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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Hey all, first post. So I got new wheels for my 2012 Dyna Street Bob because the bearing had spun in the hub on my switchblade wheels on the drive side. I opted to get some new wheels from Harley from the 2017 Dyna Low Rider S. Using my manual, I torqued my sprocket (chain driven) bolts to 80 ft/lbs (manual says 77-83 ft/lbs) after an initial torque of 60 ft/lbs (as per the manual). I just happened to be looking at something else and saw that the torque for a 2017 Low Rider S is 67-73 ft/lbs. Is this extra 7 ft/lbs going to be the death of my brand new rear wheel? I just did a 124 S&S right before this so my wife is not too pleased that I've had to already go over budget. Both wheel sets are cast wheels and aluminum for anyone not familiar with them
If the torque wrench your using is spot on calibration you might want to back off and retorque. If it was an older or cheap torque wrench I would bet thats within its window of error and I wouldn't worry about it.
If the torque wrench your using is spot on calibration you might want to back off and retorque. If it was an older or cheap torque wrench I would bet thats within its window of error and I wouldn't worry about it.
It's a Husky Home Depot torque wrench that's about 5 years old. I'm guessing I should still get some new grade 8's as well even if it hasn't been ridden yet too?
Hey all, first post. So I got new wheels for my 2012 Dyna Street Bob because the bearing had spun in the hub on my switchblade wheels on the drive side. I opted to get some new wheels from Harley from the 2017 Dyna Low Rider S. Using my manual, I torqued my sprocket (chain driven) bolts to 80 ft/lbs (manual says 77-83 ft/lbs) after an initial torque of 60 ft/lbs (as per the manual). I just happened to be looking at something else and saw that the torque for a 2017 Low Rider S is 67-73 ft/lbs. Is this extra 7 ft/lbs going to be the death of my brand new rear wheel? I just did a 124 S&S right before this so my wife is not too pleased that I've had to already go over budget. Both wheel sets are cast wheels and aluminum for anyone not familiar with them
Difference is the 2012 wheels were still made in Australia, 2017 are from China. Not joking.
Done once I'd say your fine, leave them alone and just check periodically for a while for peace of mind.
Difference is the 2012 wheels were still made in Australia, 2017 are from China. Not joking.
Done once I'd say your fine, leave them alone and just check periodically for a while for peace of mind.
I already broke them loose so tomorrow I'll chase and clean the threads and just redo it. Off to Napa I go for some more bolts. Better safe than sorry.
Should have just left them in . There are no turning forces on the bolts so all they need to do is stay put . Now you're going to be effectively loosening them if you put them back in again at a lesser torque setting . Note also that pulley bolts are described as one use only .
Should have just left them in . There are no turning forces on the bolts so all they need to do is stay put . Now you're going to be effectively loosening them if you put them back in again at a lesser torque setting . Note also that pulley bolts are described as one use only .
I'm not really understanding the loosening part. I'm going to use new bolts and chase the threads. I am more worried about permanently deforming the threads in the wheel with having them in there for a long period of time because I'll be changing my sprocket out in another 10k. I dunno I'm just a worry wart and over think stuff sometimes.
Grade 8 in .9 inches of 6061 is good for a max tq for 77.5 fp.. You are a little over but the next time you pull the pulley off. replace the bolts and TQ lower.
Did you use loctite the first time? As said depending on the depth the bolt sits in the wheel is the real concern.. When using loctite it's also a lubricant to accurately set torque values.. If you did not use it take it back apart and set it to the proper specs.. No need for new bolts
Did you use loctite the first time? As said depending on the depth the bolt sits in the wheel is the real concern.. When using loctite it's also a lubricant to accurately set torque values.. If you did not use it take it back apart and set it to the proper specs.. No need for new bolts
I did use loctite on them. I took it back apart and used new bolts anyway. They're inexpensive so I figured why not.
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