Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch
My ignition switch seems to not be working. The accessory mode comes on but the ignition lights do not. I'm thinking that it might be corrosion built up in the switch. Anyone have this problem?
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
Ignition switch problem... ?
2000 FatBoy carbd 22.5k miles.
I have the same exact issue came up last night. I rode the bike a couple times yesterday, attempted to start the bike less than a half hour after riding it. The starter may have twitched, and then no power at all on RUN mode. Accessory switched on seems to be fine.
I have no issues with fuses, battery, or terminals. I have yet to check the circuit breaker in the rear to see if that could be an issue.
I pulled the switch and have checked w/ OHMs, which seems to be ok, but I will check with actual current later tonight. It's hard to believe it could be the switch itself.
Have you had any luck fixing your problem?
Steve
I have the same exact issue came up last night. I rode the bike a couple times yesterday, attempted to start the bike less than a half hour after riding it. The starter may have twitched, and then no power at all on RUN mode. Accessory switched on seems to be fine.
I have no issues with fuses, battery, or terminals. I have yet to check the circuit breaker in the rear to see if that could be an issue.
I pulled the switch and have checked w/ OHMs, which seems to be ok, but I will check with actual current later tonight. It's hard to believe it could be the switch itself.
Have you had any luck fixing your problem?
Steve
Dealer had the bike for over a week. It WAS the switch. It took so long because they had to have keys made.
Also, when I bought the bike (used) it had 2 different keys: one to the ignition, the other to the fork lock. The fact that there were 2 different keys suggests that the switch was replaced prior to my purchasing the bike. So the switch has gone bad twice!
Also, when I bought the bike (used) it had 2 different keys: one to the ignition, the other to the fork lock. The fact that there were 2 different keys suggests that the switch was replaced prior to my purchasing the bike. So the switch has gone bad twice!
I re-read your post. It seems like we have the same symptoms. My switch did this off-and-on for a while. I would try it again and again. After a few times turning it off and then on again, it would begin working. Fortunately it never went out while riding. Eventually it stopped working at all in the "on" mode. The "accessory" mode always worked. I had the extended warranty so all it cost to repair was the co-pay. The switch costs about $125.00. This seemed obsurdly expensive to me.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ny
I re-read your post. It seems like we have the same symptoms. My switch did this off-and-on for a while. I would try it again and again. After a few times turning it off and then on again, it would begin working. Fortunately it never went out while riding. Eventually it stopped working at all in the "on" mode. The "accessory" mode always worked. I had the extended warranty so all it cost to repair was the co-pay. The switch costs about $125.00. This seemed obsurdly expensive to me.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
I have a problem with speedo and tach work in accessory and mileage don't light up when the key is on all the way thinking switch, runs fine except signals don't cancel
Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ny
I re-read your post. It seems like we have the same symptoms. My switch did this off-and-on for a while. I would try it again and again. After a few times turning it off and then on again, it would begin working. Fortunately it never went out while riding. Eventually it stopped working at all in the "on" mode. The "accessory" mode always worked. I had the extended warranty so all it cost to repair was the co-pay. The switch costs about $125.00. This seemed obsurdly expensive to me.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
Not exactly sure how the breaker works, but if you have voltage in the "accessory" mode wouldn't you also have it when the switch is in the "on" position? I'm pretty sure that the switch has only one power supply, so if it works in one position, it should also work in the other. I might well be mistaken, but I thought that when the breaker goes the bike is completely without power. Anyway, you can check it with a voltmeter when you re-install it.
Swapped switch same thing maybe breaker is bad. It's something to do with that red/ grey I think . That doesn't work I think I'm gonna find another source of power
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Why don`t you start a new thread, describe exactly what the issue is, and ........
MODEL AND YEAR.
MODEL AND YEAR.
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Stage IV
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Ny
and tach
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