Heat Cycling Big Bore Install
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Unreconstructed
If the OP has nearby access to a good tuner the new motor can be "broken in", i.e., good ring seal and tuned all in one session; done. One heat cycle for about a minute to listen for strange noises and leaks then off tot the dyno. Even if the bike has to be trailered to the dyno, one session and ride; just avoid stupid **** as has been said. Any good break in oil will do; I have had good luck with Shell Rotella 15W40. Dump oil and filter at 100 miles and again at 500 miles then change oil/filter at appropriate intervals.
Letting the dyno tuner break it in is definitely an option, just make sure they are renowned to some degree. Also I know a lot of people like to use Rotella in there bikes and for the initial run/heat cycles I am sure it is fine but long term use that oil isn't good for these engines because of the amount of detergents added for the excessively dirty environment diesels run into. It has a tendency to wash away the good carbon build up the motor needs to have.
I had mine tuned by Mike at V-Tech Motorsports up in Ramsey, but it appears they've since closed. I know there used to be a guy at Faribault HD that was highly recommended (Jason?) but no idea if he's still around, or if dealers can even tune bikes anymore. Other names I remember being recommended from back when I was researching was Mike Roland out west in Watertown, Tony at Boar House in Lino Lake, and B&A in Blaine. No idea if any of those guys are still active.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3,130
Likes: 1,917
From: Unreconstructed
I had mine tuned by Mike at V-Tech Motorsports up in Ramsey, but it appears they've since closed. I know there used to be a guy at Faribault HD that was highly recommended (Jason?) but no idea if he's still around, or if dealers can even tune bikes anymore. Other names I remember being recommended from back when I was researching was Mike Roland out west in Watertown, Tony at Boar House in Lino Lake, and B&A in Blaine. No idea if any of those guys are still active.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Letting the dyno tuner break it in is definitely an option, just make sure they are renowned to some degree. Also I know a lot of people like to use Rotella in there bikes and for the initial run/heat cycles I am sure it is fine but long term use that oil isn't good for these engines because of the amount of detergents added for the excessively dirty environment diesels run into. It has a tendency to wash away the good carbon build up the motor needs to have.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
Maybe they figure the only way to get a hysterical woman to stop crying, is a slap in the face. It's what they did in the old movies
We definitely aren't talking about a lot of deposits, very little in fact.
I know it's not apples to apples but in the 2 stroke world it's called piston wash, if you ever pulled a head and didn't have carbon build up in the center of your piston it was a tall tell sign you are running too rich. When you are jetted properly a pattern will start to develop where the intake and exhaust ports are at. A really experienced mechanic or tuner can use that to know exactly what the carbs are doing if the motor is otherwise healthy.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Don't worry about it.. It's not related to the thread and not important.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Aug 6, 2024 at 08:30 PM. Reason: not
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
You right his post had nothing to do with this thread.
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From: san antonio
Letting the dyno tuner break it in is definitely an option, just make sure they are renowned to some degree. Also I know a lot of people like to use Rotella in there bikes and for the initial run/heat cycles I am sure it is fine but long term use that oil isn't good for these engines because of the amount of detergents added for the excessively dirty environment diesels run into. It has a tendency to wash away the good carbon build up the motor needs to have.
See post #26 on the deposits.