Winter storage procedures . . .
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
From: NH - Why not Minot, ND
Winter storage procedures . . .
I have a new '08 FXDC, and as of today it only has 550 miles on it. I'm located in northern (almost in canada) ND. Up here it's not abnormal for the temps to plummet to -70 degrees F or below (yes, that's a negative sign there) with the windchill. She's going to be stored in my garage, which is not heated.
Seeing as how I haven't reached HD's recommended mileage for the first service, should I still change out at least the oil and filter anyway? I understand that when they do that first service, it's mainly to be sure all the metal wear from the factory/break-in period gets filtered out. I'm mainly worried about having the fluids sitting in the bike, with the temps going from -70 or below back up to the +40's that condensation may form in the fluid housings which in turn brings water, which we all now that that water will freeze when it gets the chance, which expands asit turns to ice, which could crack the housings/make gaskets useless.
We do get a few nice days during the winter, but they maybe total a week in all. Not really worth starting her up, and taking her out.
Any suggestions???
Thanks,
-Olkie
Seeing as how I haven't reached HD's recommended mileage for the first service, should I still change out at least the oil and filter anyway? I understand that when they do that first service, it's mainly to be sure all the metal wear from the factory/break-in period gets filtered out. I'm mainly worried about having the fluids sitting in the bike, with the temps going from -70 or below back up to the +40's that condensation may form in the fluid housings which in turn brings water, which we all now that that water will freeze when it gets the chance, which expands asit turns to ice, which could crack the housings/make gaskets useless.
We do get a few nice days during the winter, but they maybe total a week in all. Not really worth starting her up, and taking her out.
Any suggestions???
Thanks,
-Olkie
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
From: NH - Why not Minot, ND
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
Good one!!! It took me 6 years to convince her to let me get a new bike, and now that I have it, she's getting a bit jealous. You should have seen her face last night when I called my bike "she"... ;-)
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
Yea Good old Mind Rot North Dakota. Left 2 years ago after spending 8 long years in that god forsaken place. At best you might be able to ride 5 months a years and 2 of those you will wear thermals.
Best thing to do is to add some Stabil to the fuel and run it for about 5 miles to make sure you get it throughout the fuel system. As far as the oil I would not worry about it but you need to change it come spring as over the winter with the temps fluxing a little up and down you will get a little condensation build up in the crankcase. Give it a good cleaning and wax job. Get a good cover and let it sit in the garage. Try not to bump into it with the snow blower either, don't ask me how I know that!
Best thing to do is to add some Stabil to the fuel and run it for about 5 miles to make sure you get it throughout the fuel system. As far as the oil I would not worry about it but you need to change it come spring as over the winter with the temps fluxing a little up and down you will get a little condensation build up in the crankcase. Give it a good cleaning and wax job. Get a good cover and let it sit in the garage. Try not to bump into it with the snow blower either, don't ask me how I know that!
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 791
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
easy:
1) Fill your gas tank "almost" full.
2) Ride the bike straight home or to wherever you are going to store it.
3) Change motor oil, primary, and tranny fluids. *Note: Do not confuse this with "draining" the fluids. Better to replace them with new fluids for storage. Empty is not good.
4)Disconnect the spark plug wires, and remove the plugs. Spray fogging oil into each plug opening. Turn the bike over to circulate the fogger thru the cylinders a bit.Put the plugs back in and reconnect the wires.
5) HD or Kuryakyn or even Radio Shack make a cheap "smart charger." get one. Disconnect yor battery from the bike, and connect the smartcharger.
6) Spray a bit of wd-40 into the end of each muffler. This will displace moisture inside the exhaust and inhibit corrosion.
7) Cover the bike with a "breathable" cover. Don't use your outdoor cover as this will trap condensation under it.
That's it. The best part of all of this is it is so easy to do yourself, and in the spring, you connect your battery, take it out, and start 'er up. It may have a bit of odor after starting from the wd-40, but it will burn off quickly. Go for a long ride!!!
Been doing this procedure for years with every bike I have ever owned and it has never done me wrong.
1) Fill your gas tank "almost" full.
2) Ride the bike straight home or to wherever you are going to store it.
3) Change motor oil, primary, and tranny fluids. *Note: Do not confuse this with "draining" the fluids. Better to replace them with new fluids for storage. Empty is not good.
4)Disconnect the spark plug wires, and remove the plugs. Spray fogging oil into each plug opening. Turn the bike over to circulate the fogger thru the cylinders a bit.Put the plugs back in and reconnect the wires.
5) HD or Kuryakyn or even Radio Shack make a cheap "smart charger." get one. Disconnect yor battery from the bike, and connect the smartcharger.
6) Spray a bit of wd-40 into the end of each muffler. This will displace moisture inside the exhaust and inhibit corrosion.
7) Cover the bike with a "breathable" cover. Don't use your outdoor cover as this will trap condensation under it.
That's it. The best part of all of this is it is so easy to do yourself, and in the spring, you connect your battery, take it out, and start 'er up. It may have a bit of odor after starting from the wd-40, but it will burn off quickly. Go for a long ride!!!
Been doing this procedure for years with every bike I have ever owned and it has never done me wrong.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 791
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
oh yeah.....forgot. Add to 1). Add fuel stabilizer to your almost full tank.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 791
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
I live in New Hampshire. My bike and I are no stranger to long, cold winters.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 5,426
Likes: 0
From: Okinawa, Japan
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
ORIGINAL: flynavy
easy:
1) Fill your gas tank "almost" full.
2) Ride the bike straight home or to wherever you are going to store it.
3) Change motor oil, primary, and tranny fluids. *Note: Do not confuse this with "draining" the fluids. Better to replace them with new fluids for storage. Empty is not good.
4)Disconnect the spark plug wires, and remove the plugs. Spray fogging oil into each plug opening. Turn the bike over to circulate the fogger thru the cylinders a bit.Put the plugs back in and reconnect the wires.
5) HD or Kuryakyn or even Radio Shack make a cheap "smart charger." get one. Disconnect yor battery from the bike, and connect the smartcharger.
6) Spray a bit of wd-40 into the end of each muffler. This will displace moisture inside the exhaust and inhibit corrosion.
7) Cover the bike with a "breathable" cover. Don't use your outdoor cover as this will trap condensation under it.
That's it. The best part of all of this is it is so easy to do yourself, and in the spring, you connect your battery, take it out, and start 'er up. It may have a bit of odor after starting from the wd-40, but it will burn off quickly. Go for a long ride!!!
Been doing this procedure for years with every bike I have ever owned and it has never done me wrong.
easy:
1) Fill your gas tank "almost" full.
2) Ride the bike straight home or to wherever you are going to store it.
3) Change motor oil, primary, and tranny fluids. *Note: Do not confuse this with "draining" the fluids. Better to replace them with new fluids for storage. Empty is not good.
4)Disconnect the spark plug wires, and remove the plugs. Spray fogging oil into each plug opening. Turn the bike over to circulate the fogger thru the cylinders a bit.Put the plugs back in and reconnect the wires.
5) HD or Kuryakyn or even Radio Shack make a cheap "smart charger." get one. Disconnect yor battery from the bike, and connect the smartcharger.
6) Spray a bit of wd-40 into the end of each muffler. This will displace moisture inside the exhaust and inhibit corrosion.
7) Cover the bike with a "breathable" cover. Don't use your outdoor cover as this will trap condensation under it.
That's it. The best part of all of this is it is so easy to do yourself, and in the spring, you connect your battery, take it out, and start 'er up. It may have a bit of odor after starting from the wd-40, but it will burn off quickly. Go for a long ride!!!
Been doing this procedure for years with every bike I have ever owned and it has never done me wrong.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 644
Likes: 0
From: NE. Pennsylvania
RE: Winter storage procedures . . .
[sm=boosign.gif][sm=WTFsgign.gif][sm=smiley26.gif][sm=smiley19.gif]Sorry guys I'm in denial of winter coming,,, I can't believe we are already discussing winter. Well, Thanks for sharing your storage methods. I will put them to use for sure. But Im hoping to get at least 2 more months in here in PA. Onlymother nature will make that call. We don't get minus 7 and below, just alot of soupy crap.
Cheers
[sm=icon_cheers.gif]
Joe
Cheers
[sm=icon_cheers.gif]
Joe