How Much Hp/TQ is required too...
I think I grew out of that....but....the sportster will light the rear end up in a heartbeat. (no front brake required)
You need to deceide when yer build a bike what you want out of it. Mileage, Hp, torque, two up. Reliable motor. YOu can do any kind of build you want. Its just what are you lookin for in the end.
I went over all this with my builder and the head guy.
Yeah i beat my bike pretty good.
Im using a Mikuni 42mm, with the C/P 10.5 pistions and HQ .575 cams.
and HQ/Daytona twin teck ignition.
Yes, the Butt dyno is jetting by the seat of you pants!
There might be some real # here, but I see way too much bench racing!
and now, with the internet, keystrokes are cheap power.
Keyboard racing??
Sounds like you are runnin mostly HQ equipment.
I've been researching my engine build for quite a few months now,
and I do believe that the HQ package is the way to go.
95 or 98, I'm not sure yet. Maybe tomorrow I'll pull the trigger.
Did you deal directly with Doug at HQ??
How was the overall experience?? Quick turnaround, etc??
Thanx
mud
I have a 95 big bore kit and I am having whats called a high comp (compression) build done to it.
The horse power will be streetable (around 93-95) and down in the earlier portion of the power band / RPM range
(I aint going racing)
but the tourque will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 111 to 112.
Good numbers.I know the kit uses different cams obviously, (chain drive remains though, bugs supposidly worked out on that)
forged pistons, adjustable pushrods, compresssion releases, hardly any head work.
I will get some more specifics later,
but for know its the build that I feel will be very streetable and usable in the range where most of us ride.
would be be a little more specific on the parts and pieces
that you are using to produce these numbers with no headwork??
93-95 HP
111 to 112 torque.
Impressive.
Especially that torque number.
mud
See above.
mud
I have a 95 big bore kit and I am having whats called a high comp (compression) build done to it. The horse power will be streetable (around 93-95) and down in the earlier portion of the power band / RPM range (I aint going racing) but the tourque will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 111 to 112. Good numbers.I know the kit uses different cams obviously, (chain drive remains though, bugs supposidly worked out on that) forged pistons, adjustable pushrods, compresssion releases, hardly any head work. I will get some more specifics later, but for know its the build that I feel will be very streetable and usable in the range where most of us ride.
Just a thought.
That's what my builder esplained to me. That's why I have like a 9.8.1 build.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
(emphasis on sensible)
Mud, Trotter, and xxxflhrci please see the thread I posted on the high comp kit for further...
And without the right cam you might need a starter for a diesel truck to turn the motor over. Think about the starter and battery strain.
All the componets on the stock engine are not built to handle the hp that we want to give it. That's why builders building 100 hp and higher split the cases and have the flywheel balanced and the pinion shaft and sprocket shaft and everything welded. And the cased bored for bigger stronger timken bearings to handle the extra hp and torque. If you do too much on the top end you got to do the botton end. Now we got the clutches, belt, transmission and everything esle to think about too. So pop those wheelies and think about it for a minute.
This is why I did so much homework when I did a mild build and talked many times to my Indy builder and the head man.
I've seen some build that had a short life too.



