I have a ?
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The dream that woke you up in tears.
I have a ?
My bike idles at its normal 950-1050 rpm after warming up prior to riding. After riding...say at your next stop, she wont hardly drop below 1300.....is this too high? It sounds too high....just sounds wrong.
So the ?.....what is a power valve?
Bike has been set up the way it is now since the beginning almost 2 years ago.....dealer installed the pipes, the SE1 and re-jetted.
Perfect performance [in heaps]....I just never noticed this propensity to run at the 1300 before.
So the ?.....what is a power valve?
Bike has been set up the way it is now since the beginning almost 2 years ago.....dealer installed the pipes, the SE1 and re-jetted.
Perfect performance [in heaps]....I just never noticed this propensity to run at the 1300 before.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,934
Likes: 43
From: Bloomfield, NM
RE: I have a ?
All of my carburated bikes would do this. If you just warm it up a little, it is still not really warm. You ride it for a few minutes, and get it really warm, and the idle is too high.
What I did on mine was get it good and warm and slow the idle down to about 850 to 900. This is with the screw on the throttle cables, not the idle adjustment screw in the bottom of the carburator. If you do this you will have to use the enricher a little longer on warm up, and it won't idle as good when cold, but you will have the right idle for normal riding.
It could be an intake leak also, but I would guess that if it was you wouldn't be having "perfect performance", there would be some popping and rough running.
Regards,
Bill
What I did on mine was get it good and warm and slow the idle down to about 850 to 900. This is with the screw on the throttle cables, not the idle adjustment screw in the bottom of the carburator. If you do this you will have to use the enricher a little longer on warm up, and it won't idle as good when cold, but you will have the right idle for normal riding.
It could be an intake leak also, but I would guess that if it was you wouldn't be having "perfect performance", there would be some popping and rough running.
Regards,
Bill
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 32
From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: I have a ?
ORIGINAL: 2BKFXDL
My bike idles at its normal 950-1050 rpm after warming up prior to riding. After riding...say at your next stop, she wont hardly drop below 1300.....is this too high? It sounds too high....just sounds wrong.
So the ?.....what is a power valve?
Bike has been set up the way it is now since the beginning almost 2 years ago.....dealer installed the pipes, the SE1 and re-jetted.
Perfect performance [in heaps]....I just never noticed this propensity to run at the 1300 before.
My bike idles at its normal 950-1050 rpm after warming up prior to riding. After riding...say at your next stop, she wont hardly drop below 1300.....is this too high? It sounds too high....just sounds wrong.
So the ?.....what is a power valve?
Bike has been set up the way it is now since the beginning almost 2 years ago.....dealer installed the pipes, the SE1 and re-jetted.
Perfect performance [in heaps]....I just never noticed this propensity to run at the 1300 before.
By the way, that's an absolutely beautiful bike!
joe
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The dream that woke you up in tears.
RE: I have a ?
Intake leak...............I wondered about that.
Someone mentioned float issues.....someone mentioned power valve....I know what that is on a 2 cycle engine [like a snowmobile] but not sure where to direct myself on a TC88.
Performance is still really good.....no popping or anything or really running rough.
Sometimes the 1300 max will vary a bit.....more times than not she will stay at that idle after a run in midrange.
Only other abnormality is that the enrichener wants to crawl back to the off position on its own. I adjusted the tension nutt on the enrichener and that helped a bit.
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
If it were an intake leak what would be my best route at resolving that deal?
I am not mechanically illiterate but am not good enough with some of the TC88 issues to accurately diagnose a problem myself.
Someone mentioned float issues.....someone mentioned power valve....I know what that is on a 2 cycle engine [like a snowmobile] but not sure where to direct myself on a TC88.
Performance is still really good.....no popping or anything or really running rough.
Sometimes the 1300 max will vary a bit.....more times than not she will stay at that idle after a run in midrange.
Only other abnormality is that the enrichener wants to crawl back to the off position on its own. I adjusted the tension nutt on the enrichener and that helped a bit.
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
If it were an intake leak what would be my best route at resolving that deal?
I am not mechanically illiterate but am not good enough with some of the TC88 issues to accurately diagnose a problem myself.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,934
Likes: 43
From: Bloomfield, NM
RE: I have a ?
ORIGINAL: 2BKFXDL
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
.
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
.
The screw I am talking about is where the cables attach to the carb. It is a Phillips head that you can see on the upper right side of the carb. You have to look kinda down behind the air cleander to see it, and it's a little hard to get to. It is the screw that determines where the throttle arm stops when the throttle is closed.
If you suspect an air leak, spray a little WD40 around the rubber boot that attaches the carb to the manifold. If there is an air leak, you should notice a increase in rpm for a few seconds until the WD40 is burned. If there is a leak, you will need to replace the boot.
Regards,
Bill
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The dream that woke you up in tears.
RE: I have a ?
Thanks man...I know the screw you are talking about.....turning it clockwise I beleive should decrease rpm......
As for the boot....I think you are talking about the vaccum piston diaphragm that rests inside the carb manifold......that part is properly installed and there is a good seal and no tears in the boot........
Thanks for the info....I will try that tomorrow....that sounds like the culprit.
As for the boot....I think you are talking about the vaccum piston diaphragm that rests inside the carb manifold......that part is properly installed and there is a good seal and no tears in the boot........
Thanks for the info....I will try that tomorrow....that sounds like the culprit.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 715
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From: Yaphank, Long Island
RE: I have a ?
silly simple possibilty that i had a prob with was the wind shield was bending the throttle wire so it wouldnt return properly just wanted to share
Steve
Steve
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The dream that woke you up in tears.
RE: I have a ?
ORIGINAL: billnourse
The screw I am talking about is where the cables attach to the carb. It is a Phillips head that you can see on the upper right side of the carb. You have to look kinda down behind the air cleander to see it, and it's a little hard to get to. It is the screw that determines where the throttle arm stops when the throttle is closed.
If you suspect an air leak, spray a little WD40 around the rubber boot that attaches the carb to the manifold. If there is an air leak, you should notice a increase in rpm for a few seconds until the WD40 is burned. If there is a leak, you will need to replace the boot.
Regards,
Bill
ORIGINAL: 2BKFXDL
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
.
billnourse: are you talking about that star type adjustment piece below the switch housing on the throttle side?.....maybe I knocked it out of whack a turn or so...?
.
The screw I am talking about is where the cables attach to the carb. It is a Phillips head that you can see on the upper right side of the carb. You have to look kinda down behind the air cleander to see it, and it's a little hard to get to. It is the screw that determines where the throttle arm stops when the throttle is closed.
If you suspect an air leak, spray a little WD40 around the rubber boot that attaches the carb to the manifold. If there is an air leak, you should notice a increase in rpm for a few seconds until the WD40 is burned. If there is a leak, you will need to replace the boot.
Regards,
Bill
???? Is it allright to have the bike set at the 850-900 range without causing any further problems....I guess what I am asking is does that knock anything out of whack?
Thanks for the advice......
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,934
Likes: 43
From: Bloomfield, NM
RE: I have a ?
The only thing it might do is make you use the enricher a little longer on warm up. I can't think of any other issues you would have. All you did was let the trottle close a little more than it was, you didn't change any jetting, or idle settings.
Regards,
Bill
Regards,
Bill