FXDX is killing batteries
Stator- none of the three coils are grounded to body, and resistance between coils is around .2 OHM, so that checks out, and it puts out 23 volts AC at idle ( I didnt rev it to check further)
I also did the checks of the reg, and it outputs 14.3 volts at any RPM, and with the positive meter lead on each AC output wire, and the negative lead on each battery charge wire, the meter reads .5 volts and an infinite reading with the leads reversed.
What Im guessing, and hoping, is that the regulator is intermittently overloading the battery to 16 volts, causing the shutoff and burning up the battery?
The battery isnt smoking or exploding of course.
What should I do? Reg and stator checked out. Replace reg and see if problem goes away?So, do I need to replace stator and reg? Or maybe just reg?
Is it possible for these to check out fine with the specified tests, but for the stator to have a coil momentarily ground out, or for the reg to momentarily overload the system as I suspect? Weighing my options.
I actually rode around with a multimeter hooked up to my tender plug and in a magnetic tank bag to see if I could catch what the voltage was doing during the malfunction, but it did not malfunction during the time I had the meter hooked up, unfortunately. If it did spike to 16 volts dc, how long does that take to frag the battery? Would it basically shut the bike off and make the gauges and lights go apeshit right away or?
The only code I ever get to pull was "Low voltage to ECM", which makes sense since the battery was toast.
I borrowed a reg from a friend, and rode around Friday and last night with no issues.
Under my seat, I found that the previous owner had some damage to the tender wires, so I cut em and soldered and put heat shrink over that. Im just trying to find out what is shorting out to cause this stuff. The two batteries literally were fragged. Ive checked all kinds of connections and cleaned and retightened every connection as well. SO far so good? Just cannot go on a 1000 mile trip and have to end up having someone get my junk off the side of the road. Id get a real load of **** over that.
Pretty much the only way to destroy a battery in short order without some pretty obvious side effects (like smoke and fire) is to consistently over charge it.
They don't come back from bringing them much below 7 bolts if you leave key on . (Using kill switch on bars and forgetting)
Test voltage is 2000. Don't want to hear nothing else. Should be around 14. No more then 16 , no less the 13.
No AC. If you see AC at test , regulator is done.
If it over voltages, it would throw a code. You have a loose connection. And that will tend to let regulator go high because it thinks voltage is low. Probably in ignition switch or wires from battery to starter and ground. Check wire and then to connection with bolt and then ohm with one lead off battery. Could be corrosion in crimps.
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Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 3, 2021 at 01:23 PM.
1. If you are trying to recover a battery with a charger/maintainer, don't. Get a charger that will do better than an amp. 2 prefered.
2. Check the condition of the main circuit breaker. Any corrosion on the terminals or it looks like they are taking heat, replace the breaker and the terminals on the wires going to the breaker.
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1. If you are trying to recover a battery with a charger/maintainer, don't. Get a charger that will do better than an amp. 2 prefered.
2. Check the condition of the main circuit breaker. Any corrosion on the terminals or it looks like they are taking heat, replace the breaker and the terminals on the wires going to the breaker.
The batteries in question were checked a a professional battery shop. Tests revealed ****ed batteries.













