Seriously - I did not think this would work. I know Dynas vibrate. Some more than others. Mine got so bad that I could not see at all out my mirrors. From the factory, my right one was good, and my left one was useless. At 1300 miles, the vibration was so bad I had to pull in the clutch to see out of them. I read the below thread and what do ya know? GONE!! Better than the factory, even my left mirror works! Before, even my hands tingled after 30 min of riding.

Yes, the bars and front tire vibrate still at idol - giving the dyna that bad a$$ stance - but the ride is so much better, and again... I can see out my mirrors better than the factory. Hard to believe ONLY two washers on each bolt (4 total) cured all this. Just thought I'd share my experience with others. Yes, it still vibrates like a Dyna should and you will never get rid of it. I know this has been brought up many times and I am not trying to beat a dead horse, but it worked, thanks to the "search" on this forum. Anyway, read the below post I cut and pasted from "meatballs" (thanks bro).....

Or go to the link, I am all about giving credit to whoever did this!! https://www.hdforums.com/m_401381/tm.htm

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This was posted on v-twinforum by 84FXRP. When I try to link to the thread part of the URL is deleted.

"Sorry for the long post, but I have cured my Dyna’s vibration problem for about $10 in materials and I thought others might benefit from my approach.

I have a 2005 FXDI with a HD 95 inch Stage I kit.

Like some others on the Forum, my bike had, what I consider, excessive engine vibration transmitted to the handlebar, foot pegs, and seat. The vibration was especially evident below 3000 rpm. At idle, the handlebars jumped around excessively.

I followed the Service Manual procedure for vehicle alignment in an attempt to reduce the vibration. Alignment includes loosening (but NOT removing) ALL the motor mount attachment bolts, and then running the motor for 5 seconds during which allow the mounts to align themselves to the frame. The motor mount attachment bolts are then retorqued to spec. The procedure helped a little, but did not cure the problem. I also looked at other changes that might address the vibration problem such as “Bar Snake”, different length handlebars, handlebar mount bushings, etc. All these are Band-Aids on the fundamental problem of too much vibration.

A few weeks later I was thinking about the motor mounts and the alignment procedure and was struck by the cause/cure of the vibration problem. Any elastic motor mount, like the Dyna’s, has a limit to how much vibration it can absorb. Engine movement in excess of this limit is transmitted through the frame to the handlebars, foot pegs, seat, etc as vibration.

What struck me was that when I did the alignment procedure and the mounting bolts were LOOSE, there was a gap between the mount and the frame. Tightening the mounting bolts caused my front motor mount to be PULLED forward to the frame as the mounting bolts were tightened. I noticed that when the mounting bolts were torqued, the frame was also deflected somewhat.

THE ELASTIC TRAVEL OF MY MOTOR MOUNTS WAS LARGELY USED UP JUST BY BOLTING THE MOTOR MOUNT TO THE FRAME.

Any movement of the motor would not be absorbed by the mount – the elasticity of the mount is already used up before the motor is even started. Hence any engine movement is transmitted to the frame and is felt as a vibration. This would also explain premature failure of Dyna motor mounts – they are under stress to begin with.

My solution was to shim the gap between the UNSTRESSED front motor mount and the frame. THE ENTIRE INHERENT ELASTICITY OF THE MOUNTS IS NOW AVAILABLE TO ABSORB ENGINE MOTION. MY VIBRATION PROBLEM WAS GONE!

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interesting info rocket..thanks for the post

 

that was well done mate.

 

D'oh and TimDynabob or whatever his handle was just missed this!!! See it pays to stay! Well done Rocket

 

Mine had a front mount pre-load problem causing a grounding out vibration. When I suspended the engine in the correct position I had a .150in gap. So I made a shim in the mill out of a piece of aluminum to fit the gap, went to the hardware store and picked up two 1/4" longer grade 8 allen cap bolts (needed a little longer due to the oil cooler bracket anyway). Vibration gone. Told the service dudes at the dealer about my fix and they stood there like a deer in the headlights. One piped up about "I just should'a loosen da bolts and run the engine".

On another note, the SERT I got from HD was bad from stock, the new replacementcame in today and worked just like it was advertised. Mapped it with a 67 and it made a big change for the good.

Can't wait for something else to foul up, so I can fix it under warranty.....my warranty.

Well I found another thing to fix!
Did a mod to the SEmufflers and noticed if you loosen the mounting bolts and clamps then start the engine, the whole mess just kind settles into it's self. Then torque the clamps and nuts, it took care of some more little buzzing vibration. It's getting better one step at a time...soon it will be as vibration free as my Road King ;-)

 

I'm gonna have to try that!

 

I will have to try also as my mirrors are a little shaky while ridung too!!!

Thanks,

Larry

 

I had this same problem some time ago and tried just about everything under the sun including this, and well it worked a bit, but it ended up working alot better when I replaced the lower front motor mount, if you can find one. World of difference. There have been alot of ideas talked about and to be honest, they all seem to work in one way or another, but damI just wished Harley would come out and do something about it.

 

I originally posted the fix with the pictures showing how to do this, and finally got around to doing it myself last weekend.

I used 3 shims and longer bolts (Home Depot/Lowe's has the allen head Grade-8's), and my vibration problem is history. The bike is so much smoother and on decel I don't have the shakes that I used to. Now just a little bit of shaking that Harleys are known for at idle.

I also added a Velva-Ride stabilizer link that has a poly-urathane bushing in it. The stock stabilizer is all metal with no bushing, so you still have metal-to-metal contact on top of the motor. Adding it eliminates all metal-to-metal contact on the motor and frame and now I am very happy with the bike.

The company that I bought the stabilizer link from sent me two by mistake, and my spare is on Flea Bay now. Just search for Harley Engine Stabilizer and you should see it. They list for $99.95.

 

Very well stated. I aslo like follow ups, so many qustions get posted and its nice to see one with a wrap up. Ride safe!