overnight or a couple of days) order the battery through Lowes. Check with a local indy shop, maybe they sell batteries. If you get a battery with the little washers be sure to use those, if the posts aren't flush with the side of the case.. Also charge that new battery, get a Deltran Jr. from Batteries plus for about $30-$40 and use it.