Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 916
Likes: 3
From: Mauldin, SC
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
ORIGINAL: badbs101
Sounds great. Where is the advertisement you speak of?
Sounds great. Where is the advertisement you speak of?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V-Thu...spagenameZWD1V
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...rand=velvaride
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
I was going to post a thread asking about Decel Vibrations in the front end for speeds of about 35 MPH down to about 10-15 MPH. During braking, downshifting or even just letting off the throttle.
Front end seemed loose, I could move it about 1/2" back and forth while riding. Dealer said it was loose andtightened it up. Now that was at 400 miles on bike, kinda sad, bike is new, 2007 FXD.
But still have the decel vibrations at the above speeds mentioned.
My question is, does this procedure help out with the Decel vibrations, as I don't have the other mirror vibrations and stuff? Or is the Decel vibration a normal Harley thing? (This is my first Harley)
I am fairly mechanically inclined, fabrication of parts is my past time, motorwork is a "by the book" thing for me. After reading about dealer techs, I'm starting to wonder if I should let them do my 1000 mile service next week.
Front end seemed loose, I could move it about 1/2" back and forth while riding. Dealer said it was loose andtightened it up. Now that was at 400 miles on bike, kinda sad, bike is new, 2007 FXD.
But still have the decel vibrations at the above speeds mentioned.
My question is, does this procedure help out with the Decel vibrations, as I don't have the other mirror vibrations and stuff? Or is the Decel vibration a normal Harley thing? (This is my first Harley)
I am fairly mechanically inclined, fabrication of parts is my past time, motorwork is a "by the book" thing for me. After reading about dealer techs, I'm starting to wonder if I should let them do my 1000 mile service next week.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
I found this fix posted on v-twinforum a while ago. It seems to have helped out with quite a few people. Cheap fix and easy to do if you know how to turn a wrench.
As for the "infamous post #30" This came off of another forum so you might want to check that site if you want to read the whole thread. Basically this is a way you can support the motor without the use of a jack while you are putting in shims.
Anyway here is post #30
"Way to go, fine accomplishment! Couldn't you get 2 - 3/8" x 3" longer bolts, remove lower OEM bolt, and install one of the longer bolts to hold engine, then remove the top bolt, check to see if your front motor mount pulls away from the frame mount. If it does have a gap, cut and drill shim stock to fit gap, and install in top hole with longer bolt, then swing the shim stock down to fit lower bolt hole, install correct length final assembly bolt with locktite, then install the final assembly top bolt same as bottom bolt, and torque to specs. As long as you have one bolt holding the engine you wouldn't need another body, or jack...!??Correct?
We use to do stuff like this as a time saver (like swapping bolts one at a time) so you didn't have to support the component."
As for the "infamous post #30" This came off of another forum so you might want to check that site if you want to read the whole thread. Basically this is a way you can support the motor without the use of a jack while you are putting in shims.
Anyway here is post #30
"Way to go, fine accomplishment! Couldn't you get 2 - 3/8" x 3" longer bolts, remove lower OEM bolt, and install one of the longer bolts to hold engine, then remove the top bolt, check to see if your front motor mount pulls away from the frame mount. If it does have a gap, cut and drill shim stock to fit gap, and install in top hole with longer bolt, then swing the shim stock down to fit lower bolt hole, install correct length final assembly bolt with locktite, then install the final assembly top bolt same as bottom bolt, and torque to specs. As long as you have one bolt holding the engine you wouldn't need another body, or jack...!??Correct?
We use to do stuff like this as a time saver (like swapping bolts one at a time) so you didn't have to support the component."
Stage I
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
Hey all, I've been reading some of the vibration posts on this forum and I will try everything I have learned. I also heard about Harley Service bulletin M1185 about replacing the 8 degree injectors with 25 degree injectors. I just went through hell with my dealer,(actually 2 dealers) to try and have this upgrade done. They would not do it and even had a MOCO tech take the bike for a ride and said he could not duplicate the problem. They also told me that due to the dyna operating on a closed loop EFI system that it was not eligible for the upgrade. What the F.... It doesn't say that in the bulletin. so here I am with a brand new bike that sputters on take off, overheats, loses a cylinder once it gets hot and vibrates like a cement mixer. Can anyone help me out? 2006 superglide with 8 degree injectors.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
Thanks Hufdvr, thats the answer I was looking for!
I've got to be honest here. I'm nota young guy, have bought many new vehicles, both bikes and cages, and always made modifications to brand new vehicles, no big deal. But never, have I had to make so many repairs to a new vehicle, while the dealer tells me it's normal (problems and vibrations),and we all know it's not!
Luckily for me, I enjoy tinkering and making parts and modifications, but what about the guy (or gal) who wants to just buy and ride?
While this project is one of many, and I thank everyone for the info, I will be doing this on the next rainy day, probably before starting another "ACME" project, and finishing the ones on the shop tables.
Don't worry, I'll catch that Road Runner yet....
I've got to be honest here. I'm nota young guy, have bought many new vehicles, both bikes and cages, and always made modifications to brand new vehicles, no big deal. But never, have I had to make so many repairs to a new vehicle, while the dealer tells me it's normal (problems and vibrations),and we all know it's not!
Luckily for me, I enjoy tinkering and making parts and modifications, but what about the guy (or gal) who wants to just buy and ride?
While this project is one of many, and I thank everyone for the info, I will be doing this on the next rainy day, probably before starting another "ACME" project, and finishing the ones on the shop tables.
Don't worry, I'll catch that Road Runner yet....
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,525
Likes: 4
From: Johnson City TN U.S.A.
RE: Vibration problem solved! Thanks meatballs!!
ORIGINAL: meatballs
Anyway here is post #30
"Way to go, fine accomplishment! Couldn't you get 2 - 3/8" x 3" longer bolts, remove lower OEM bolt, and install one of the longer bolts to hold engine, then remove the top bolt, check to see if your front motor mount pulls away from the frame mount. If it does have a gap, cut and drill shim stock to fit gap, and install in top hole with longer bolt, then swing the shim stock down to fit lower bolt hole, install correct length final assembly bolt with locktite, then install the final assembly top bolt same as bottom bolt, and torque to specs. As long as you have one bolt holding the engine you wouldn't need another body, or jack...!??Correct?
We use to do stuff like this as a time saver (like swapping bolts one at a time) so you didn't have to support the component."
Anyway here is post #30
"Way to go, fine accomplishment! Couldn't you get 2 - 3/8" x 3" longer bolts, remove lower OEM bolt, and install one of the longer bolts to hold engine, then remove the top bolt, check to see if your front motor mount pulls away from the frame mount. If it does have a gap, cut and drill shim stock to fit gap, and install in top hole with longer bolt, then swing the shim stock down to fit lower bolt hole, install correct length final assembly bolt with locktite, then install the final assembly top bolt same as bottom bolt, and torque to specs. As long as you have one bolt holding the engine you wouldn't need another body, or jack...!??Correct?
We use to do stuff like this as a time saver (like swapping bolts one at a time) so you didn't have to support the component."
...Thanks for re-posting that bro, it's a good tip.
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