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Titrump - you can just scuff the clear and paint flames over it. Be careful NOT to burn through the clear coat to the base. Not sure how much MoCo clear they put on - but I doubt it's a lot. If you burn through you'll have to re-shoot the base, or it will look blotchy.
I'd usegrey or redScotch Brite - Standard Green is too abrasive. I use600wet / dry paper.Reason being it's your last chance to get the paint smooth and you may misssome areas / bumps the SB. Some go as rough as 320 or 400 grit wet / dry but I don't think you need that much tooth.
Lotsscuff and re-shoot the base anyway since it is old, hardand cured out. Also I usean interclearHOK SG-100 between base and flames (or thinned clear). Get and use the P Sheets for the paint / clear.
One thingfor sure - 5 different painters will give you 5 different ways to do it. And your jobber will give another way (usually based on what they sell or have in stock). Lots of good tips here - good guys too http://www.autobody101.com/
Good luck and take lots of pics - dd
just did the same thing, trust me there is no too much clear from the factory, so go real slow, start with something like 1500 wet/dry lots of water and a dash of liquid dish soap,you have to do the entire piece you working on, once the surface is preped, lay down the paint, clear over , multi coats. cut and polish, let tins sit a week or so [off gas] paint hardens. ready to roll!
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