The first time my SuperGlide won't start! BALLS!
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 295
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From: Northeast
But also further trouble shooting will go better with a good battery. But they aint cheap.
Need to check for spark.
Need to check for spark.
But still, Im concerned about the hard starts. Between each crank, it audibly STOPS turning over, for about 1-2 seconds, and then reluctantly turns again, stops, turns again. It can go for about maybe 5-6 of this cycle, slower and slower and then the battery just gives up. This is on full charge.
Without checking spark, I can confidently say it isnt normal, compared to other FI bikes ive heard / ridden. Granted I understand for example it takes less energy to turn over a Sporty engine than a much bigger by comparison Dyna engine. But Im referring to other Dynas that plenty of my buds have.
Im wondering about the connection between the battery and the ground, or the battery and the starter. Im also going to check these for corrosion. Probly will shine them up, regardless.
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
Ya forget to mention, damn near first thing to check is loose battery cables. Surprising how often that happens. Sure sounds like low votlage.
But you need to know if not charging or bad battery. Charge over night, should read close to 14.4 when coming right off charger. See if the bike starts. Again I wouldm't be afraid to put on 6 or 10 amps for 5-10 minutes and see if sounds better. If spins faster, buy a battery.
You can load test. But I am giving an easy way to test, if you don't have time. Another half assed test, if it starts when it comes off charger. Leave it for few days off charger. If it doesn't start, get a battery.
These are easy things to do when you don't have much time, and can wait for results.
But sounds like battery/charging. Sure it doesn't hurt to check frame ground connects, but these days, I just don't see that much. Not the first thing I jump to.
But you need to know if not charging or bad battery. Charge over night, should read close to 14.4 when coming right off charger. See if the bike starts. Again I wouldm't be afraid to put on 6 or 10 amps for 5-10 minutes and see if sounds better. If spins faster, buy a battery.
You can load test. But I am giving an easy way to test, if you don't have time. Another half assed test, if it starts when it comes off charger. Leave it for few days off charger. If it doesn't start, get a battery.
These are easy things to do when you don't have much time, and can wait for results.
But sounds like battery/charging. Sure it doesn't hurt to check frame ground connects, but these days, I just don't see that much. Not the first thing I jump to.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Northeast
Originally Posted by hattitude;[url=tel:20892109
20892109[/url]]I'd start with the battery... Give it a good charge and then load test.
Make sure to check the cables, to include the ground at the frame. Cables should be clean and tight. Since slow starting has been happening all along, check the condition of the cables where they are crimped at the lugs. Look for possible heavy corrosion or broken copper strands. With a good battery and good connections, that engine should spin over well, unless it is a high compression, big bore monster...
Once the electrical is all squared away, if it still doesn't start, then check for codes... The codes can lead you in the right direction, however you may have a bunch of old codes from a weak battery. Electrical glitches can cause multiple unrelated codes to pop up.
If no current and repeating codes are present to point you in certain direction, then start a proper diagnostic check for spark, fuel, and compression... Given your symptoms as reported, I'd focus first on determining if you have good spark...
Best to be systematic and thorough in your diagnosis... you'll find it...
Report back what you find....
Make sure to check the cables, to include the ground at the frame. Cables should be clean and tight. Since slow starting has been happening all along, check the condition of the cables where they are crimped at the lugs. Look for possible heavy corrosion or broken copper strands. With a good battery and good connections, that engine should spin over well, unless it is a high compression, big bore monster...
Once the electrical is all squared away, if it still doesn't start, then check for codes... The codes can lead you in the right direction, however you may have a bunch of old codes from a weak battery. Electrical glitches can cause multiple unrelated codes to pop up.
If no current and repeating codes are present to point you in certain direction, then start a proper diagnostic check for spark, fuel, and compression... Given your symptoms as reported, I'd focus first on determining if you have good spark...
Best to be systematic and thorough in your diagnosis... you'll find it...
Report back what you find....
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 295
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From: Northeast
Originally Posted by nevil;[url=tel:20892275
20892275[/url]]You shouldn't be using a trickle charger. What you need is a battery tender for the times when you're not regularly riding the bike.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Northeast
Ok!! Reporting back with some findings:
Got the ol' Fluke out and measured the battery while off: Was steady at 12.52v, which is normal, from what I understand. Then switched on the key and threw on the fuel injector... dropped down to about 12.14v. All normal (as far as I understand). So after some research into voltages while starting up, I found that for the Dynas like mine, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 9v while cranking over the motor. I measured mine, and it did it's slow CRANK, CRANK, CRANK.... CRRRANNNK.... and by some miracle it actually started up! So I guess my plugs are fine. The voltage dropped however to about 6.3v! Apparently this is the sign of a tired battery. While the bike was running, it was at 14.14v, and slowly gaining charge. So my stator seems to be doing it's job.
I then ripped the battery out and busted out the wire brush and went to work, cleaned the lugs, the terminals and both ends of the negative cable until all was shiny and fresh, and not even a trace of corrosion was ANYWHERE near that battery. Went through the whole rigamaroll again and the measurements were the same.
So, much to my surprise, I'm going to assume that the battery is just getting tired. Even after all the cleaning, the cranking was still slow and laborious. But it DID start up again. Of course. Right when I don't want it to. But hey, I'd rather it fail me in the driveway, then while I'm out somewhere.
I think I'm going to look into a new battery. Any suggestions guys? I've always used Motobatt by suggestion from a friend... fairly good priced and great company. However I'm always willing to tinker around and find something new!
Got the ol' Fluke out and measured the battery while off: Was steady at 12.52v, which is normal, from what I understand. Then switched on the key and threw on the fuel injector... dropped down to about 12.14v. All normal (as far as I understand). So after some research into voltages while starting up, I found that for the Dynas like mine, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 9v while cranking over the motor. I measured mine, and it did it's slow CRANK, CRANK, CRANK.... CRRRANNNK.... and by some miracle it actually started up! So I guess my plugs are fine. The voltage dropped however to about 6.3v! Apparently this is the sign of a tired battery. While the bike was running, it was at 14.14v, and slowly gaining charge. So my stator seems to be doing it's job.
I then ripped the battery out and busted out the wire brush and went to work, cleaned the lugs, the terminals and both ends of the negative cable until all was shiny and fresh, and not even a trace of corrosion was ANYWHERE near that battery. Went through the whole rigamaroll again and the measurements were the same.
So, much to my surprise, I'm going to assume that the battery is just getting tired. Even after all the cleaning, the cranking was still slow and laborious. But it DID start up again. Of course. Right when I don't want it to. But hey, I'd rather it fail me in the driveway, then while I'm out somewhere.
I think I'm going to look into a new battery. Any suggestions guys? I've always used Motobatt by suggestion from a friend... fairly good priced and great company. However I'm always willing to tinker around and find something new!
Last edited by damager1; Oct 25, 2022 at 06:12 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Ok!! Reporting back with some findings:
Got the ol' Fluke out and measured the battery while off: Was steady at 12.52v, which is normal, from what I understand. Then switched on the key and threw on the fuel injector... dropped down to about 12.14v. All normal (as far as I understand). So after some research into voltages while starting up, I found that for the Dynas like mine, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 9v while cranking over the motor. I measured mine, and it did it's slow CRANK, CRANK, CRANK.... CRRRANNNK.... and by some miracle it actually started up! So I guess my plugs are fine. The voltage dropped however to about 6.3v! Apparently this is the sign of a tired battery. While the bike was running, it was at 14.14v, and slowly gaining charge. So my stator seems to be doing it's job.
I then ripped the battery out and busted out the wire brush and went to work, cleaned the lugs, the terminals and both ends of the negative cable until all was shiny and fresh, and not even a trace of corrosion was ANYWHERE near that battery. Went through the whole rigamaroll again and the measurements were the same.
So, much to my surprise, I'm going to assume that the battery is just getting tired. Even after all the cleaning, the cranking was still slow and laborious. But it DID start up again. Of course. Right when I don't want it to. But hey, I'd rather it fail me in the driveway, then while I'm out somewhere.
I think I'm going to look into a new battery. Any suggestions guys? I've always used Motobatt by suggestion from a friend... fairly good priced and great company. However I'm always willing to tinker around and find something new!
Got the ol' Fluke out and measured the battery while off: Was steady at 12.52v, which is normal, from what I understand. Then switched on the key and threw on the fuel injector... dropped down to about 12.14v. All normal (as far as I understand). So after some research into voltages while starting up, I found that for the Dynas like mine, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 9v while cranking over the motor. I measured mine, and it did it's slow CRANK, CRANK, CRANK.... CRRRANNNK.... and by some miracle it actually started up! So I guess my plugs are fine. The voltage dropped however to about 6.3v! Apparently this is the sign of a tired battery. While the bike was running, it was at 14.14v, and slowly gaining charge. So my stator seems to be doing it's job.
I then ripped the battery out and busted out the wire brush and went to work, cleaned the lugs, the terminals and both ends of the negative cable until all was shiny and fresh, and not even a trace of corrosion was ANYWHERE near that battery. Went through the whole rigamaroll again and the measurements were the same.
So, much to my surprise, I'm going to assume that the battery is just getting tired. Even after all the cleaning, the cranking was still slow and laborious. But it DID start up again. Of course. Right when I don't want it to. But hey, I'd rather it fail me in the driveway, then while I'm out somewhere.
I think I'm going to look into a new battery. Any suggestions guys? I've always used Motobatt by suggestion from a friend... fairly good priced and great company. However I'm always willing to tinker around and find something new!
I had 3 Harley ones . They lasted 12 years or so. Have had now the second GEL MAT Walmart one. Half the Harley price and just as good.
And it sure is easy to find a store. Just make sure they have the right one. They stock mine.
PS..that 12.14 with the headlight and fuel pump prime is not normal. I am surprised you not more then a click out of the starter.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 25, 2022 at 06:36 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 295
Likes: 23
From: Northeast
What should it be, might I ask? Just so I know what to look for in the future. And btw - if you heard my compression stroke try to turn over, you might not be surprised
It was painful to listen to at best. To the point where my girlfriend, who has NO mechanical background whatsoever, was sayin "why does your bike sound like it's gasping it's last breath???"
Last edited by damager1; Oct 25, 2022 at 06:50 PM.
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Deka Battery from East Penn is supposedly the provider of Harley Davidsons batteries. According to their website your battery for the 2009 Dyna is an ETX-20L, check in with Batteries Plus, they usually have a variety of manufacturers. A lot of choices will pop up here soon. When you get the new battery, charge it to full prior to installation. On HDs the battery runs the bike electrical while you are riding, not the charging system. Good luck.
Some batteries will come with brass spacers, this enables the cable lugs to sit flush on the battery posts.
Some batteries will come with brass spacers, this enables the cable lugs to sit flush on the battery posts.
Last edited by seniorsuperglideE8; Oct 25, 2022 at 06:54 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
I get 7 years out of Harley. So I get harley, I don't do lithium due to price, and I get such good life out of Harley. Out of 7 worse I did was 5.
For me it is just easy to go to a dealer and get one. I am not a buy harley guy either.
For me it is just easy to go to a dealer and get one. I am not a buy harley guy either.
