* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder
Hey lee - why dont you move the pix over here??
Nice job you did on it.
Doesn't seem it went over all that well
at the Chat section of this forum.
You're welcome over here.
mud
Nice job you did on it.
Doesn't seem it went over all that well
at the Chat section of this forum.
You're welcome over here.
mud
ORIGINAL: x2lee
Under 10 bucks mod, no more oil on your jeans or side of bike.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_2495121/tm.htm
Under 10 bucks mod, no more oil on your jeans or side of bike.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_2495121/tm.htm
Last edited by mud; Jan 3, 2009 at 08:14 AM.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder
Good thinkin c10.
Keep em comin.
mud
Keep em comin.
mud
ORIGINAL: 74c10sb
this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter
if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the
front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that
nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter
to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4"
holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that
you remove any metal shavings frome the filter
[IMG]local://upfiles/22674/12B88A3E3B4246568F35BA03ECC92916.jpg[/IMG]
this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter
if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the
front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that
nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter
to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4"
holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that
you remove any metal shavings frome the filter
[IMG]local://upfiles/22674/12B88A3E3B4246568F35BA03ECC92916.jpg[/IMG]
Last edited by mud; Jan 3, 2009 at 08:15 AM.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder
I have been wondering how you did that
since I first saw your pix.
Quick thinkin TARTAN.
Outta the box.
mud
since I first saw your pix.
Quick thinkin TARTAN.
Outta the box.
mud
ORIGINAL: TARTAN2
Great thread Mud as usual
Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes
Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 -$6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle !
Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!
Great thread Mud as usual
Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes
Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 -$6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle !
Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!
Last edited by mud; Jan 3, 2009 at 08:15 AM.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Thanx RIDA.
The very basics get the job done every time.
mud
The very basics get the job done every time.
mud
ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06
Front turn signal relocation..............
1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............
Drill hole in one endbig enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............
Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................
Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................
Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.
Took some pics. tonight. The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough. The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt.
I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.
Front turn signal relocation..............
1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............
Drill hole in one endbig enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............
Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................
Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................
Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.
Took some pics. tonight. The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough. The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt.
I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.
Last edited by mud; Jan 3, 2009 at 08:16 AM.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Thanx auto.
nice stuff.
Also reminds me that we have a ****** here.
mud
nice stuff.
Also reminds me that we have a ****** here.
mud
ORIGINAL: 128auto
$25 remote control garage door opener
$5 side mounted curve license plate mod
$5 labor turn signal relocation mod
All for less than $50, labor excluded
$25 remote control garage door opener
$5 side mounted curve license plate mod
$5 labor turn signal relocation mod
All for less than $50, labor excluded
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 718
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From:
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Theeboy On the rear turn signal mod you didn't use any kind of a spacer for the signals. You just used shorter bolts? And are those the OEM signals with the smoked lens? Man I am pumped about this thread there are some cool and cheap mods. This is like Christmas presents.
Smiley
Smiley
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From:
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Yup, basically, I weny under the rear fender, loosenedthe bolt that attaches the light to the fender mount and cut the stock turn signal off. removed the stock count that causes the light to sticik out about 3", removed the appropriate amount of wiring from the signal, soldered and electrial taped back together and went to ace hardware aobut 3 times to find a bolt the proper length I remember it being about 1" or even 3/4". bolted the rear signal straight to the fender. make sure to tighten them down real good and be aware they still may move if you torque them by had but other than me f---ing with it and making sure they are still tight they haven't moved on their own in over 1500 miles
I actually have the kuryakyn panacea break light and turn signal, that's way my signals are smoked
I actually have the kuryakyn panacea break light and turn signal, that's way my signals are smoked
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From:
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
I mean *removed the stock mount that causes the ....* should read my **** over before I post it
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Another air cleaner "mod"- after pricing a replacement element for my bike, i decided that it was too d@mn expensive, so i stopped by the local auto parts store (twilight zone in this case), and picked up an edelbrock pro-flo air cleaner assembly meant for a 4bbl holley. upon returning home i removed the factory air filter and cut the top off of it (the mounting flange) and discarded the rest. I had to open the neck on the new filter up from 5 1/8" to 6 1/4" to get it to fit over the backing plate for the carb (not that hard, just used pliers, hammer, dolley and patience). ran the stock air filter cover screw through the top plate backwards (threads pointing out) and put a nut, as well as some loctite, on the backside to prevent it coming out. re-mounted the top plate and then secured the base for the new air filter to it. then i snapped on the top part of the pro-flo. The proflo is designed to be run dry or with a slight bit of oil in the foam element... don't worry about oiling it, the bike will do it for you. It flows 1000cfm and only needs to washed with soap and water every 2000miles. total cost 29.75 (24.95 for the pro-flo, 1.97 for loc-tite, and 1.35 for the nut... plus tax.) btw- i sealed the air filter base to the backing plate with some black rtv (not included in price total)
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/AB5D65EF944A4F8D831149D46502980A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/DAB7B5F26FE44696A7DB805311517F65.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/2EF8A4BE4AB64F18BA86B6D310C0D60B.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/AB5D65EF944A4F8D831149D46502980A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/DAB7B5F26FE44696A7DB805311517F65.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/33203/2EF8A4BE4AB64F18BA86B6D310C0D60B.jpg[/IMG]
