When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Im taking in my lower sliders today and need to know wut i have to cover so powder dont cover it .I know the inside cant get coverd but wut about the hole and clamp side where the axel goes? quick response would be a help cuz i wanna get them in pronto thanx
You will have to mask off the top where the tubes go in, axle hole, axle clamp area, and drain plugs. Pcoat is a b*tch to get off if it gets in the wrong place. A shop that does a lot of bike stuff will understand. It takes a high temp tape for this, so don't expect duct tape or other to work. Silicon plugs work for the smaller holes. Your Pcoater should have all this. Good Luck
Well I have not done it personally but, they should mask off all internals, axle holes, taped holes, and so on. The coating should end up to be about .003 thick.
i would not worry about the axel area... even if it is too thick if the powdercoater preps it the right way you can just sand it down. be sure that you do the small bracket on the lower leg
i would not worry about the axel area... even if it is too thick if the powdercoater preps it the right way you can just sand it down. be sure that you do the small bracket on the lower leg
Thanks for the info guys,Joe, DeJavu, and Loner. I'm getting ready to have mine done as well. You mean the one(bracket) for the caliper, correct?
Will a good soak in some de-greaser clean all the old oil from the sliders? Just curious because the aluminum is usuallyso damn porous. Will glass bead work good to take off the clear coat and prep the aluminum for powder?
TIA
cool thanx just didnt want to drop off and and have powder in somewhere that its not supposed to be.Do i need to replace anything else when i re asemble i have new fork seals,drain bolts and crush washers and slider bolts and washers?Do i need to replace the bushings on the tube?
Im not for sure if you need to romove the clearcoat? It should have been some kind of poder coating as well so they should be able to go over the top of it? I am not for sure, good question.
This would be a good one for the âFinal Touchâ guy to chime in on, as for the powder coating I would be ware of the abrasive used so the surface texture would not affect the finish.
it all has to be media blasted... if it is not propperly done it will chip off... if your powdercoater is making you prep it i would find a new powdercoater... i would never have a customer prep work just cause then would not put my name on it to be sure that it willnot flakeoff... i am talking about the bracket at the end of the fork that holds the axel in place
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.