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I recently installed an FP3 on my '12 Super Glide. I installed the tune for the Stage 1 components I have, and it runs great now. Will I gain much by running the auto-tune? Or should I leave well enough alone?
A really good "canned" tune (what you have now,) should get you 60-70% of optimum.
An "auto-tune" should yield about "75-80%" of optimum.
A real dyno tune, by a competent tech, should get you 95-98% of optimum. The only variable here is fuel quality.
One other thing...if you're going to go to the expense of "auto-tune OR dyno tune" use either Shell V-Power or Chevron Supreme only, when tuning.
If you're gonna spend $500 to get a decent tune, it makes no sense to run crap fuel. Especially when the difference in cost isn't a dollar for a whole tank...
EDIT~ It should go without saying, to already have a new/clean air cleaner and new spark plugs (NGK.)
Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; Sep 17, 2020 at 05:37 PM.
My bike was running fine after I installed my Fp3 , but a few auto tunes and it was even better.
Just do auto tune, if you don’t like it, you still have the 1 tune in your memory.
So you can always go back.
A really good "canned" tune (what you have now,) should get you 60-70% of optimum.
An "auto-tune" should yield about "75-80%" of optimum.
A real dyno tune, by a competent tech, should get you 95-98% of optimum. The only variable here is fuel quality.
One other thing...if you're going to go to the expense of "auto-tune OR dyno tune" use either Shell V-Power or Chevron Supreme only, when tuning.
If you're gonna spend $500 to get a decent tune, it makes no sense to run crap fuel. Especially when the difference in cost isn't a dollar for a whole tank...
EDIT~ It should go without saying, to already have a new/clean air cleaner and new spark plugs (NGK.)
I'm curious about your statement of always using high octane when tuning. Wouldn't it be best to tune it with the fuel that is always used? What benefit is there tuning it with 98 octane if you run it on 91 octane?
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