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You have two adjustments on the forks for damping, one for rebound and one for compression. They are at the top of the forks and the bottom on each fork leg. If you have turned them to full hard (or soft) that is likely your problem or at least contributing to it. You also have preload adjusting nuts at the top of the forks. They are cartridge type forks and you cannot change the oil without completely disassembling them. My FXDX is an 03 and the adjustments may be different. You need to get a copy of the owners manual for your bike. Mine is not accessable to me for a few days or I would give you the settings from that.
Chuck
I've got an '01 FXDXT with a 103 engine. Same basic bike as yours. Felt like it was "loose" in the middle of the bike when it was pressed around curves, especially if there was a less than smooth road. Assuming all your suspension settings are understood and set up correctly, I would have gone with 418's on back. Rebound dampening can really affect the handling; again, when pushing harder than usual. I've lowered my tubes nearly an inch into the trees in front and put on 12.5" 418's. I've got Sputhe engine mounts; they keep the engine/tranny/swingarm/rear wheel assembly straight up and down in the frame, allowing only fore and aft motion to quell the vibration. I removed a lot of unsprung weight with a Sputhe aluminum swingarm (more rigid), an aluminum wheel (4.25X18 with 160/60zr18 Bridgestone radial) and a Lyndall composite rotor. This bike handles as good as a Dyna possibly can.....crushes metric cruisers and is in league with many sport tourers.
All that said; I would get a copy of the factory service manual or owners manual or have a sport bike riding friend explain all the suspension functions and maybe even help set it up. World of difference. These bikes (the FXDX/T's) have terrific handling potential but it is a bit out of the HD normal thought process to understand the suspension.
UNSTABLE? Sounds like the rear tire is squaring up, which is normal.
FORK BRACE. With one, I definitely feel that the steering is quicker, especially adjustments⌠instant feedback. Trade off: more unsprung weight. Install it properly, i.e. no unequal forces: not on jiffy stand. Wrenches may argue to go with wheel up versus with rider weight on; in either case, with wheel and fender (if any) installed, no brake applied, mount the brace loosely and then tighten gradually in a criss-cross pattern with frequent inspection that all is aligned. Check for binding.
PLUS. I got substantial improvement by changing the fork springs. However, I wouldnât think that an FXDX(T) would benefit from new springs as much as an FXD does.
My Beemer would do that just at new front tire time, really badly once or twice, double/triple check the front tire for choppyness or cupping, whatever you want to call it.
Fork brace: not a bad idea, I don't know if you'd really notice much of a change though. If the factory/engineers really thought it was required it'd be stock.
Gilly
all suggestions are good, thanks y'all . keep'em coming.[sm=drooldude.gif]
may be i'm gonna get the fork oil changed and, according to this guy at the workshop, i should get the heavy duty SE oil to replace the stock fork oil. Any one has done this before? which is better, stock oil or heavy duty SE?[sm=smiley25.gif]
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