I was under the impression that had already been done, it should have been one of the first things checked.

 

The transmission shift lever is tight, no slop. I have not checked the shift pawl. Good idea, I will do that.

 

I'd be interested to see what you find. I've never done more to a transmission than remove one to have it rebuilt.

 

If it turns out to be an internal issue used complete takeout transmissions from a reputable dismantler are a good way to buy a stock replacement. That tends to work out better (and equal or cheaper) then replacing parts in a malfunctioning gearbox and hoping the assembly behaves itself. I prefer stock boxes complete so I get everything as it came from the factory. They go ~450 bucks plus shipping via Ebay sellers with thousands of good ratings.

If you want the latest factory five speed guts a Twinkie five speed will swap minus the case but then ya get to buy a trans gasket and seal kit. Easy way to get all the minor parts if using your original case is buy a complete non-Dyna gearbox then sell the case and leftovers but there are plenty of Dyna takeouts available. The five speeds are excellent transmissions but some bikes are ridden hard enough to make them misbehave.

It's wise to have a factory parts catalog for your Dyna which are free downloads from the Service Information Portal. Fast way in without entering your own VIN is Google something like "Dyna SIP parts catalog" which gets hits like

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....nContent=false

but any will get you started. Then enter "1996 Dyna parts" in the search box and this will be listed.

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....inContent=true

To save to your computer or tablet just print it to a .pdf file using the icon at top right of the page. Do the same for the parent bike of any donor box. I download everything I can find for each Harley or major part thereof including adjacent years and different models for easy comparison.
Being able to print off pages to write on beats trashing a dead tree manual. If you want paper pages for a task and don't own a printer any copy shop or office supply can run them off for you.

This Baker video is well done and though it covers a six speed swap the five speed R&I is basically the same so you'll get a good idea of what's inside:

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Of course if you replace the complete gearbox that's simpler and you can dissect the old trans at leisure. When you have a gearbox out that's a good time to inspect your swingarm hardware. Search this forum for "swingarm" posts as there are plenty of threads.

 

I am well acquainted with the H-D SIP, I have it bookmarked. I also have the OEM Manual and Part Catalog, which I prefer and find quicker.

At 34K miles on a bike that looks every inch to have been well cared for, I am not quite ready to think about replacing the tranny. I may eventually come to that conclusion, but I will jump off that bridge when we come to it. I need to get familiar it anyway, as I have never been inside a Dyna gearbox before. Hopefully it's not beaten within an inch.

Let me get my head around the shifter pawl arrangement first, see where that goes.

 

I would say fixing the gear box is a lot more important than "front brakes rebuild/replacement". If it's making that ratcheting noise and slipping into gear when you don't expect it, you shouldn't be riding it, and so don't need brakes. If you do ride it you will do more damage.

 

Would it be OK if I did the transmission work and the brakes at the same time? And is it cool if rather than go whole hog at this juncture I got inside and looked around a bit first? I sure hope so, because that is what I'm doing, what I can afford.

I did the brakes this afternoon, and I'm boning up on the shifter pawl adjustment tonight. I'll chime in when I know something from that. That was a good suggestion that I squarely missed. Hence, my asking you guys.

 

Pulled the inner/outer cases, sprocket, top cover, etc. Had a go with the offset adjuster screw, which is NOT an Allen head as I have read a few times. It's a small hex bolt. Anyway, the shifter and pawl acts normally on upshift, with about the spring resistance you'd expect. But on downshift it is a dead fish with almost no spring resistance or return force. If I press the shifter CW a little, and it stays there with the pawl touching (or almost) the shifting peg. Thinking worn or damaged spring?

So, good reason to pull my first transmission and do a freshen up. All I currently have is a Baker transmission main seal. Believe this means pulling the spacer/race, do I need to replace it? Also, should I replace that bearing? Would be great to be able to order all at once to minimize down time.

Also, someone mentioned while in there, time to do the swing arm bushings.

 

So your saying that the shift pawl, when down shifting will not spring back up to it's centered neutral position? If so, yes a new spring is necessary. Or the Baker shift pawl assembly. It has a much better spring. If it did break make sure you find all the pieces, could be the ratcheting sound your hearing.

Your going to need to pull the IPB race (special tool HD-34902a) and a Sprocket shaft nut Socket (special tool HD-94660-37b) after market work well and are a lot cheaper.. If there is no need to pull the Main Drive Gear, MGD, then I wouldn't bother with the Bearing replacement. they are quite resilient. While the gear set is out, spin the MDG, it should be very quiet. If there is a whirring sound you will need to replace.

You won't need the locking tool for the sprocket nut removal. Remove the shift drum and lock the shaft down by sliding 2 shift forks into gear. This will lock the shafts allowing you to remove the sprocket nut.

Also while apart get new ball bearings for the clutch release ramp. The stock ones are .375". If you get 10 mm bearings (.393" ) it will release the clutch pack a greater distance for smoother shifting. Stock throw was .068" separation. It went to .084" separation with the 10 mmm *****. Here's a video I made.

 

I am waiting on the race removal tool. Once I get it removed, the gear set is ready for removal. The shift drum and forks look good, so they are cleaned up and are going back in when it's ready. The pawl assy looks pretty good as well, but since I am not sure about that, I will replace it while I'm in there with new OEM. The Baker one is too rich for my blood at this juncture.

Now that I can get eyes on the internals of this tranny, I feel more relaxed about it, because it really doesn't look all that bad. I plan on replacing all the bearings, I count 6, and seal/gaskets. I'm a big believer in disassembly, deep cleaning, lube, and reassembly/adjustment going a long way in rectifying some issues. Especially when something is hanging up. I will clean the bejeesus out of the case, too.