Internal Fasteners
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2019
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Internal Fasteners
I've gone over my bike, top to bottom and front to back and have converted just about every fastener I can to ARP 12pt stainless. Before anyone rips on me, I like the way they look, and I love uniformity.
Anyway, here's the question. I am doing a 110 big bore kit this winter and while I'm in there I'm planning to replace all the bolts I can with ARP as well. I noticed that the ARP's that Feuling sends with their cam plates, etc. are black oxidized and not stainless. Would the bolt finish make any difference when it's internal? So far, every replacement bolt I have waiting on the bench is stainless.
Thanks for the input.
Anyway, here's the question. I am doing a 110 big bore kit this winter and while I'm in there I'm planning to replace all the bolts I can with ARP as well. I noticed that the ARP's that Feuling sends with their cam plates, etc. are black oxidized and not stainless. Would the bolt finish make any difference when it's internal? So far, every replacement bolt I have waiting on the bench is stainless.
Thanks for the input.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,219
From: San Diego, CA
I've gone over my bike, top to bottom and front to back and have converted just about every fastener I can to ARP 12pt stainless. Before anyone rips on me, I like the way they look, and I love uniformity.
Anyway, here's the question. I am doing a 110 big bore kit this winter and while I'm in there I'm planning to replace all the bolts I can with ARP as well. I noticed that the ARP's that Feuling sends with their cam plates, etc. are black oxidized and not stainless. Would the bolt finish make any difference when it's internal? So far, every replacement bolt I have waiting on the bench is stainless.
Thanks for the input.
I switch my bike's to ARP 12pt stainless fasteners too. I do it for the looks, and because I find the 12 pt fasteners easier to remove on the derby cover and other engine covers than the hex head fasteners.
As far as on the cam plate, I have always used the OEM fasteners, with the exception of changing the two dowel position fasteners to studs with 12pt nuts. It was pointed out on a tech site I read, that due to the dowels, those bolts don't engage as many threads as the non-dowel bolts do. Changing to studs removes the possibility of stripping out those bolts. While it's not a common occurrence, it does happen from time to time.
To answer your specific question, since the cam plate fasteners are not visible once the engine is reassembled, they are constantly bathed in oil, and not exposed to the weather, I wouldn't hesitate using the ARP black anodized bolts supplied by Fueling with their cam plate.
FWIW...here's the doweling bolt conversion to studs w/12 pt nuts:
Last edited by hattitude; Sep 9, 2024 at 10:46 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,219
From: San Diego, CA
Not sure the stresses on cam plate bolts approach the outer limits of any of the bolts mentioned...
But I'm not a machinist or a metallurgist... so I could be wrong...
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Directly above the center of the Earth
12 pt bolts are the best way to go. They are the last type of bolt head to ever strip. Period. They give the easiest ways to connect to the head from strange angles, etc using extensions and such on one's ratchets by only making you move a small amount vs a six pt bolt. You just have to make sure that the proper *grade* of 12 pt bolt is replacing the old bolt or you can screw yourself royally.
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