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How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

i may get flamed. but, most harley's are not burn out bikes know what i mean . cruisers. i mean really , i have had burn out type bikes. imo it will just tear the **** out of the bike. [sm=gears.gif]i smells the flames coming. LOL .
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 09:29 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

I wont flame ya....if you got all the cash for more rear tires....feel free to float some his way brother!

I think I grew out of that....but....the sportster will light the rear end up in a heartbeat. (no front brake required)
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

Well, iono, my 383 corvette took a dump on me and its going to be a long time before I can get a motor in it...was the only car that I had that reminded me of my motorcycle sound etc etc...and one thing I really liked doing in that car was twirping the tires...course all you had to do with that is just put your foot down and thats all it took...was just wondering what it took to make my bike use all throttle to make the front end alil light hehe.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 05:52 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

Just remember torque is what you want.
You need to deceide when yer build a bike what you want out of it. Mileage, Hp, torque, two up. Reliable motor. YOu can do any kind of build you want. Its just what are you lookin for in the end.
I went over all this with my builder and the head guy.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 08:07 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

With my bike to do a wheelie i start out in first rolling on the throttle hard, let off abrubtly, then nail the throttle again and can do a wheelie. With a passenger i can do awesome wheelies. I can burn some good rubber going into second gear too. Hold throttle wide open and clutch and shift as fast as you can between gears without letting off the throttle. The assend will fishtail pretty good. From a stand still i rev it up about 2500 rpm then dump the clutch and can do an awesome burnout while taking off leading into a wheelie. To do a standing still burnout, just grab the front brake as hard as you can and use your palm to roll the throttle on. Let the clutch out slowly and voila, a smokey burnout. To run through the gears you need a few guys to hold the handle bars or have the front tire against a wall.

Yeah i beat my bike pretty good.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #26  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

ORIGINAL: mentor70
Im using a Mikuni 42mm, with the C/P 10.5 pistions and HQ .575 cams.
and HQ/Daytona twin teck ignition.
Yes, the Butt dyno is jetting by the seat of you pants!
There might be some real # here, but I see way too much bench racing!
mentor, bench racing goes way back as far as I can remember,
and now, with the internet, keystrokes are cheap power.
Keyboard racing??

Sounds like you are runnin mostly HQ equipment.

I've been researching my engine build for quite a few months now,
and I do believe that the HQ package is the way to go.

95 or 98, I'm not sure yet. Maybe tomorrow I'll pull the trigger.

Did you deal directly with Doug at HQ??
How was the overall experience?? Quick turnaround, etc??

Thanx
mud
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:58 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

ORIGINAL: Frank Castle

I have a 95 big bore kit and I am having whats called a high comp (compression) build done to it.
The horse power will be streetable (around 93-95) and down in the earlier portion of the power band / RPM range
(I aint going racing)
but the tourque will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 111 to 112.
Good numbers.I know the kit uses different cams obviously, (chain drive remains though, bugs supposidly worked out on that)
forged pistons, adjustable pushrods, compresssion releases, hardly any head work.
I will get some more specifics later,
but for know its the build that I feel will be very streetable and usable in the range where most of us ride.
Frank, if you don't mind,
would be be a little more specific on the parts and pieces
that you are using to produce these numbers with no headwork??

93-95 HP
111 to 112 torque.

Impressive.
Especially that torque number.

mud
Frank, you out there??

See above.

mud
 
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 11:26 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

ORIGINAL: Frank Castle

I have a 95 big bore kit and I am having whats called a high comp (compression) build done to it. The horse power will be streetable (around 93-95) and down in the earlier portion of the power band / RPM range (I aint going racing) but the tourque will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 111 to 112. Good numbers.I know the kit uses different cams obviously, (chain drive remains though, bugs supposidly worked out on that) forged pistons, adjustable pushrods, compresssion releases, hardly any head work. I will get some more specifics later, but for know its the build that I feel will be very streetable and usable in the range where most of us ride.
Don't mean to git into yer build but think about this. Oh a high compression build. The more pressure you put on the compresion in the top end, the more pressure it puts on the bottom end. Resulting on more pressure on the rods, crank and bearing.
Just a thought.
That's what my builder esplained to me. That's why I have like a 9.8.1 build.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:14 AM
  #29  
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Frank Castle
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

I asked the same question and was advised that the bottom end while not bullet proof by any means is prefectly fine if engine use and riding iscompleted in a somewhatsensible fashion...

(emphasis on sensible)

Mud, Trotter, and xxxflhrci please see the thread I posted on the high comp kit for further...
 
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 08:25 AM
  #30  
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Default RE: How Much Hp/TQ is required too...

I have been riding for a few years. I could tear down my motor myself if I had the tools and do the a lot of the engine work myself if I wanted to. But I'm not a motorcycle mechanic and I don't know how to balance everything out. Balancing everything out is very importand. If you put too much pressure here, it puts more pressure in other parts of the engine. HP and TQ can only be achieved in a balance motor. Too much compression puts stress on the botton end, resulting in a short life motor. I've seen bikes built that you had to run 80 to keep them from jumping. The right cam wasn't chosen.
And without the right cam you might need a starter for a diesel truck to turn the motor over. Think about the starter and battery strain.
All the componets on the stock engine are not built to handle the hp that we want to give it. That's why builders building 100 hp and higher split the cases and have the flywheel balanced and the pinion shaft and sprocket shaft and everything welded. And the cased bored for bigger stronger timken bearings to handle the extra hp and torque. If you do too much on the top end you got to do the botton end. Now we got the clutches, belt, transmission and everything esle to think about too. So pop those wheelies and think about it for a minute.
This is why I did so much homework when I did a mild build and talked many times to my Indy builder and the head man.
I've seen some build that had a short life too.
 
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