Throttle Response Problem
My 1995 Harley Dyna-Glide Convertible has always been very cold blooded. She needs to be hot to run without hesitation coming off idle. I have not been able to figure out why.
Is this some adjustment or a carb problem?
Is this some adjustment or a carb problem?
I can't speak to anything but my own bike, but I suspect that's just how Harleys are. Mine is very different when it's cold, versus when it's fully warmed up. By different I mean the performance appears to be lacking, and by fully warmed up I mean a full 30 mins or so of riding. The days I burn up the highway to get away from the urban areas seems to warm it up faster.
I don't fully understand this, but here's my attempt at an explanation. Whenever energy is converted to a new type - for example, going from the potential chemical energy in the fuel, to the kinetic enery of a moving engine - there is always energy lost due to the inefficiencies inherent in this conversion. This lost energy does not go into the work being done, but instead is lost as heat. Materials have something called a 'specific heat capacity' which describes how much heat energy they can absorb before being 'full'. During this 30 minute period when the engine is 'cold', the aluminum and other metals are 'stealing' energy from the work being done, and storing it as heat. Once the engine is full of heat, it no longer can steal energy from the work being done, which allows more of the stored chemical energy in the fuel to be used to push that piston and ultimately drive the rear wheel.
When the bike is cold, it's losing power to heat the engine itself. Once the engine is full of heat, this loss of energy stops, and the full potential of the fuel is available for the engine to do work with. It then is able to do more work.
I don't fully understand this, but here's my attempt at an explanation. Whenever energy is converted to a new type - for example, going from the potential chemical energy in the fuel, to the kinetic enery of a moving engine - there is always energy lost due to the inefficiencies inherent in this conversion. This lost energy does not go into the work being done, but instead is lost as heat. Materials have something called a 'specific heat capacity' which describes how much heat energy they can absorb before being 'full'. During this 30 minute period when the engine is 'cold', the aluminum and other metals are 'stealing' energy from the work being done, and storing it as heat. Once the engine is full of heat, it no longer can steal energy from the work being done, which allows more of the stored chemical energy in the fuel to be used to push that piston and ultimately drive the rear wheel.
When the bike is cold, it's losing power to heat the engine itself. Once the engine is full of heat, this loss of energy stops, and the full potential of the fuel is available for the engine to do work with. It then is able to do more work.
Carbs are cold blooded, When you start a cold engine you are probably pulling the enrichener all the way out, when you start riding away push in the **** half to three quarter in in. Then after about a mile or two all the way in.Look up nightrider.com and search the side bar, tuning the carb, some good info on that site.
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