I finally grabbed a bike lift on sale at Sears on "Black Friday". I put it together and slipped it under my bike and slowly lifted it up a couple of inches off the ground just to test it out. The bike seemed stable and was very easy to lift on my own with no help. I know the bottom of the frame is not totally level and I know HD sells a kit with plastic blocks that, I assume, clip onto the bottom of the frame to use when lifting the bike. I once asked an Indy where I could get a good deal on a bike lift and he told me to make sure I got a dyna block kit if i was going to put my bike on a lift myself. However, I also have a bud that has a Sears lift and uses it under his 03 lowrider and had never even heard of the blocks until I mentioned it.

Can someone tell me the reason(s) for the blocks? Are they for safety, for protecting part of the bike other than the frame itself, or are they just for making the bottom of the bike completely level? I assume the latter would be a good idea for draining fluids and the like to make sure it all comes out.

Also, I haven't yet changed my fluids myself but would like to. I'm tired of these $100+ oil changes at the dealer. I know the oil level on the newer bikes is supposed to be checked while the bike is leaning on the kickstand. Is the oil supposed to be drained and refilled that way too or can/should it be done while straight up on a lift?

 

Lifft blocks are to give the jack a level platform to lift on. The Dyna has a part of the frame that is lower to protect the tranny.

 

I bought the blocks from HD for use on my Sears lift. This was money very well spent. It's far easier and quicker to get the bike on and off the lift, plus she's perfectly level and very stable when in the air.

 

the oil pan hangs below the frame - the blocks make sure that you are jacking it up by the frame - and not the oil pan. Some more expensive lifts can accomodate the pan - but not the sears yellow, not sure about the sears red.

I think it would be messy to try to drain the oil while on the lift - no reason this can't be done on the jiffy stand.

 

Thanks to all for the feedback - it all makes sense. However, I'm not sure the lift is actually touching the oil pan but I do see the extension that guards the tranny making the bike not quite level on the lift. I bought the red lift. The yellow looks a little nicer but the red is certainly sufficient for lifting my bike, my ATV, and my son's dirtbike.

I'm planning on picking up the blocks anyway on my next visit but I was curious just how critical they were.

I was wondering about draining the oil on the lift - seems like it could go everywhere. However, it would be much more convenient while lifted up. Can all of the fluids be changed while on the kickstand? Anyone have any tips for routing the draining fluids while on a lift?

 

Imagine pulling your 15 to 20 thousand dollar motorcycle into a parking space andnot using the jiffy stand because you think you have it perfectly balance standing upright. You leave your bike and walk towards your destination.

Imagine the look you would have on your face as your are walking away and hear a sound that leads you tobelieve the balanceperhaps wasnot perfect and your bike may have been leaning more to one side than the other.

Thats the same look you would have when you are saying to yourself, "Damn, wish I'd spent the $30.00 on the Dyna lift blocks".

 

Okay, I guess I need to repeat: I'm planning on picking up the blocks anyway on my next trip to the dealer - I was just curious as to how critical they were.

Also, the lift came with 2 tie-down straps which I plan to use whenever lifting the bike.

I paid $5 fora plastic chrome cap to cover my rear seat nut when not in use, I have no problem spending $30 for the blocks. I just wasn't sure of their entire purpose.

 

Bro you paying a hundred bucks+ for an oil change????? You are definatly using a harley stealer!

Change your oils yourself.Dont let the stealer rip u again. Do it on the jiffy stand. A lift is gonna be messy. get yourself a tourqe wrench and a filter wrench. Be very carefull screwing your drain plugs back in. Especially the tranny plug. Replace all gaskets (o rings and primary) follow sequence when tourqing the primary.As far as adding new engineoil.....dont put the full 3 quarts in. Thers gonna be old oil still in the bike.Put about 2 1/2 quarts in, then get up to temp and check. add if nessecery.

 

Wasn't implying you wouldn't spend the 30 bucks.

Just explaining, despitemy being poverish and cheap, the reason Ipurchased the blocks.

Sorry if I sounded like an ***.

 

Thanks for the info. I don't go in intending to pay over $100 for an oil change. I've had 2 scheduled services done on my bike by the stealer. Both times, they have supposedly checked "everything" out with no adjustments needed. However, I've been charged well over $100 each time and nothing really, physically got done except the fluids being changed. So, technically, I'm paying for scheduled maintenance. Realistically, all I've really gotten were oil changes.

I was at the dealer week before last while my buddy was getting his 5K service and a state inspection. The practice at our dealer is that, when a tech completes the service, he brings the "ticket" in to the parts counter and that's where you actually pay up. Well, we were talking to the parts mgr. when we noticed his bike get pulled out front indicating that the work was finished. Assuming the service was complete, the parts mgr. pulled the ticket up on his computer instead of waiting for the tech and charged my buddy $140 for the 5K service. A few minutes later, the tech comes screaming around the corner with the ticket in his hand yelling "wait, wait". He comes up and says he wasn't finished with the ticket yet as he hadn't added the charge for the inspection and "only the OIL CHANGE" was on there when the parts mgr. cleared it out as paid. So, call it a Freudian slip or whatever but that little phrase told me all I needed to know and had suspected about what is really going on when you are paying big for scheduled maintenance. Sure, they check eveything out and supposedly adjust whatever is needed. But, how often do things actually need adjustment? Apparently not as often as the service intervals as neither I nor my buddy has needed a single adjustment yet with over 10,000 miles between us. I know they are checking it over, I've seen them doing it. But, as many have suggested on this site, I should be able to get a service manual, a lift, and proper tools and do the checking and the oil changing myself. If something needs adjusting that I'm not comfortable with, then I can pay out the **** to have it done.