FORK OIL CHANGE
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
Likes: 5,605
From: along the shore of Mishigami
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
look at the bottom of your forks, just above the axle on the trailing side of the fork. If you don't see a little drain screw to drain the old oil out then you are in for some work my friend. If the screw isn't there you might want too invest in a service manual. If the screw is there, loosen the and remove the fork caps (service one fork at a time) (also cover your gas tank) real slow and ready to grab on to the cap when the spring expands. Remove drain screw, drain oil, replace screw, add proper amount of your favorite fork oil, install fork cap (remember the spring will have to be compressed while starting cap) repeat for other side. good luck.If you remove both caps at the same time the bike WILL settle down and then it will be abear to get it back up.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
ORIGINAL: rejlaw
I was thinking of changing out the fork oil.
I have an 06 superglide.
Do you have to take the front wheel off
or can you drain the oil with it on?
I was thinking of changing out the fork oil.
I have an 06 superglide.
Do you have to take the front wheel off
or can you drain the oil with it on?
Oil "drains" out the top end of the fork pipes.
mud
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 129
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From:
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
Getting ready to do this myself. Service manual for my 06 calls for the fork legs to be removed. HD sells a fork tube holder that fits in a vise and clamps the fork tubes in rubber so you can work on them.
Don't remove those fork caps while the shocks are on the bike, at least I never would.While I like the idea of not having to tear apart my front end to do this I am not willing to risk letting that ratchet/wrench slip or the cap go flying into my tank.
We did a chrome upgrade to my buddy's fatboy, laid the forks on a table pointed at a wall and the damn caps went right though the wall.
I asked the local indy about how he got them off and he has an assistant drape a sturdy towel over the wrench/ratchet. While he unscrews the assistant pulls the towel down as hard as he can to keep the caps from flying off. You will also need the fork to be in the fully extended position when you try to put it back together so you don't have to compress that spring any more than necessary.
by the way, my 06 low rider doesnt have the drain screw (just checked) so the forks have to come out so I can tip them over and get the damn oil out....
Don't remove those fork caps while the shocks are on the bike, at least I never would.While I like the idea of not having to tear apart my front end to do this I am not willing to risk letting that ratchet/wrench slip or the cap go flying into my tank.
We did a chrome upgrade to my buddy's fatboy, laid the forks on a table pointed at a wall and the damn caps went right though the wall.
I asked the local indy about how he got them off and he has an assistant drape a sturdy towel over the wrench/ratchet. While he unscrews the assistant pulls the towel down as hard as he can to keep the caps from flying off. You will also need the fork to be in the fully extended position when you try to put it back together so you don't have to compress that spring any more than necessary.
by the way, my 06 low rider doesnt have the drain screw (just checked) so the forks have to come out so I can tip them over and get the damn oil out....
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
Mud had a great tip - break loose them fork caps while the forks are still in the trees, or you'll need to arrange urself some sort of vise grips, becouse the caps are tightened with a healthy torque.
how much oil should be put into the forks? what grade u planing to use?
how much oil should be put into the forks? what grade u planing to use?
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 620
Likes: 1
From:
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
rejlaw, how many miles yoy have on your bike? Also when are you supposed to change it, 15k miles?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,456
Likes: 16
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
Man its as easy as can be.Of corse if you have the forks compressed you will have a biut of tension in the springs,but if you jack the bike up on a lift or something and get the front tire off the ground,its as easy as all hell.
Go get amotorcycle jack or some way to raise the front wheel off the ground.You will need enough room for the tubes to clear the bottom triple tree before hitting the floor.
Remove the wheel and brake calipers,just dont let the calipershang by the hose,use a bit of wire or a upside down buckett to set them on.Remove the fender and loosen theend caps just a touch while they are mounted in thetriple trees instead of tanking them in a workbench vise.Once you SLIGHTLYlooosen the endcaps,loosen the pinch bolts on the triple trees.
You WILL need a rubber mallet to convince the tubes to move a bit.Dont use a pipe wrench.Usually a few easy taps with the rubber mallet will work.If not,a touch of twist useing the end of the fork tube where the wheel was will work.Just put the fork end back on and use the handle of a wratchet with some soft cloth around it to keep it from damaging the axle bushing.Once you get it to move a touch itll be easy.
Be extra careful not to nick or ding the tube or the triple tree as you will have a bitch of a time getting it back together.The internet will give you the amount of oil to use if you dont have a manual or the HD dealers will tell you what to use.
Take the top caps off and drain ALL the oil out.Precisely measure the proper amount of fork oil into each leg and put them back into thetriple trees.
Go get amotorcycle jack or some way to raise the front wheel off the ground.You will need enough room for the tubes to clear the bottom triple tree before hitting the floor.
Remove the wheel and brake calipers,just dont let the calipershang by the hose,use a bit of wire or a upside down buckett to set them on.Remove the fender and loosen theend caps just a touch while they are mounted in thetriple trees instead of tanking them in a workbench vise.Once you SLIGHTLYlooosen the endcaps,loosen the pinch bolts on the triple trees.
You WILL need a rubber mallet to convince the tubes to move a bit.Dont use a pipe wrench.Usually a few easy taps with the rubber mallet will work.If not,a touch of twist useing the end of the fork tube where the wheel was will work.Just put the fork end back on and use the handle of a wratchet with some soft cloth around it to keep it from damaging the axle bushing.Once you get it to move a touch itll be easy.
Be extra careful not to nick or ding the tube or the triple tree as you will have a bitch of a time getting it back together.The internet will give you the amount of oil to use if you dont have a manual or the HD dealers will tell you what to use.
Take the top caps off and drain ALL the oil out.Precisely measure the proper amount of fork oil into each leg and put them back into thetriple trees.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Southeast New York
RE: FORK OIL CHANGE
Just changed out my lowers to chrome. Spent some time thinking about it and came up with this:
1. As mentioned before, cover the tank and such from damage.
2. Remove 1 leg at a time, drained oil. Then loosen top cap, holding tubein vise w/ rubber sheet wrapped
around itto prevent scratching / damaging.
3. I bolted a piece of " unistrut " to my bench and secured the tube to a bolted on bracket attached to the
unistrut using the fender mounting holes. Bottom of fork sitting on a piece of wood on floor.
4.Bolted an "L" bracket on unistrut above tube and screwed in a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, sitting in
hole in top of loosened cap. Rod prevented cap from moving when unscrewed, eliminating " launched "
spring and parts when unscrewed.
5. Unscrewed the tube from cap.( Tube moved into lower leg when unscrewed from cap ).
6. Released spring tension by backing off threaded rod.
7. Took rest of parts apart and cleaned, replaced w/ new seals and reassembled in reverse.
PERFECT. 1st leg took an hour. second was only 30 minutes, after figuring everything out.
A. $ 300 for new shiny parts and seals
B. $ 25 for stuff @ Home depot to built holding fixture
C. 2 1/2 hours total time spent
D. Damageless job upgrading
E. " Nice Job" compliments from other club members PRICELESS.
Good luck
1. As mentioned before, cover the tank and such from damage.
2. Remove 1 leg at a time, drained oil. Then loosen top cap, holding tubein vise w/ rubber sheet wrapped
around itto prevent scratching / damaging.
3. I bolted a piece of " unistrut " to my bench and secured the tube to a bolted on bracket attached to the
unistrut using the fender mounting holes. Bottom of fork sitting on a piece of wood on floor.
4.Bolted an "L" bracket on unistrut above tube and screwed in a piece of 1/2" threaded rod, sitting in
hole in top of loosened cap. Rod prevented cap from moving when unscrewed, eliminating " launched "
spring and parts when unscrewed.
5. Unscrewed the tube from cap.( Tube moved into lower leg when unscrewed from cap ).
6. Released spring tension by backing off threaded rod.
7. Took rest of parts apart and cleaned, replaced w/ new seals and reassembled in reverse.
PERFECT. 1st leg took an hour. second was only 30 minutes, after figuring everything out.
A. $ 300 for new shiny parts and seals
B. $ 25 for stuff @ Home depot to built holding fixture
C. 2 1/2 hours total time spent
D. Damageless job upgrading
E. " Nice Job" compliments from other club members PRICELESS.
Good luck
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