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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
So with 14,000 miles on my 06 Dyna, I decided it's time for some more pep. I picked up some Branch heads and 10.5:1 pistons, Andrews TW60 cams, roller rockers and adjustable pushrods. She's going back together this weekend. I'll post some pics of the heads and pistons when I get a chance, they are really a work of art. My concern is with the break-in period. Obviously, I need to adjust the fuel map so I'm not running too lean, but there are no maps for06 95" Dynas on the power commander web site. I spoke with a tech at DynoJet, he suggested a map for an 06 softail, but was unsure if it would work with the Dyna ECU. I opened the map and it only has 1 fuel table and 1 ignition table, where the maps for our Dynas have two each.
I also spoke with some local dyno tuners. One told me he could do a preliminary map for the break in period, where he wouldn't rev the engine over 4000 RPM. Then I could take it back for a full map after 500 miles. I understand that this is thetraditional method, and is what I expected. Another told me he could break in the engine on the dyno in 1/2 hour, then do a full map. He claimed breaking in the engine this waywould result in an additional 3-4 horsepower. It sounds too good to be true, which always makes me wary. Has anybody used this method? What are the pros/cons?
I just did a similar build, with about 9.7:1, andrews 37h cams, and ported heads (stock sized valves). I currently have the PCIII, and am ditching it for the Race Tuner as soon as money allows. The Race Tuner lets you re-map the ecm, and allows the 02 sensors to do their job, the powercommander just fights the ecm, and renders the 02 sensors useless.
Every dyno shop I've been to has told me the same thing. Second, if you put the motor together with enough piston to bore clearance, and have enough ring gap, there shouldnt be much of a break in period. The reason we break in automotive engines the way we do is not to seat rings, modern honing tecniques plateu hone the cylinders so moly rings should seat on their own in a mile or so. We break them in because they have flat tappet camshafts which need to wear in. Since harleys have roller cams, and I assume you are using roller
rockers with that much camshaft, it should not need to break in.
I've broken in a 110" kit with cams and 11.25 : 1 pistons on a Dyno with no problems. It was a Yamaha motor however but still air cooled. I don't think it's a issue and I have heard the same claims of additional HP.
I'd try a map for the 07 Dynas with the bigger motor or just increase the trim pots on the PCIII.
I plan on doing a similar build down the road. I have decided on using the Terminal Velocity II for a fuel management system which self adjusts using O2 sensors. No tuning required. Gives more flexability for future modifications. I've heard good things about this unit. Expensive though!
I would do the Dyno brake-in it works well. However it took 700 to 800 miles to set my rings.
that was daily riding back and forth to work for acoulpe of months!
once the tune is dailed Id ride it like I stole it!
I just hope you happy with your cams, They are one of the most common grinds I see at swap meets, just for being saggy on the low and mid range I guess?...
are they a gear drive set up? Im using a Head Quarters grind that is good from 9.75 to 10.5 compression.
I have hear of guys even using it on 11 to 1 engines with over 110 ci with great success, but they are a cam for a heavy bike and they start pulling around 2200 rpm, which Is what I wanted.
If you are doing this on yer 06 bike look at the Thundermax with A/T. You can build a base program and with the wide band oxygen sensors it comes with it can tune itself.
Did it on my 103 build.
I took the sert off to save the money from dyno time. Like the TM better too.
i have a map that should work untill you get some miles on it if you want it let me know. and with brake in if you are using crome molly rings all it really needs is a few heat cycles. i had almost the same done and i had it dynoed after 300 miles
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