What all is involved in changing the springs on an 06 or later Dyna? I'm assuming that once you remove the caps you can just pull the springs out, it this right or are they attached somewhere?I do realize that I'll have to remove the fork legs from the triples to dump out the old oil, since there are no drain plugs on newer Dynas but is there any reason to remove the sliders from the tubes?I'd also be interested in hearing from anyone who's just changed to heavier oil verses Progressive springs verses straight rate with or without cartridge emulators.In other words I'm looking to gain as much info on upgrading the front end as I can before I start spending money.

 

Looks pretty straightforward in the manual for standard length springs. Like you said, take the caps off and pull the springs out. I think you have to take the forks apart and replace some short damper rod springs for the lowered spring kit from Progressive. Iordered some standard length Progressive springs for my '07 2 weeks ago and still don't have them, hope they're in when I get off the road end of next week.
Progressive has some instruction sheets on their web site.

 

Thanks for that piece of info I wasn't looking forward to trying to figure out how to seperate the sliders from the tubes.

 

i always thought takin the sliders apart was easy.
gettin the spring caps back on, now thats a diff story.
i think the whole neighborhood knew when i was fightin those things

 

Ed, did it yesterday. If you dont want to lower the front end and are only looking to change springs then you need to remove top caps, pull out metal sleeve, remove the spring and dump the oil. No need to remove slider from tube. Refill with new oil, replace with progrssive springs and new pvc spacers then replace top caps and tighten. Thats it. I rebuilt the front end after powdercoating and did it with progressive springs (so MUCH better, thicker and longer than OEM) with Extra heavy oil...but I weigh 290. Hope this helps. PS even if you wanted to lower the front end no need to remove sliders.....just break the allen bolt loose on the bottom of the leg and let dampening rod fall free, then change the 1" spring to a 2" spring replace bolt using new washer seal and do as above.

 

yea, pretty straight forward. take the caps off (be careful they are under pressure) and pull the spring out. you can drain the fork oil (the screws are in the bottom of the fork sliders hidden behind the axle) but i took my forks out of the trees to change the oil cause it was easier in the long run. putting the caps back on can be problematic because of the pressure. i moved my handlebars for better accessibility and it went pretty goos after that. be sure to cover the tank with a towel so you don't ding it during the project.

good luck!

 

BTW with the new progressive springs I had little if any problems replacing the caps.

 

Thanks for the info I'll probably start this project in a couple or three weeks any tips on where to order the springs? and what fork oil to use I'm around 225 fully geared up?

 

Just lowered my WG with progressive kit, and chrome lower sliders, took the whole works apart, not bad just a word of caution as said above the caps are under pressure and be careful when you take them off. Not that you can't control them when they come off just DON"T DROP THE CAPS they are fine threaded little bastards and when they hit the concreteit tends to f-up the threads causing you to have to search a four state are for replacements that can be overnighted. Don't ask me how I know I just do. Good luck

 

Still working on mine. I just dropped off the lowers at the powder coaters today. If you take it all apart you'll at least need a 12 mm allen wrench and an 1 3/8 socket. The service manual states to break loose the damper tube fastener while the fork nuts and oil is still in the forks. One side broke loose. I fought with the other side for 45 minutes and never did get it to break loose. The one that did break loose still wouldn't back out the rest of the way after I took out the spring so I had to put the spring back in a push on it to keep it from spinning. The one that never did break loose required the use of a special "tool" I had hanging up in the garage. After taking out all the parts and draining the oil I stuck the end of my wooden push broom handle all the way to the damper tube and pushed on it while breaking the fastener loose. The 1" handle was already rounded over and was a perfect fit to hold the damper tube without causing any damage. If I do this again I'll definitely use the broom!