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Hey yall. I have a 2002 Low Rider. I had sprocket bolts shear off in the hub and there is a little damage to the lip that sticks out where the bearings go in. I have chased the broken bolts out and cleaned the threads. Curious about the lip. Just wanted advice on if this is a big issue or if I shouldnt sweat it. Thanks for the input.
That looks a lot like what happens when your vehicle isnt aligned correctly. There are plenty of write ups on vehicle alignment in the dyna forum. If your rear wheel is tilted even a few degrees off of 90 then you are stressing the fck out of those crap harley bolts, which also used to be a common problem. The 7/16x14 bolts they used and maybe still do, are garbage. Not only is the bolt mostly threaded, there's threads going through the pulley and into the hub. The hub itself has a shoulder, so if your wheel is slightly off, there's no bolt shoulder for hub to rest on, instead it's just held on by about 1/2" or less of the end of the bolt, and the bolt head with the captive washer. If your bike has a pully and belt check your pulley for oblong holes. Totally Fd up situation. If that's happened you need a new wheel and pully at minimum. I would suggest using arp or any grade 8 bolt that has a shoulder going into hub and the threads starting where....the hub hole threads begin. And check vehicle alignment. Hope that helped, good luck
That looks a lot like what happens when your vehicle isnt aligned correctly. There are plenty of write ups on vehicle alignment in the dyna forum. If your rear wheel is tilted even a few degrees off of 90 then you are stressing the fck out of those crap harley bolts, which also used to be a common problem. The 7/16x14 bolts they used and maybe still do, are garbage. Not only is the bolt mostly threaded, there's threads going through the pulley and into the hub. The hub itself has a shoulder, so if your wheel is slightly off, there's no bolt shoulder for hub to rest on, instead it's just held on by about 1/2" or less of the end of the bolt, and the bolt head with the captive washer. If your bike has a pully and belt check your pulley for oblong holes. Totally Fd up situation. If that's happened you need a new wheel and pully at minimum. I would suggest using arp or any grade 8 bolt that has a shoulder going into hub and the threads starting where....the hub hole threads begin. And check vehicle alignment. Hope that helped, good luck
How does vehicle alignment effect the pulley coming loose when it needs to be aligned to the tranny pulley? If that is off, how do you change it?
That looks a lot like what happens when your vehicle isnt aligned correctly. There are plenty of write ups on vehicle alignment in the dyna forum. If your rear wheel is tilted even a few degrees off of 90 then you are stressing the fck out of those crap harley bolts, which also used to be a common problem. The 7/16x14 bolts they used and maybe still do, are garbage. Not only is the bolt mostly threaded, there's threads going through the pulley and into the hub. The hub itself has a shoulder, so if your wheel is slightly off, there's no bolt shoulder for hub to rest on, instead it's just held on by about 1/2" or less of the end of the bolt, and the bolt head with the captive washer. If your bike has a pully and belt check your pulley for oblong holes. Totally Fd up situation. If that's happened you need a new wheel and pully at minimum. I would suggest using arp or any grade 8 bolt that has a shoulder going into hub and the threads starting where....the hub hole threads begin. And check vehicle alignment. Hope that helped, good luck
Forget it .
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 16, 2025 at 07:18 PM.
Hey yall. I have a 2002 Low Rider. I had sprocket bolts shear off in the hub and there is a little damage to the lip that sticks out where the bearings go in. I have chased the broken bolts out and cleaned the threads. Curious about the lip. Just wanted advice on if this is a big issue or if I shouldnt sweat it. Thanks for the input.
That lip is ur hub centric ring. Meaning it keeps everything "balanced and centered" on ur wheel
Technically sure, you could re use it. But u shouldnt lol replace it and keep that one for burnouts. Hows your pulley/sproket look?
How does vehicle alignment effect the pulley coming loose when it needs to be aligned to the tranny pulley? If that is off, how do you change it?
Blue bob did a write up that I follow to this day. If your vehicle isn't aligned properly it can sit at an angle "" that angle in quotes is an extreme angle, it doesn't have to be that extreme. Just a few degrees like 85 instead of 90. When you ride with your bikes rear wheel at an angle it will start stressing the stretch to fit harley oem bolts. The bolts which are 7/16th x 14 the threads start about 7/8" from the captive washer. The pulley is about 1" thick. Therefore the threaded part thats inside the pulley has a lot of wiggle room, combine that with no contact with the wheel hub where a bolt shoulder is supposed to contact. You have close to .5" of threaded bolt contacting nothing and your rear wheel is tilted. You installed the bolts in a spider pattern, up to ___ ft lbs, then back bolt off part of a turn then tighten to final torque. Stretch to fit one use bolt. That weak *** no shoulder bolt is now what is holding your hub to your pully and outer hub where the bolt head is, over time the pulley holes loosen as the grade 8 bolt begins to rely on the weak aluminum pulley and once the pulley stretches your red loctite bolts are holding strong in the aluminum hub, but that .5" of 7/16" threaded which is more like 3/8" of solid rod , despite being grade 8 is not enough to hold up the weight of the rider , possibly a passenger and the 700lb of the bike. Blue bob wrote a thread about this. Even if your bike is aligned properly I would highly suggest using grade 8 or arp bolts that have a shoulder length greater than the pulley, so the shoulder sits in the part of the hub that is made for the shoulder. Blue bob bushed out his pulley and uses stainless steel to press into enlarged pulley hole to accommodate the arp bolt shoulder but with almost no wiggle room. The last part is making a mark, score it or use permanent marker to see if your bolt moves. So align the bike and upgrade those bolts and that solves that problem. Luckily there will be more problems to come, like building a 110 and never finding the leak, or warming up your bike and doing a compression test then stripping out a spark plug hole on your ported and polished 1200 heads, and so much more. The pinion shaft runout going to 7 thousandth and the joy of splitting cases. But your wheels will be good to gizzo
Blue bob did a write up that I follow to this day. If your vehicle isn't aligned properly it can sit at an angle "" that angle in quotes is an extreme angle, it doesn't have to be that extreme. Just a few degrees like 85 instead of 90. When you ride with your bikes rear wheel at an angle it will start stressing the stretch to fit harley oem bolts. The bolts which are 7/16th x 14 the threads start about 7/8" from the captive washer. The pulley is about 1" thick. Therefore the threaded part thats inside the pulley has a lot of wiggle room, combine that with no contact with the wheel hub where a bolt shoulder is supposed to contact. You have close to .5" of threaded bolt contacting nothing and your rear wheel is tilted. You installed the bolts in a spider pattern, up to ___ ft lbs, then back bolt off part of a turn then tighten to final torque. Stretch to fit one use bolt. That weak *** no shoulder bolt is now what is holding your hub to your pully and outer hub where the bolt head is, over time the pulley holes loosen as the grade 8 bolt begins to rely on the weak aluminum pulley and once the pulley stretches your red loctite bolts are holding strong in the aluminum hub, but that .5" of 7/16" threaded which is more like 3/8" of solid rod , despite being grade 8 is not enough to hold up the weight of the rider , possibly a passenger and the 700lb of the bike. Blue bob wrote a thread about this. Even if your bike is aligned properly I would highly suggest using grade 8 or arp bolts that have a shoulder length greater than the pulley, so the shoulder sits in the part of the hub that is made for the shoulder. Blue bob bushed out his pulley and uses stainless steel to press into enlarged pulley hole to accommodate the arp bolt shoulder but with almost no wiggle room. The last part is making a mark, score it or use permanent marker to see if your bolt moves. So align the bike and upgrade those bolts and that solves that problem. Luckily there will be more problems to come, like building a 110 and never finding the leak, or warming up your bike and doing a compression test then stripping out a spark plug hole on your ported and polished 1200 heads, and so much more. The pinion shaft runout going to 7 thousandth and the joy of splitting cases. But your wheels will be good to gizzo
I'm calling bullshit......
I'm putting 130 lbs of torque to the stock setup on my 2013 Street Bob..
And you can quote me on this,
if the owner of there motorcycle, takes the time to do the proper maintenance and proper torquing, they should never have an issue..
Especially compared to the original posters damage, there is extreme damage to that rim that should have been noticed before it got that bad.. It just doesn't go like that, all of a sudden..............
Blue bob did a write up that I follow to this day. If your vehicle isn't aligned properly it can sit at an angle "" that angle in quotes is an extreme angle, it doesn't have to be that extreme. Just a few degrees like 85 instead of 90. When you ride with your bikes rear wheel at an angle it will start stressing the stretch to fit harley oem bolts. The bolts which are 7/16th x 14 the threads start about 7/8" from the captive washer. The pulley is about 1" thick. Therefore the threaded part thats inside the pulley has a lot of wiggle room, combine that with no contact with the wheel hub where a bolt shoulder is supposed to contact. You have close to .5" of threaded bolt contacting nothing and your rear wheel is tilted. You installed the bolts in a spider pattern, up to ___ ft lbs, then back bolt off part of a turn then tighten to final torque. Stretch to fit one use bolt. That weak *** no shoulder bolt is now what is holding your hub to your pully and outer hub where the bolt head is, over time the pulley holes loosen as the grade 8 bolt begins to rely on the weak aluminum pulley and once the pulley stretches your red loctite bolts are holding strong in the aluminum hub, but that .5" of 7/16" threaded which is more like 3/8" of solid rod , despite being grade 8 is not enough to hold up the weight of the rider , possibly a passenger and the 700lb of the bike. Blue bob wrote a thread about this. Even if your bike is aligned properly I would highly suggest using grade 8 or arp bolts that have a shoulder length greater than the pulley, so the shoulder sits in the part of the hub that is made for the shoulder. Blue bob bushed out his pulley and uses stainless steel to press into enlarged pulley hole to accommodate the arp bolt shoulder but with almost no wiggle room. The last part is making a mark, score it or use permanent marker to see if your bolt moves. So align the bike and upgrade those bolts and that solves that problem. Luckily there will be more problems to come, like building a 110 and never finding the leak, or warming up your bike and doing a compression test then stripping out a spark plug hole on your ported and polished 1200 heads, and so much more. The pinion shaft runout going to 7 thousandth and the joy of splitting cases. But your wheels will be good to gizzo
You still haven't explained how vehicle alignment effects the pulley.. It might have some effect on wheel bearings if the rear wheel runs at an angle to the rest of the bike but front to rear pulley alignment is the same no mater what..
How does vehicle alignment effect the pulley coming loose when it needs to be aligned to the tranny pulley? If that is off, how do you change it?
its a rubber mounted engine and the pulley is connected to the rear wheel, the wheel is attached to the swingarm, the swingarm is attached to the tranny and main engine case by a pivot bolt. Take out your stabilizer link, lengthen it by as much as possible reinstall and check alignment, if it looks like \ that its good to go and you should get the bolts off within 1000 miles
Last edited by expertwrenchthrower; Aug 25, 2025 at 08:32 PM.
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vehicle alignment
