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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I had an intermittent fault on the bike for some weeks now. After standing overnight the bike would start OK in the morning but the running lights, speedo and flashers would not work. I spent hours tracing the fault as it only occurred at odd times. I cleaned all the fuse holders and earth connections and it seemed to clear up. But now it happened again this morning. I tried knocking the ignition switch as I was driving and everything lit up again. I tried knocking the switch again and the bike stopped dead. So it seems the switch is the culprit. I now think the switch gets moisture in it after washing or refuelling.
Is the switch serviceable? Is it a common problem on Dynas? Maybe I should just keep punching it.
I have recently purchased an aftermarketswitch for a mod on my06 FXDI. This switch would be a replacemnt for the switch on your model. In the process of working on this mod, I have had the switch apart several times.
There is an external snap ring on the bottom of the switch. Once it is removed the switch parts will separate.The parts you will basically find are the body, the top section (the part that rotates), three small floating contacts and springs, and a larger spring in the center. The inside of the switch is filled with dielectric grease.
The part number for the replacement switch from Harley is 71430-06. I would imagine it is fairly expensive because it also come with the fork lock set since they use the same keys.
If it were me and I thought I had an issue with the switch, I would pull it down, clean it with electrical cleaner, and fill it up with the dielectric grease. Be careful when you separate the parts. The floating contacts and springswill easily fall out and are a joy to try and find.
If you decide you want a new switch, the one I purchased was $24.00 shipped from Eastern Performance.
From Harley it will cost you more than $100, but you can order it keyed like your fork lock using your VIN number.
My suggestion is to buy a good aftermarket one like jmpancoast has done.
I stripped down the switch and cleaned it up. The contacts were completely black and the connnectors a nice shade of bright green. Anyway it seems OK now but I was surprised that the switch is not waterproof nor spark proof, in fact its nothing proof, so I think I'll look for a good sealed replacement switch, if they're available. Otherwise it going to be a regular maintenance item. Also not very safe with spilled fuel about.
I don't think you will find a sealed replacement. Packing it full of dielectric grease is your best bet for weather proofing it and avoiding a repeat of what you just repaired.
At leastyou fixed it and you didn't have to buy a new one.
I pulled mine apart and cleaned it up, new grease, etc. and it still didn't want to work right.
Thanks for the help. I think it would be a simple matter to improve the switch design by raising the outside edge so that a rubber boot could be fitted, like the reset switch. Or replacing the old mechanical design altogether with an electronic switch and a couple of relays on the fuse board.
Also that fuse board is a mess. It should be made waterproof with a simple plastic cover and gasket, as fitted on many cars.
One good thing about owning a Harley is that you've always got something to think about! Never a dull moment.
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