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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Bought my 08’ Dyna Street Bob during spring and changed new rear tyre (Michelin) today.
I took the break caliper out, pads and spring fell right out. When I took bracket out, I noticed that rotor has eaten bracket inner race 1/8” (wheel side). Did not notice anything when driving. Also new bike for me.
I cannot get bracket inline with rotor, it rubs what ever I do. When I install caliper back, gap is so big on pistons side that pad does not stay in the groove (it falls between rotor and caliper bracket).
I have now wondered several hours what is the cause. 1/8” is so much that it cannot be warped rotor, not bend laced wheel hub (new tire done today on tire dealer and balanced), caliper bracket is so thick it cannot bend.
How about wheel bearings, could some one check or send photo (even tire on place normally), how deep both bearings should be? It would help to check my situation. Rotor side bearing is flushed with hub. Pulley side is quite deep. This could cause symptoms, because wheel is too much on pulley side -> rotor “too center” and grinds to bracket inner wall.
I found from the old service receipts (came with the bike), wheel bearings were changed two years ago. Previous owner did not drive many miles after that. Could they have installed bearings in wrong order/spacing. Should rotor side bearing be deeper , is there lip to bottom out bearing? Is it possible to move “whole package” to pulley direction inside the hub? Bearings feel ok.
If someone could send measurement on rotor side, or pics. It would help a ton with a new bike. Appreciate it.
I can't help but think a through review of the rear wheel and bearings, removal and install procedure in the '08 Dyna Street Bob service manual could answer your questions. A Harley service manual is good to have.
My 2000 model FXDWG service manual does not specify a Bearing depth for the rear wheel Bearings. Only to use bearing removal/install tool # HD-44060. My bearings both appear to be seated about 1/8" inch deep below the wheel surface. I've never replaced rear wheel bearings on a motorcycle.
I apologize but, that's all the help I can provide.
Last edited by benscratchin; Aug 4, 2022 at 06:19 PM.
Reason: Typo:
Just had the tire and wheel off my 08 Fat Bob and the spacers on mine were side specific, one was shorter than the other , and made sure to install back in the same position, I did have an issue getting the caliper bracket to slide back into the swing arm , took a few tries but it was doable . Any Dyna service manual from 08 to 17 will have the info .
Spacers are clear, short one to rotor side and long one to pulley side.
I have checked also manual. With Harley installation tool, bearing will be fully seated when nut can no longer be turned.
But as I have not done this before, I do not know how deep this ”fully seated” is. I guess there is a lip, but now rotor side is flushed with wheel edge. I guess there is that 1/8” space (not fully seated during installation) what causes that grinding between rotor and bracket. My guess atm. That is why I asked any meas. or pic from someone else. There is no dust seal so pic can be taken wheel on in normal driving condition.
I also ordered installation/removal tool, but I get it later next week. Thought if I can pull pulley side bearing outwards and push rotor side more in. Bearings feel ok and by receipts are quite new. Could have saved those. But I want to ride so probably I just use old punch tactic.
I have new bearings already. Some heat to wheel hub outer edge and punching. New bearings to freezer for couple of hours. Then cut old bearing and use it to punch new ones in. Rotor side first until fully seated. Then I know it for sure.
Spacers are clear, short one to rotor side and long one to pulley side.
I have checked also manual. With Harley installation tool, bearing will be fully seated when nut can no longer be turned.
But as I have not done this before, I do not know how deep this fully seated is. I guess there is a lip, but now rotor side is flushed with wheel edge. I guess there is that 1/8 space (not fully seated during installation) what causes that grinding between rotor and bracket. My guess atm. That is why I asked any meas. or pic from someone else. There is no dust seal so pic can be taken wheel on in normal driving condition.
I also ordered installation/removal tool, but I get it later next week. Thought if I can pull pulley side bearing outwards and push rotor side more in. Bearings feel ok and by receipts are quite new. Could have saved those. But I want to ride so probably I just use old punch tactic.
I have new bearings already. Some heat to wheel hub outer edge and punching. New bearings to freezer for couple of hours. Then cut old bearing and use it to punch new ones in. Rotor side first until fully seated. Then I know it for sure.
I am a 30 year journeyman mechanic by trade, I have done the bearing freeze trick, but not a fan of using heat because of the changes it can do to the area , you don't want to oval the bore or disfigure it because you need the right fit for the bearings and rotor so everything runs straight and true
I am a 30 year journeyman mechanic by trade, I have done the bearing freeze trick, but not a fan of using heat because of the changes it can do to the area , you don't want to oval the bore or disfigure it because you need the right fit for the bearings and rotor so everything runs straight and true
Not a fan of freezing bearings, too much moisture accumulates on the bearing when it comes out of the freezer.
Heating the hub will not distort or damage anything (48 year journeyman aircraft mechanic by profession).
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Aug 5, 2022 at 04:20 PM.
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Rear wheel bearing spacing
Rear Wheel spacing issue:
