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Fat Bob Brake Light stuck on

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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 01:40 PM
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Exclamation Fat Bob Brake Light stuck on

I have a '17 Dyna Fat Bob FXDF that has has issues with the brake light sticking on. At first, it was from the front brake master cylinder plunger not pushing the brake lever back out all the way to shut the brake light off. a few jiggles of the brake lever and the light would go off. Now its stuck on and I don't think its due to the front brake switch anymore. The bikes DIAG code is b2223 (Rear brake switch shorted low (light on)) and gave me the Pn 41000351A (BCM). I took the BCM out and off to visually inspect what i could to make sure there wasnt any corosion on any of the wires. BCM wires and plugs look fine. Plugged BCM back in and now the hazards come on and they wint shut off from the hazard switch. They only shut off if i disconnect the BCM. Did I do something wrong by disconnecting the BCM? Or is is a short in the wiring harness? HELP!
 
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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 05:27 PM
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First rule when troubleshooting electrical: Simple stuff first.

Have you tried unplugging the rear brake light switch?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 07:12 PM
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Just did and when I turned the Ignition on, the brake light was off. When I plugged it back in, the brake light came on again. Does that point to a faulty rear brake switch? Don't mean to ask simple questions, I am just not very mechanically inclined when it comes to motorcycles and electrical stuff.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HRshuvvnStuff
Does that point to a faulty rear brake switch?
It Screams "REPLACE THE #$@% SWITCH".
 
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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HRshuvvnStuff
Just did and when I turned the Ignition on, the brake light was off. When I plugged it back in, the brake light came on again. Does that point to a faulty rear brake switch? Don't mean to ask simple questions, I am just not very mechanically inclined when it comes to motorcycles and electrical stuff.
Originally Posted by John CC
It Screams "REPLACE THE #$@% SWITCH".
Perhaps it screams have someone change it for him.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2024 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TSheff
Perhaps it screams have someone change it for him.

Or it's a "fairly" easy way to learn to work on the bike.

Tom
 
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Old Jul 10, 2024 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom H
Or it's a "fairly" easy way to learn to work on the bike.

Tom
Thanks for the info. Like I said, I am new to working on motorcycles and wasnt sure if it meant a more extensive electrical problem.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2024 | 02:40 PM
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I'm not familiar with that year, but, if it's just a hydraulic switch in the brake line or master, all you have to do is get the new switch in one hand and unscrew the old one with the other hand. As soon as it is out put the new one in. You want to avoid loosing a significant amount of fluid or introducing air into the system. (A little fluid coming out will prevent air from getting in. Just don't let it drip for 5 minutes while you unpack the new switch.)

Brake fluid makes good paint stripper, so be careful.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2024 | 04:43 PM
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I don't know if this method applies to your bike. Some of us old bastards remember when the brake and throttle housing had to be in contact with each other to create a ground to keep that brake light from staying on. Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2024 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by HRshuvvnStuff
Just did and when I turned the Ignition on, the brake light was off. When I plugged it back in, the brake light came on again. Does that point to a faulty rear brake switch? Don't mean to ask simple questions, I am just not very mechanically inclined when it comes to motorcycles and electrical stuff.
Hi mate. With the rear switch, get a new one, they're easy to fit, I've replaced 3 on my lowrider over the past 6 years or so. They get ruined down there. Just unscrew it and have the new one set up as a little fluid will come out, screw it in, connect and clean the electrical connections, put a little lithium grease around it and re bleed the rear brake. You won't need to get HD to bleed the ABS as it won't be activated. Just re bleed it. Hope this helps. Also with the front master cylinder. Pull the brake lever off, and squirm some silicon spray on to the little plastic piston cover, and move the piston in and out and it should release itself if it hasn't been damaged. (You can even pull the brake lever back and spray onto the piston and use the lever )Sometimes a little bit of seepage of fluid is seen and that's the time to rebuild. The kit comes as a complete kit and is easy to fit. You don't have to activate the ABS. Take the cap off, drain the reservoir and have the new fluid ready, cover everything as that stuff gets everywhere, get a small screwdriver and hoke out the rubber seal around the piston cover, pull out the piston and get a pair of pliers and pull out the whole piston and spring etc. Clean up everything with brake cleaner, get the new piston, grease the rubbers, and replace everything into the cylinder. Take care not to damage the rubbers. Refill the reservoir and bleed the brakes taking care to keep the reservoir topped up and don't let it get empty. Use a Mity Vac. They are excellent for brake bleeding
 

Last edited by victorlonsdale25@gmail.com; Dec 4, 2024 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Extra information
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