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FXDX is killing batteries

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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 12:41 PM
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Default FXDX is killing batteries

So, my bike is now a battery murderer. What happens is, it will shut off while riding, sometimes, the gauges will go apeshit first or during, then, it wont start for a few mins, and then starts, and the next day, the battery will be toast- and by toast, I mean it will charge to 12 volts on a tender charger, but has no *** to start the bike and a load test reveals a smoked battery. I have done all the proper checks of the stator and the regulator.
Stator- none of the three coils are grounded to body, and resistance between coils is around .2 OHM, so that checks out, and it puts out 23 volts AC at idle ( I didnt rev it to check further)
I also did the checks of the reg, and it outputs 14.3 volts at any RPM, and with the positive meter lead on each AC output wire, and the negative lead on each battery charge wire, the meter reads .5 volts and an infinite reading with the leads reversed.
What Im guessing, and hoping, is that the regulator is intermittently overloading the battery to 16 volts, causing the shutoff and burning up the battery?
The battery isnt smoking or exploding of course.
What should I do? Reg and stator checked out. Replace reg and see if problem goes away?So, do I need to replace stator and reg? Or maybe just reg?
Is it possible for these to check out fine with the specified tests, but for the stator to have a coil momentarily ground out, or for the reg to momentarily overload the system as I suspect? Weighing my options.
I actually rode around with a multimeter hooked up to my tender plug and in a magnetic tank bag to see if I could catch what the voltage was doing during the malfunction, but it did not malfunction during the time I had the meter hooked up, unfortunately. If it did spike to 16 volts dc, how long does that take to frag the battery? Would it basically shut the bike off and make the gauges and lights go apeshit right away or?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2021 | 09:44 PM
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Ya never say how old is the battery or if you had it load tested at a local auto parts store. Also never said what the battery manufacturer was. Did you run an ERROR CODE diagnostic scan? Regulators or stators don't go bad when they feel like it just to screw with ya. 12 volts on the battery charger. OK, what is the battery voltage right after ya take it off the charger? Should be more then 12 vdc.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 12:12 PM
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I apologize. First battery was a Batteries Plus battery. After the first incident, the battery charged to 12 volts on charger, or, rather, my charger went green to tell me it was done charging, but a load test at the battery shop revealed it to be dead. Same thing happened with the Die hard battery. The BP battery was just a few months old, the Die hard just a few weeks.
The only code I ever get to pull was "Low voltage to ECM", which makes sense since the battery was toast.
I borrowed a reg from a friend, and rode around Friday and last night with no issues.
Under my seat, I found that the previous owner had some damage to the tender wires, so I cut em and soldered and put heat shrink over that. Im just trying to find out what is shorting out to cause this stuff. The two batteries literally were fragged. Ive checked all kinds of connections and cleaned and retightened every connection as well. SO far so good? Just cannot go on a 1000 mile trip and have to end up having someone get my junk off the side of the road. Id get a real load of **** over that.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 12:22 PM
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What exactly is a “fragged” battery?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
What exactly is a “fragged” battery?
Yeah, skip all the colorful language and just give us facts.

Pretty much the only way to destroy a battery in short order without some pretty obvious side effects (like smoke and fire) is to consistently over charge it.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 01:14 PM
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Start over. A good charged battery is 12.7 or so. 12.3 is dead. It should be above 9.6 cranking. If not, it's worn out.
They don't come back from bringing them much below 7 bolts if you leave key on . (Using kill switch on bars and forgetting)

Test voltage is 2000. Don't want to hear nothing else. Should be around 14. No more then 16 , no less the 13.

No AC. If you see AC at test , regulator is done.

If it over voltages, it would throw a code. You have a loose connection. And that will tend to let regulator go high because it thinks voltage is low. Probably in ignition switch or wires from battery to starter and ground. Check wire and then to connection with bolt and then ohm with one lead off battery. Could be corrosion in crimps.

Report back

Also add a signature on year, model and all the letters.

Welcome from North Beach, FL., USA!

Just in case you have not done both of these two important items!

Be sure to add an Avatar of your favorite shot in the USER set up for the small picture others will see in the top left corner of your post with your USER name.

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Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 3, 2021 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 06:42 PM
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Couple things.

1. If you are trying to recover a battery with a charger/maintainer, don't. Get a charger that will do better than an amp. 2 prefered.

2. Check the condition of the main circuit breaker. Any corrosion on the terminals or it looks like they are taking heat, replace the breaker and the terminals on the wires going to the breaker.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 11:51 PM
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Ride more often and longer. That is the only thing I’ve found that makes motorcycle batteries last longer.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2021 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
What exactly is a “fragged” battery?
As in dead, trash, no good, will not ever function properly again.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2021 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Couple things.

1. If you are trying to recover a battery with a charger/maintainer, don't. Get a charger that will do better than an amp. 2 prefered.

2. Check the condition of the main circuit breaker. Any corrosion on the terminals or it looks like they are taking heat, replace the breaker and the terminals on the wires going to the breaker.
My terminal connections are all clean and tight. I have also checked the main and other terminals for corrosion as well.
The batteries in question were checked a a professional battery shop. Tests revealed ****ed batteries.
 
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