Oil Bud
Very professional and well built with what looks like quality parts. Aftermarket probably doesn't come any better than that.
I would after installing it, mask off with news paper and rattle can flatblack the two lines there in front were visible to blend with his other lines on the YouTube bike.
Around $800. How is that price as compared to other options out there? Quality like that can't be cheap and it sure looks like you at least as the (my) saying goes, you're getting what you paid for there.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 18, 2026 at 06:59 AM.
Now I went with the ultra cool on the front with the chrome cover and force cooling(fans). So the only downside to that cooler that I can see would be, jacking the bike up and there’s no fans to force cool. The product guarantees to be bulletproof, so you don’t have to worry about puncturing it. Yes you will hardly see it so it should look better than my cooler. As far as whether you need an oil cooler or not, your engine has been highly modified. I would absolutely guarantee you need an oil cooler of some type. let your pocketbook, and heart be your guide.
As for the oil guys, synthetic oil is just way better than conventional oil. A person that doesn’t run synthetic today is just being dumb. My three whole combination is Amsoil, Red line, and Red line. Reason for Amsoil is because of testing. You have a better guarantee of getting what you’re paying for. If I could get three holes of Amsoil I would. Here and Lafayette it’s hard to get Amsoil. About Red line, the baseline how they build the oil is the toughest in the world. All my race toys get Red line. All daily cages get Pennzoil platinum. I and not a fan of one brand, depending on the needs is what I feel is the best bang for the buck. My diesels get Rotella T6, why because Rotella has extra cleaners. So to make a long story short. look into your oils to see which one fits your driving needs, then buy the one that’s best for your pocketbook. Beyond a doubt Red line is the toughest oil, but if you don’t race, why do you need a racing oil. For the other brands, they are all good oils if they’re synthetic. CONVENTIONAL oil is just outdated. Mobile one, royal purple, shell, and even Chevron are all good oils.
You have to first ask your self what is your needs. Some good oils aren’t designed for what you need. Big HD engine oil is not designed for a rice burners (all in one design). Then your environmental conditions will dictate the weight you can ride with. You’ll Texas and Arizona boys just took away my Amsoil because there’s no straight 50 weight.
So final thoughts- synthetic only, make sure it was built for you ride, riding style, environmental conditions, and a name you trust.
ITS YOUR RIDE LET NO ONE CONVINCE YOU OTHERWISE!
Last edited by autodog@aol.com; Mar 18, 2026 at 07:10 AM.
Yeah, that sounds a little high. Where are you measuring it?
The only frame of reference I have is my aircraft engine. The limit is 225 measured where it re-enters the engine (after all the cooling). Typical temperature increase through the engine is 40-50 degrees, so it could easily be coming out as high as 275. Keep in mind, the 225 limit was arrived at before there was such a thing as synthetic oil.
My concern with the one in the video is the radiator looks pretty fragile to me...
Last edited by John CC; Mar 18, 2026 at 08:04 AM.
Very professional and well built with what looks like quality parts. Aftermarket probably doesn't come any better than that.
I would after installing it, mask off with news paper and rattle can flatblack the two lines there in front were visible to blend with his other lines on the YouTube bike.
Around $800. How is that price as compared to other options out there? Quality like that can't be cheap and it sure looks like you at least as the (my) saying goes, you're getting what you paid for there.
Now I went with the ultra cool on the front with the chrome cover and force cooling(fans). So the only downside to that cooler that I can see would be, jacking the bike up and there’s no fans to force cool. The product guarantees to be bulletproof, so you don’t have to worry about puncturing it. Yes you will hardly see it so it should look better than my cooler. As far as whether you need an oil cooler or not, your engine has been highly modified. I would absolutely guarantee you need an oil cooler of some type. let your pocketbook, and heart be your guide.
As for the oil guys, synthetic oil is just way better than conventional oil. A person that doesn’t run synthetic today is just being dumb. My three whole combination is Amsoil, Red line, and Red line. Reason for Amsoil is because of testing. You have a better guarantee of getting what you’re paying for. If I could get three holes of Amsoil I would. Here and Lafayette it’s hard to get Amsoil. About Red line, the baseline how they build the oil is the toughest in the world. All my race toys get Red line. All daily cages get Pennzoil platinum. I and not a fan of one brand, depending on the needs is what I feel is the best bang for the buck. My diesels get Rotella T6, why because Rotella has extra cleaners. So to make a long story short. look into your oils to see which one fits your driving needs, then buy the one that’s best for your pocketbook. Beyond a doubt Red line is the toughest oil, but if you don’t race, why do you need a racing oil. For the other brands, they are all good oils if they’re synthetic. CONVENTIONAL oil is just outdated. Mobile one, royal purple, shell, and even Chevron are all good oils.
You have to first ask your self what is your needs. Some good oils aren’t designed for what you need. Big HD engine oil is not designed for a rice burners (all in one design). Then your environmental conditions will dictate the weight you can ride with. You’ll Texas and Arizona boys just took away my Amsoil because there’s no straight 50 weight.
So final thoughts- synthetic only, make sure it was built for you ride, riding style, environmental conditions, and a name you trust.
ITS YOUR RIDE LET NO ONE CONVINCE YOU OTHERWISE!
Yeah, that sounds a little high. Where are you measuring it?
The only frame of reference I have is my aircraft engine. The limit is 225 measured where it re-enters the engine (after all the cooling). Typical temperature increase through the engine is 40-50 degrees, so it could easily be coming out as high as 275. Keep in mind, the 225 limit was arrived at before there was such a thing as synthetic oil.
My concern with the one in the video is the radiator looks pretty fragile to me...
As far as durability, the unit is all aluminum, not coils and fins like a radiator. Dude shot it with a shotgun, and it still held 140lb or pressure.
Last edited by autodog@aol.com; Mar 18, 2026 at 12:46 PM.
Are you saying that the Oil Bud had a discount? I gave up all social media for Lent so I can't check.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
It looks like through history he use to offer it more often, even for St. Patrick's day.
We'll see if he offers anything for this spring.
Of course, your bike, your vision. Just something to think about.
Regarding the usefulness of an oil cooler, I put that one on when that bike had 5,000 miles on it. After putting on 100,000 miles in the New Mexico heat, it still had good compression and ran like a top when I sold it. I can't give any absolute evidence that the oil cooler was the reason for that longevity, but it certainly didn't hurt.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do.













