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But I want to ride so probably I just use old punch tactic.
I have new bearings already. Some heat to wheel hub outer edge and punching. New bearings to freezer for couple of hours. Then cut old bearing and use it to punch new ones in. Rotor side first until fully seated. Then I know it for sure.
Punch new ones in and soon you will be buying more new bearings.
The biggest issue with sealed bearings failing on Harley Davidsons is improper installation.
Follow the service manual and use the proper tool, when you press the second bearing in, the tool presses on the inner and outer races at the same time, preventing damage to the bearing from cross loading.
Punch new ones in and soon you will be buying more new bearings.
The biggest issue with sealed bearings failing on Harley Davidsons is improper installation.
Follow the service manual and use the proper tool, when you press the second bearing in, the tool presses on the inner and outer races at the same time, preventing damage to the bearing from cross loading.
I understand this view and reasons behind. I have done this punching before to my track bikes, enduro bikes and Cafe racer Virago I built. Trick is to use old bearing, cut a notch to outer race. It will guide new one in as it is same size ( cut prevents old bearing to not stuck in). Also pressure comes equally to inner and outer races. Do not punch straight to races with a hammer.
Originally Posted by John CC
I'm confused. All you did was change the tire, right? It was OK before you did that, right? So, how could the bearings get displaced?
Got the bike in May. I found this condition (in pics) when I removed rear break caliper, bracket and rear wheel to change rear tyre. I did not notice this grinding when driving. Caliper blocks view to bracket and where pads seat in it.
I decided to wait bearing tool. I put it together already ( like in the pics) with new pads, so I can ride it this weekend. Will not use rear break, if I do not need it. Just to prevent more possible grinding. All tho I think it has grinded what it can with that bearing spacing.
But just to be sure I will fix it. Like I wrote earlier, first I will try to pull pulley side bearing out a bit. Then push rotor side until it bottoms. Then push pulley side so that everything comes together as one package (like it should have done, when someone installed them). Someone asks why, because I have new bearings already. Just put them in. Well maintenance, service, building is my hobby as much as riding. Also by receipts those are changed two years ago, and low mileage after that. With fingers they are tight but rotate freely. Also when on the bike, cannot feel any free play. So why not.
I will put before and after pics here when progressing. I will also take meas. from both sides for reference, when done.
And thank you all for pics. Bearing spacing most probably is the cause and not fully seated rotor side bearing.
Yeah, it looks like the pulley side bearing was installed first when the wheel bearings were installed. Brake side is supposed to be installed first and seated up against the boss inside the hub.. There is damage to the caliper bracket. I'd also have a strong suspicions that the wheel bearing on the pulley side may be shot or possibly the bearing fit loose.
I understand this view and reasons behind. I have done this punching before to my track bikes, enduro bikes and Cafe racer Virago I built. Trick is to use old bearing, cut a notch to outer race. It will guide new one in as it is same size ( cut prevents old bearing to not stuck in). Also pressure comes equally to inner and outer races. Do not punch straight to races with a hammer.
Got the bike in May. I found this condition (in pics) when I removed rear break caliper, bracket and rear wheel to change rear tyre. I did not notice this grinding when driving. Caliper blocks view to bracket and where pads seat in it.
I decided to wait bearing tool. I put it together already ( like in the pics) with new pads, so I can ride it this weekend. Will not use rear break, if I do not need it. Just to prevent more possible grinding. All tho I think it has grinded what it can with that bearing spacing.
But just to be sure I will fix it. Like I wrote earlier, first I will try to pull pulley side bearing out a bit. Then push rotor side until it bottoms. Then push pulley side so that everything comes together as one package (like it should have done, when someone installed them). Someone asks why, because I have new bearings already. Just put them in. Well maintenance, service, building is my hobby as much as riding. Also by receipts those are changed two years ago, and low mileage after that. With fingers they are tight but rotate freely. Also when on the bike, cannot feel any free play. So why not.
I will put before and after pics here when progressing. I will also take meas. from both sides for reference, when done.
And thank you all for pics. Bearing spacing most probably is the cause and not fully seated rotor side bearing.
I wouldn't try pulling the pulley side bearing out a little, or any, unless you intend to replace it. The only way to pull the bearing puts force on the inner race and that's bad for bearings.
The bearing position in the hub can't really be offset the way you are thinking unless the hub is seriously damaged. The spacer between the bearings is there to protect the inner race from side loads, it is not to position the bearings.
The wheel hub has lips that position the bearings in the correct spot. As long as both bearings are fully seated that part should be good. If one of the bearings was not fully seated I don't think you would be able to get the wheel to fit in the swingarm with the spacers.
I decided to wait bearing tool. I put it together already ( like in the pics) with new pads, so I can ride it this weekend. Will not use rear break, if I do not need it. Just to prevent more possible grinding. All tho I think it has grinded what it can with that bearing spacing.
Poor judgment....
This is a hack way of working on a motorcycle, sometimes you just have to wait until you have the correct parts and tools to assemble the motorcycle the correct way.
But hell, it is only a rear wheel bearing, and a caliper grinding against a brake rotor, what could go wrong?
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Aug 6, 2022 at 09:12 AM.
The bearing position in the hub can't really be offset the way you are thinking unless the hub is seriously damaged. The spacer between the bearings is there to protect the inner race from side loads, it is not to position the bearings.
The wheel hub has lips that position the bearings in the correct spot. As long as both bearings are fully seated that part should be good. If one of the bearings was not fully seated I don't think you would be able to get the wheel to fit in the swingarm with the spacers.
Trying to pull bearing more out might damage it. Thats correct I’ll check it when I see how easily and with what force it takes to move.
About the position, I think this is not fully true. If instructions from the manual say to install rotor side first until fully seated (bottomed out). It means that bearing cannot go deeper. After that you put spacer from pulley side, then pulley side bearing. You cannot push it in more after spacer hits rotor side bearing. Right. Then you have full package together, both bearings and spacer in between.
But if you do not push rotor side bearing fully in (bottomed out) first, your spacer and pulley side bearing go too deep, compared to above situation I explained first. Then also wheel center point moves to pulley side direction and rotor. Thats why rotor has grinded bracket inner edge. That is my current view what has happened.
But hell, it is only a rear wheel bearing, and a caliper grinding against a brake rotor, what could go wrong?
I like your attitude, safety first.
I already explained that I have checked bearings, they are fine. They are probably just 1/8” (or what ever the bottomed out means on rotor side) too much on rotor side.
Rotor does not hit bracket, it just clears it. New pads just to make sure outside pad does not drop between caliper and rotor, stays in the groove. There is max width in between caliper with new pads(max wear limit). Everything spins freely. Checked also wheel alignment and belt tension.
We have wrecked our track bikes, fetched them with truck and fixed them in the pit. Thats scary stuff 😆
Job done. Got the tool earlier than expected. Installed new bearings too.
Rotor side bearing house (hub) is 19.5mm or 0.768" deep.
Pulley side bearing house (hub) is 22mm or 7/8" deep.
First task is to push rotor side bearing fully in, until seated/ bottomed out. After bearing is fully in, there is 4.3mm - approx 1/8" from the hub edge to bearing outer race.
After spacer is in you push pulley side bearing in. After bearing is pushed in and meets spacer, there is 3.9 - 4.0mm - approx 1/8" from the hub edge to bearing outer race.
As a conclusion both bearings sit in quite equal depth. But hubs are different depths, which means you can install bearings wrongly. This was my case.
Now caliper sits better and rotor does not grind to caliper bracket. There is space to both directions. After Spacing inside the caliper bracket
Last edited by Thri1179; Aug 10, 2022 at 02:27 PM.
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