I just want to know who changes there oil now before storage and who waites till spring ? For I have heard a ton of "I change my oil when I put it away cause of the acididy in the used oil will hurt the engine" or I change my oil in the spring so I get any condasation out that may have built up over the winter ? SO what is the best plan here for I don't have money to wast.

 

Greetings,

New Hampshire owner here. I have been storing my bikes for years up here in New England, and have done a multitude of **** procedures to my metrics over time, some panned out to be practical, some panned out to be overkill.

I have founf the MoCo and the industry who knows the HD so well to be the most practical and sensible when it comes to winter storage.

Yes, absolutley change all lubricants just BEFORE storage. The acidityapproach is only one reason, there are others, but suffice to say that clean, uncontaminated oils do hold up better and preserve better to temperature changes, corrosion, etc.

Remove your battery and check it for any leaks, obvious damage et. and put it on a smart charger. HD, Kuryakyn, Radio Shack - they all sell them for under a hundred bucks. They trickle charge when necessary, then when the battery is at full charge, they monitor and only trikle if the cell falls below a certain range. Waaaaaay better than filling up with water, then "hoping" the batt will start the bike in the spring.

Depending on where you store, you should spray the inside of the exhaust tubes with wd-40 to inhibit moisture. Then put some rags in the exhaust ends to prevent any little critters from making a bed and breakfast in there.

IF you can get the wheels off the ground, it is a bit better, but not necessary. Fill your gas takn a little more than 3/4 full as close to your storage spot as you can, and once there, add sta-bil or any other fuel stabilizer that will help keep the properties of your fuel stabile from temperature changes and just sitting. The last thin I have always done, is remove the spark plugs, and spray fogging oil into the chambers. Then try to turn the bike over once or twice to circulate it into the cylanders/valves, etc. This also prevents any moisture or other contaminants form invading those very important, close-tolerance chambers.

In the spring, while a lot of riders are messing around with getting the thing started, getting there fluids changed, etc. You simply re-install the battery, re-insert and connect the plugs, remove the rags from the exhaust, and fire her up. May be a bit stinky from the wd-40 in the pipes burning off, but one ride will clear them 100%. Now you have new fluids and are ready to just ride....

 

Oil and filtershould be changed prior to storage acids from combustion are suspended in old oil and can be harmful during long term storage do engine and trans. Make sure tank is full of fresh stabilized fuel.If bike will be sitting on ground fill tires to max psi as noted on tire. If bike will be stored in heated location hook up battery tender if not remove battery and hook to tender inside.

 

A MoCo rep I spoke with a lot last year recommends not completely filling the tank. The sta-bil will take care of any expansion issues, etc. Matter of fact this why is should be not quite full in the first place.

Can't imagine though that it would be that much of a difference if it was full.

The main thing is to add the stabilizer for long-term storage.

 

I was always told to go full tank to minimize condensation, of course that was in reference to storing a car but it seams like sound advice.

 

Well I have stored my V45 for many years but was not sure about the HD so I quess there is no real diffreance as far as winter storage,

 

Change oil for sure before storage. I change mine again after I get it out just in case there is some condensation from the temp changes. Shouldn't be any problems but the $20 for an oil change is worth a little extra insurance to me.

 

hey 96 when you put the stabilizer in the fuel, mix real well, short little ride helps, besides you have to warm the oil prior to changing. here's something i've heard and it goes either way, prior to shut down turn off the gas and let the engine drain the carb float bowl or you can just turn off the gas petcock. either way be sure you close that petcock. i've done all the other items for 5 years for the michigan winters with no problems in the spring.

 

Glad I don't live as far north as some of you guys. It gets cold here to but I still get her out at least once a week for 20 or 30 miles.

 

What flynavy said for sure! MA rider here! The only other thing I do is to 'fog ' the engine. I am a boat captain and whenever we winterize boat engines we' fog' the engine. 2 ways to do it. No.1 start the engine (stabil in the gas) No. 2 turn off the gas . No. 3 just before the engine quits, spray 'fogging oil' (sold at all marine stores) into the carb or air cleaner.

The other way is to run the engine with stabil in the gas tank, turn off the gas and let the engine quit. Then pull the plugs, spray in the fog oil, and spin the engine a couple times. .
Fogging oil has a high 'stick ' factor and will coat the pistons, valve, cylinder walls, etc and protect from rust.

In the spring, just start her up, the oil burns off right away.