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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 08:12 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bob_fxdb
What’s your setup?
if it was me, I would delete the splitter(galfer) and run two lines from the master cylinder
Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
There is no advantage to doing that, and it would add more brake hose where air could be trapped.

OP:
You might try using a syringe, and pump the fluid in from the bleeder end at the calipers.
Yeah, switching lines isn't an option. They're all brand new and they'd all have to be replaced to go direct to the master.

As far as pumping fluid in, I think it's a good idea, but I have SpeedBleeders so I'd have to swap them back to stock, which also might be a good idea but what a PITA. That's probably going to be my next move, that and making sure the pistons aren't stuck.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 08:48 AM
  #12  
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Is it ABS equipped? I had the exact same issue when I replaced all of my lines with the Galfer setup. You have to acuate the ABS module. It's the only thing that worked for me. I have one of these http://infotechmercenary.com/product/315/
and it's worth every cent. Think about it, if it's not leaking what else can it be? Gotta get the air out. If you bought the same kit I bought you eliminated the short run from the front master to the distribution block right? You just have the 2 long runs back to the ABS module. That's a lot of air to move out of the lines.
 

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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 08:50 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by brownie4412
Is it ABS equipped? I had the exact same issue when I replaced all of my lines. You have to acuate the ABS module. It's the only thing that worked for me. I have one of these http://infotechmercenary.com/product/315/
and it's worth every cent. Think about it, if it's not leaking what else can it be? Gotta get the air out.
Nope, non-ABS. And I agree, it's gotta be air somewhere, right???
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 09:31 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
Nope, non-ABS. And I agree, it's gotta be air somewhere, right???
Has to be. Have you tried a bleed at each of the individual connection points other than the calipers? There's only 3 or 4 right? If the lines are long enough try isolating the calipers and then bleeding them individually. If none of that helps something's up with the master.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 09:45 AM
  #15  
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Sometimes air gets trapped in the fitting where the line connects to the master. You can use the banjo bolt like a bleeder, but be careful not to spill (or spray) brake fluid on your paint work.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by brownie4412
Has to be. Have you tried a bleed at each of the individual connection points other than the calipers? There's only 3 or 4 right? If the lines are long enough try isolating the calipers and then bleeding them individually. If none of that helps something's up with the master.
Only have bleeders on the calipers

Originally Posted by John CC
Sometimes air gets trapped in the fitting where the line connects to the master. You can use the banjo bolt like a bleeder, but be careful not to spill (or spray) brake fluid on your paint work.
Isn't the crush washer a one-time deal though? What I mean is that if I back a banjo off and retighten, the seal won't be the same. right?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 12:51 PM
  #17  
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This might sound stupid "BUT" remove the calipers and brake line clamps and raise the entire system above the master cylinder so all the air will go to the calipers. Put a box on a work bench if you have to so everything is above the MC. Crack open one bleeder and immediately put your finger over it. Then pump your brake lever and let off the bleeder, Put finger back over bleeder and release brake lever. Do this till you get good fluid and then repeat steps to the other caliper... I definitely has to be AIR..... And because the MC is the high point, that itself can be air bound....
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 12:56 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
This might sound stupid "BUT" remove the calipers and brake line clamps and raise the entire system above the master cylinder so all the air will go to the calipers. Put a box on a work bench if you have to so everything is above the MC. Crack open one bleeder and immediately put your finger over it. Then pump your brake lever and let off the bleeder, Put finger back over bleeder and release brake lever. Do this till you get good fluid and then repeat steps to the other caliper... I definitely has to be AIR..... And because the MC is the high point, that itself can be air bound....
Sounds reasonable to me. I am going to try and make time tonight to pull the calipers anyhow and make sure the pistons are moving freely on both the old one and the new one.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 01:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
Sounds reasonable to me. I am going to try and make time tonight to pull the calipers anyhow and make sure the pistons are moving freely on both the old one and the new one.
I'm sure they are and most likely the MC is AIR bound...
 
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Old Apr 26, 2022 | 04:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
Only have bleeders on the calipers
You have “bleeders” every place there’s a connection point. Hold the lever and crack a fitting. Close the fitting then let go of the lever. Do this several times at each fitting.
 
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