* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
another cheap mod beef the front end,
purchase ally tube cut to size spray black,
fit some rubber o-rings top & bottom,
very easy job
The South Will Rise Again.
mud

Removed the link scroll down to post #217 for pics and description.
Yall keep em comin
Good projects posted here. Makes mine seem trivial. Link to what I did to the rusted spokes on my 98 wideglide.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1914156/m...tm.htm#1914156
Yall keep em comin
Why don't you move that over here??
mud
ORIGINAL: d r
Mud:
I've got an 07 Street Bob. I'm doing away with the factory tailight so
I won't have the luxury of using the connector plugs that are in the factory tail light.
So I was wondering how anyone else that has done this did the wiring?
In other words what color wires went where?
I have the service manual and have that same diagram.
I guess I'm just wondering if you can run the wires directly to each other?
For instance, can I run the violet and brown wires to the directionals
with a ground and they will work properly?
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: mud
d, yeah the colors are all there for you in your service manual,
and yes you can run them directly.
The circuit board distributes the 6 in to 8 out.
If you can tuck that HD circuit board somewhere out of the way,
it will save a lot of misery cause you can use the high quality
HD AMP connectors that you have on hand.
When I built the tail/turn/license assembly for my 06 mudSickle,
I did not have room for the HD circuit board so I used a 6 hole
watertight Delphi connector.
First 2 pictures below is an example of the Delphi sealed connector - a 2 holer.
Second pic is the light that I built for the mudSickle -
fire in the hole - turning right.
mud............

.
.
.
.
.
.
diagram below......
one for ground - black
one for left turn - violet
one for right turn - brown
two for brake -
red/yellow, front brake
orange/white, rear brake
one for tail - blue
06 taillite wiring - - - -
.
.
.
.
Last edited by mud; Jan 15, 2020 at 11:17 AM.
MUD
please have another look at the elektrical diagram below.
connector 7B - the 8-way connector on thetail-lightharness side going to the back lights
notice pins/sockets #4 and #5 - two vacant spots?
well...i took a long hard looksee at that connector on my bike
(although it is an HDI-spec one, and the Domestic-spec ones might be different)
and apperently on the main-harness side of that connector (numbered 7A in the chart)
these two locationsalso have black/ground wires in them
this got me thinking...it apears as if you canditch the stock electrical tray and just connect seperate wires:
one pair to left blinker
second pair to right blinker
and a threesome to the new taillight
DR asked about wiring taillite, so, I am updating this one with more info.
ORIGINAL: d r
Mud:
I've got an 07 Street Bob. I'm doing away with the factory tailight so
I won't have the luxury of using the connector plugs that are in the factory tail light.
So I was wondering how anyone else that has done this did the wiring?
In other words what color wires went where?
I have the service manual and have that same diagram.
I guess I'm just wondering if you can run the wires directly to each other?
For instance, can I run the violet and brown wires to the directionals
with a ground and they will work properly?
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
d, yeah the colors are all there for you in your service manual,
and yes you can run them directly.
The circuit board distributes the 6 in to 8 out.
If you can tuck that HD cicuit board somewhere out of the way,
it will save a lot of misery cause you can use the high quality
HD AMP connectors that you have on hand.
When I built the tail/turn/license assembly for my 06 mudSickle,
I did not have room for the HD circuit board so I used a 6 hole
watertight Delphi connector.
First picture below is an example of the Delphi sealed connector - a 2 holer.
Second pic is underside of the mudSickle fender showing the 6 holer I used.
Third pic - fire in the hole - turning right.
mud
diagram below......
one forground
one forleft turn
one forright turn
one forbrake
two bring power in,
one of these is from accessory
06 taillite wiring -

[
Good projects posted here. Makes mine seem trivial. Link to what I did to the rusted spokes on my 98 wideglide.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1914156/m...tm.htm#1914156
Yall keep em comin
mat
Here you go I moved it over here.
Matkiwi,
Trying to make my pics larger here. So far holding up real well. I haven't had to touch them up at all.
Last July I had posted a thread asking ideas about improving the looks of my spokes cheap. Thanks for all the replies. I am eventually going to replace my spoked with some chrome custom wheels, so what I needed was just a temporary "band-aid" to improve the looks until I can buy what I want. This is what I did.
I removed the front wheel and sanded the rust as best I could with fine emory cloth, then washed them with a mixture of simple green and water to remove any impurities on the metal. I let it sit for 24 hours to completely dry. I bought some Rustoleum aluminum and applied 2 thin coats and 1 thick coat with a small 1/8" diameter craft brush, letting each coat dry for 24 hrs.I am pleased with the results I achievedwith$4.00 for a can of paint and about8 hoursofmeticulous hand work.Time will tell how long it will last, but if the rust starts coming through, I have well over half can of paint left to touch it up.
BEFORE
AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

Mud,
Here you go I moved it over here.
Matkiwi,
Trying to make my pics larger here. So far holding up real well. I haven't had to touch them up at all.
Last July I had posted a thread asking ideas about improving the looks of my spokes cheap. Thanks for all the replies. I am eventually going to replace my spoked with some chrome custom wheels, so what I needed was just a temporary "band-aid" to improve the looks until I can buy what I want. This is what I did.
I removed the front wheel and sanded the rust as best I could with fine emory cloth, then washed them with a mixture of simple green and water to remove any impurities on the metal. I let it sit for 24 hours to completely dry. I bought some Rustoleum aluminum and applied 2 thin coats and 1 thick coat with a small 1/8" diameter craft brush, letting each coat dry for 24 hrs.I am pleased with the results I achievedwith$4.00 for a can of paint and about8 hoursofmeticulous hand work.Time will tell how long it will last, but if the rust starts coming through, I have well over half can of paint left to touch it up.
AFTER

BEFORE
Very nice on the description as well.
mud
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Been at work so much lately,haven't taken time to respond to this post and I can't post pics at work. I'm still at work so I thought I'd just post a link toa couplaof my prior posts detailing a few of my mods,some of which are way under fifty bucks.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1907832/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_625460/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1115664/tm.htm
Good Luck
Tom
Moved the horn under the airdam
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/4A49CCAB68324DD9BDAEF93DC6A901D1.jpg[/IMG]
put one of those 1943 steel pennies in the choke ****. As soon as I score a 1903 indian head
penny its going to replace this one. I moved the chokeknob to the old horn mount and cut the choke mount off...
Learned a little science on that job I was cleaning pennies to find the one I wanted and I dipped the steel penny in the vinegar/salt solution after cleaning the coppers and copper adhered to the steel penny, you can see it faintly in the pic.
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/0FB8A6A2559D4BACA0D3DD1B587F2CAD.jpg[/IMG]
Put that spike on the aircleaner (I didnt cut it at all clitorplus, I decided it looked good to me)
I also added peg extensions on 3 of the pegs the header peg and the 2 rears.
The lady couldnt keep her feet planted well with the saddlebags full. And the headerside was too hot/close to my boot.
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/22E1F36275D441AA8AC17CFFCC25B7B9.jpg[/IMG]
Added that black stallion to the battery cover. It came off a Mustang I painted it black and epoxied it.Added mylower fairing/airdam.
I had the fairing for a bit and just got around to installing it. Its cut to fit tight and all that holds it on is 1 allen head and a bolt at the front, 2 mins on/off for cleaning and such.
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/04637AE9CB2F4C5B94BA2DD392E3BE8F.jpg[/IMG]
Close up of the now naked jugs...
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/2437A7B5B52C49BBADBED6C4054B70F4.jpg[/IMG]







