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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
May actually be an issue with the not-so-automatic primary chain tensioner. The stock tensioner takes up the slack when the engine heats up the primary case and the chain expands. But I think what happens is that when you stop for gas, the primary cools down pretty quick and the chain shrinks back up - but the tensioner doesn't let go quickly enough. So it's wrenching the ring gear - along with the entire clutch pack and transmission shaft inward toward the inner primary. See attached picture of my inner primary, and note the scratch just inside my ring gear running from about 7 o'Clock to almost 9 o'clock. I think that if you're hearing the noise during a warm startup it could be the stock tensioner. If you're hearing it on the road when you're really getting on the throttle, then likely the compensator. I did both bakers and it's been quiet as a mouse since a year ago last spring. So that's 13/14 months, and about 2,500 miles. ALSO - if you need to change your primary drain plug, make sure it's for a Dyna - the magnets on the others are longer and will grind against the ring-gear. Let me know if any other finding out there. Ride safe - johnD
In the manual ones, there is about 3/4 free play. Each step tighter almost 1/4" on the step block. Mine has been moved only one time in 50K. Mine does have some uneven chain wear (normal) so it varies from 1/2-3/4 play.
On your manual one, the steps are smaller. It will only advance so far. It's pretty full-proof. However, if you had an extremely worn uneven chain, it could jump at the loosest and be a little snug at the tightest. Probably rare. Before you condemn it, check play at a bunch of increments of the chain. Now study the design. In the bottom of that tensioner is two coil springs. That firs amount of play is the freeplay which is quite small. The rest is tensioned by those too springs which is about a 1/4" more play. That is why it's quite but those two little springs are nothing to the chain to hinder rollers rolling and so tight to hinder oil under rollers. Push hard with your thumbs and you will see the total free play. Most I have seen are at the minimum setting for the manual ones.
Shift clunk is because of oil wet clutch design dragging from oil sticking. That is also what turns cluster transmission between gear. That clunk in gear is that heavy cluster stopping. In netural and holding clutch in, rock bike back and fort to break clutch disk apart. Shif into 1 and quite often it won't clunk. In fact, do it enough and it may stop so good, it does not go in sice thoes dogs must line up with the pockets. Not like a syncro spline car transmssion with lots of engagements ever few degrees.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 16, 2020 at 04:55 PM.
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