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Before I tried shimming it, would it be worth it, to just torque it??
Why not just either shim it or chuck it up in a lathe and trim .030 off of the shoulder and be done with it once and for all and not revisit the issue down the road?
It's true. The tighter you make the nut the greater the random forces affecting the torque become, like friction, type and amount of lubricant present, etc. By tightening to a lower initial torque those influences are minimized, and then tightening a specific angle adds a predictable amount of additional preload to the bolt.
Excellent points and this is exactly why! alot of people don't use a torque wrench properly, or use proper lube, this induces so many errors and insufficient clamp force and stretch, thats why the angle method is better to mitigate this.
Firstly, thank you so much for finding the Tech Tips and sending them across I appreciate you taking the time on your sunday. Secondly, I'm confused how the second TT which states to only torque to 75nm and not the original 150+ how can they allow for such a difference, and would you recommend torqueing to 150 or 75. Apologies I know you said to use the new comp torque procedure but it confuses me a tad..
you don't have a torque wrench or can borrow one to go 75lbft?, also make sure and machine or shim the bolt as was suggested. But if I were you I would be so excited to get that back together and go ride make sure that noise is gone. Its loud in the video lol
How confusing can it be. Follow the new torque procedure; torque comp/sprocket nut to 75ft.lb, not nm, then continue for 45*-50*; done. If you are curious about the final torque in ft.lb., put your torque wrench back on and see how tight it is. When you do it, you will see how difficult it can be to pull that extra 45*-50*; its plenty tight. The more important thing is to shorten the comp/sprocket nut by at least .030" or it could come loose again. Look at the drawing above so you understand the issue of making sure adequate clamping pressure is applied.
this drawing lays it out perfect, labels and all lol
Why not just either shim it or chuck it up in a lathe and trim .030 off of the shoulder and be done with it once and for all and not revisit the issue down the road?
Because I wouldn't need to research what people did back in the day and decide if I thought it was a good idea. Unless I found a harley bulletin, I would want to think about this. its beyond my skill set too. I have never played with shims. Not saying I could learn. But I also would about just tightening it done.
The bulletin starts in 2003, which was first year of non timken. So I can see a harley chasing its tail with respect to torque procedure and shims.
You are probably right, but I don't want to think about this. I would just torque down.
If I understand what you're saying, the torque wrench cannot discriminate between tightening down on the compensator or just bottoming out. The shim or trim gets you an extra .030" before it bottoms out.
If I understand what you're saying, the torque wrench cannot discriminate between tightening down on the compensator or just bottoming out. The shim or trim gets you an extra .030" before it bottoms out.
I am just saying, because I am not experienced shiming and measuring comps. and there is no official bulletin, I might just tq to spec, and check again at some point in the future. Maybe I am passing the buck on shims. Or I would research more.
I am just saying, because I am not experienced shiming and measuring comps. and there is no official bulletin, I might just tq to spec, and check again at some point in the future. Maybe I am passing the buck on shims. Or I would research more.
Yes there is an official bulletin....
Tech Tips are issued by the MoCo, to their dealer network.
Harley Tech Tip #TT122, issued on 10/29/03, that I shared in post #14, is pretty official..
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