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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
My 1998 Lowrider is my first Harley so I'm trying to learn as fast as I can. Here's my dumb question: Is mine a Dyna or an Evo and what is the difference? How do I tell if it has a CVO carb on it? I don't really want to take it apart to tell what everything is until something breaks on it because I ride it to work everyday (44 miles round trip) with diesel being $3.30 & up down here in D/FW, Texas, I can't afford to drive my truck. It has 24000 miles on it with Screaming Eagle drag pipes and a K & N air filter. I don't know if the carb has been rejetted or not or if anything else has been done to it. I do know it is really cold natured and takes forever to warm up and idle right without coughing and spitting. It also pops a lot on deacceleration. I'm trying to learn what is normal and whats not. This site has been a big help so my thanks to all for their posts.
It's a dyna with the evolution (evo) engine. 1998 was the last year for the evo in a dyna or touring bike. 1999 was the last year for an evo in the softail line. I don't know what a CVO carb is but you can tell a CV carb by the black cap on top of it. Look behind the air filter box with a flash light. Your carb may be lean based on your comments. Read the plugs and see how they look.
Thanks , I didn't notice that I had typed CVO instead of CV. I'll look for the black cap and check the plugs out. I have been told that it probably needs rejetting because of the pipes but I don't know whats in it. After some of the posts that I have been reading here, I was thinking about trying to adjust it and see if that helps. The bike runs real good after it gets good and warmed up which makes me think just a little tweaking.
I have pointed people with stock cv carbs to the nightrider link for years. doing these mods to a stock carb is fun and the most bang for the buck. Very simple instructions on the nightrider site. If you are going to shim the needle, or replace it with the '88 sportser needle, be very careful reinstaling the diaphram cover. I've seen many people rip the diaphram. Changing the lowspeed jet and drilling out the welsch plug and adjusting the air fuel mixture, is a great improvement over stock, even if you don't change the needle. Have fun.
tim
Thanks guy's for your input. You said everything I had already been reading. Only thing about rejetting it is that I'm not sure if it has already been done before or not. Dealership I bought it from really didn't know much history on the thing. I did makesome small baffles that I put in the pipes and it did help down low, wasn't quite as loud, I thought it sounded a little funny like something was rattling, and I didn't think it ran quite as good as before. I took them back off. I also read about it not oiling the top end as good as it needed at 800 rpm so I turned it up to a 1000 rpm. The baffles definately helped the popping on deaccel and driving low speeds. I was able to turn corners in second and not have to go down to first. Weekends are the only time I have to do anything because I ride it everyday to work so next weekend I think I'll try making another type baffle and see if I can get something I like. Thanks again for your input, it was all good stuff. I hope you guys up north can hold on till warmer weather gets here because down here in Texas we love ridin year round!
There was a thread a couple of weeks ago about a guy that put a flat fender washer welded to some bolt stock, in his pipes to adjust the back pressure which relieved decel pop and I do beleive forum member "clutch66" made a comment about that was how they tuned them back in the day......................or it could just be those voices again
you can look at the bottom of the carb and tell if it has been changed out most of the time.
look on the bottom of the carb and you'll see an area looks like a straw on the bottom of it the factory puts in a metal slug if it is still there then it's stock from the factory. to change you can drill it out but when i changed me needles out there is a small hole on the side that you can stick a small allen wrench into and apply a little pressure and the slug will pop right out.
looking from front of bike red circle is area, green arrow is hole where i used allen wrench to pop out slug where red arrow is pointing hope this helps.
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