Soo, 9000 miles, bearing sounded like cheap roller skate wheel. Scar on race and scars on bearing. While in there stator rotor bolts are getting tacked.. baker going in its a very snug fit on shaft but it goes on with a little wigglle wiggle to get it started. On a side note, compensator looks new still..

 

What year and model bike you talking about?

 

My 2007 FLH, installed two factory, then baker, now allballz. Last time switched to latest Harley tensioner. I wonder if that is issue.

I had Baker on there after first one. Awful tight. Some say they admitted it and have different shim.

Next time I may go manual but that sucks with no inspection cover

 

So, are you asking for any suggestions or are you just complaining?
I don't think anyone has a better design than OEM.
The Chain adjuster is usually the initial culprit..
Also would help to know what bike, What build, How you ride... Because it all makes a difference..

 

06 Wide Glide, stock, bought bike used. I also am putting in the B tensioner instead of he A original, however chain did not appear overtight. It all went fairly simply. A little heat from the heat gun to get old race moving but aside from that its apart. Just pressed in Baker Sealed bearing and new seal today so back together it goes. Its not gonna be a high mile bike nor will it be rode hard as my wife will ride it 90% of time but she doesn't know what to listen for so trying to get it near bullet proof for whatever that means and suspect this bearing will go as well in 8-10k miles but for her that will take some time. If this goes earlier than that OEM back in next time.

 

Did you have the older Baker with the metal dust cover type or the full on sealed bearing they sell now? My opinion, I don't think its just wear issue, I think its contamination. Primary oil is inherently dirty from micro clutch debris and even some moisture. couple that with a bad setup to start with, weak smaller bearing and your gonna have bearing issues.

 

06 Wide Glide

 

Sealed.

Problem with harley auto tensioner is when it ratchets under load, does not release. Doc Harley said to pull cover off and readjust. BS. Stick long screwdriver in from primary to see if tight

 

Big problem I see ,is that the case bearing channel still has the top weep channel to allow primary fluid to get at least to the channel in the primary case,
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/V0YAA...n~/s-l1600.jpg

But the design of the bearing and how its install, does not allow a great deal of that oil to get to the bearing really to lube and keep it flushed, even with the C clip installed corectly..
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/aeEAA...JTt/s-l960.png

Hence the concept is fluid comes into the top case weep channel, should be a slot in the bearing id side of the case bearing channel to flow that oil to the rear seal side of the bearing, and that oil should be coming in the bearing, to be flushed back towards the clutch baskets side, to keep the bearing lubed and flushing the oil through it from the primary oil sling in the first place.
Huge note here, when you install the bearing retainer C clip, its top opening has to be installed TDC to oil groove channel, so it not blocking the weep channel to oil groove in the case. A lot of people get this wrong, and what lube that should be at least getting to the bearing, is not from the start.
So look at the diagram, see where oil weep hole is in the case, where the weep groove is in bearing channel to allow oil to flow to seal side, and make dam sure when installing the C clip, you have its top opening between the tab, centered on that oil groove.
https://images.imagessite.com/OEM_IM...D07FLHR019.gif

So if you want to solve the problem with better flow oil flow to the bearing, then EDM spot drill the center of bearing outer race so you have channel to needle bearings as well, make sure that bottom side of weep channel is deep enough to allow oil flow to seal side of bearing, and mount drilled bearing race upwards in channel in line with weep channel in the case so the slung oil can flow into the bearing as well.

This allows the oil that is coming down the case weep channel from the oil sling, so the flows into the bearing to lube and flush it more instead.

Also, HD went on some power kick with using thicker primary fluid (guessing due to bearing not getting enough fluid through it from the weep),
but truth is, all that is needed for primary fluid, is thinner ATF or 10-40 in the first place, since allows for better flushing where needed, and as temp transfer fluid to keep the stator from over heating as well.

As for sealed bearing, yes, no, maybe, but it channel weep groove is deep enough for oil to flow past outside of race, C slip installed correctly so oil can flow from weep groove past it to seal side of bearing, and fluid is thin enough to allow proper lubing and flushing of bearing, then bearing IPB should last a long time.
The extra edm drilled channel into the bearing, just give the bearing an extra place to get more oil through the bearing as well.

So again, slung oil needs to get from this hole in case for IPB,
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/V0YAA...n~/s-l1600.jpg
through the Top opening in clip 15 from the groove channel above the bearing to the back side of the bearing before the seal (C clip spaces the rear seal to allow for the fluid drop down), so the lube can enter the back side of the bearing, and flush the old oil fluid out and .new slung fluid to the clutch side of the bearing back in the case.


And to note, is a lot cheaper to replace the input primary sleeve (14) as it wears during a bearing change (that the bearing should out the seal if it getting weep lubed correctly), then is to replace an entire transmission input shaft when sealed bearing goes south, and its inner race to shaft 22 does some major marring/carnage instead.

 

There not problems with bearings in 5 speeds. I changed at 35 and 90 cause primary was off. Second bearing is what ever cometic sells