Don't go 80mph....

 

:d:d:d

 

Last year I purchased my first Dyna. unmolested four thousand mile 2012 FXDF 96ci.

first good hard ride at around seventy five and rolling on the throttle hard, felt like a Fu$&# hinge under my ***.

Contributed it to dried out motor mounts and when I checked the alignment it was way off sitting at 79 degrees.

installed glide pro motor mounts front and rear, ordered much heavier durability since my plans involved building horsepower in the future!

Installed and set the alignment to 90 degrees can’t get more perfect then that, the first few rides felt like my 65 XLCH Shovelster! Shook me hard, they require break-in, gone as quick as the 96 huffed and puffed 110mph and solid and confident.

next was a full S&S 106 engine build from flywheels to cylinder heads, and in all honesty out on the road no issues from 10-130mph solid, except we did notice during other tuning on the Dyno, the rear of the drivetrain was crabbing under wide open acceleration.

Next was Spute posi for front and rear, it instantly converted it into a Hybrid smooth solid mount frame engine feeling with quicker steering reactions and no wobbling or fear of it!

Since then almost every drivetrain part has been changed due to not being able to handle the extra power, Baker grudge box, full Evo clutch and 30 tooth comp elimination set up, ceramic wheel bearings, C&S swing arm, quick shifter, chain conversion, 20 shot of happy gas!

What learned from this experience, Dyna could have been better except they left off the parts that made the FXR great!

Air cooled Harleys get ingrained into your soul, yes I owned faster Sport bikes and still do, but building this has had its share of frustration, pain, large - debt!

But no matter what it’s the most fun I have ever built, everything except tuning was me and JIMs tools & Harbor freight’s 20 ton press.

its like a two wheel 60s big block muscle car, turns like ****, stopping requires advanced thought processes, but light to light it’s all tire smoke hard acceleration and laughter!
loving every moment!

my apologies got side tracked

1-good quality mounts
2-proper alignment
3-for true confidence Spute

hope this helps
Jeff

 

This subject has been bugging me. So now is the time to ask.

@Max Headflow You are saying that the outer race of the first installed bearing is fully seated into the hub. When you install the second bearing, the outer race is XX" amount away from being fully seated in the hub????? Only the inner race of the second bearing is fully seated against the spacer??? Only a press fit is what keeps the hub from sliding side to side on the bearings??

I am used to setting up tapered wheel bearings. If you don't shim the spacer properly and leave it too loose, the wheel will move side to side as well as wobble.

Thank you!
Tom

 

Yep.. The SM says what bearing gets pressed in first.. IIRC, it's the first bearing is the side the disk is on and in the case of dual disks it's the left side or the side that has fixed spacers.. Away from the pinch/cap side..

Whatever you press the second bearing in with needs to be flat between the inner and outer race so the bearing spaces off the center spacer..

The important thing is that there are many wheel bearing tools are not machined to do so..

The whole idea is to reduce assembly time.. Timkens need to be set up.

 

That just seems odd to leave the outer race with a gap to the hub, rather than fully seated. Hmm..


Thank you,
Tom

 

It is not odd...

That is the way it has been done on metric bikes and all types of machinery for eons....

 

Yup, dead on. Harley calls it the "Primary" side of the rim (has nothing to do with the engine primary), left side for the front and right for the rear. Bearing install has been discussed at length in other threads here as well but the big take away that I got is that it's important to not press the bearing by the outer race when setting the non-primary side, Doing so risks over pressing as the spacer will create outward force against the inner race.

 

I was on a short vacation and talked to many people who told me that they experienced wobbling after installing Shinko 777 (my new tires) on Kawasaki VN1600, Dragstar 1100 and HD Tourings. Tomorrow i will go to install Metzeler 888 and i will write whether it helped or not.

 

I also find it very strange and have never seen it on japan bikes. Spacer is always the right length so that the bearing is inserted into the hub completely without gaps on either side.