Anybody know how to get to the star nut to adjust the steering head bearings without taking the upper triple tree off on an '07 Dyna? Have the manual and it says nothing about it but can't see any way to get to it besides removal. Took clutch cable loose to relieve tension and fallaway checks about 1 in. manual says 2.0 -4.0.

 

Remove steering&nbsp\\;\\\\\\;stem nut cover, then remove steering stem nut.&nbsp\\;\\\\\\; Loosen both top triple tree pinch bolts.&nbsp\\;\\\\\\; This will allow you to raise the upper triple tree slightly and give you access to the adjustment nut.&nbsp\\; No need to remove the upper tree. &nbsp\\;Tap&nbsp\\;the adjustment nut&nbsp\\;\\\\\\;with a center punch.&nbsp\\;\\\\\\; Reinstall steering stem nut and re-torque.&nbsp\\;\\\\\\; Tighten and torque pinch bolts.

 

Thanks John, manual says nothing about why you loosen the pinch bolts or lifting the trees up to gain access to the nut. You a lifesaver.

 

Sorry it was so hard to read.&nbsp\\; Needed to have a few more .////.........////./....////.//////./&nbsp\\;in there

 

I have seen the term fallaway mentioned in a lot of posts and I was wondering what it is.&nbsp\\; Can it be explained in a way that you don't need to be a mechanic to understand?&nbsp\\; Maybe you can also answer a question I have on my 2007 FXDC.&nbsp\\; The top of my fork tubes stick out above the top of the triple tree at different heights.&nbsp\\; It is noticable to the naked eye but is actually about .05".&nbsp\\; I have been having issues with the front end and I was wondering if this could another item that should be addressed.&nbsp\\; The fork tubes being at different heights, what affect would this have on the bike, if any?&nbsp\\; If I decide to hang onto the bike, I will be picking up a manual so that I can understand this more.&nbsp\\; Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

Fallaway is just a term used to test and adjust how tight you have your steering head bearings. Not much different than a car with the castle nut to tighten them with on your front wheels. The tighter the bearing nut (pulling the bearings together against the bearing races) is the farther you have to turn the front wheel before it starts to fall under its own weight. The looser it is the quicker it falls. I read somewhere else that they wished HD would just have a torque spec for it instead of this way. It's kinda a PITA because you have to loosen the stem nut, adjust, retorque stem nut, check fallaway, and repeat if necessary. As far as the forks sticking out, just checked mine and they are within .010" of each other. Sounds like an adjustment is needed. Is your front tire wearing in the middle or just off center?

 

I just checked and did not notice anything going on with the front tire.&nbsp\\; I have less than 3k miles on it, but has been to the dealer 3 times for wobble and clunk/handling issues.&nbsp\\; I am trying to get it figured out so&nbsp\\;I can justify keeping it.&nbsp\\; The last time they replaced the washer, balanced the tire (it&nbsp\\;was out), said they adjusted fallaway, but evidently didn't notice the fork tubes.&nbsp\\; Still have the clunk, especially if the bike sits and I get it on it later and take off.&nbsp\\; Sounds like if they did the procedure like they should have, they needed to loosen the triple trees&nbsp\\;and should&nbsp\\;have noticed the different heights (or just put it together without paying attention).&nbsp\\;&nbsp\\;Even after all of this they said&nbsp\\;the vibration&nbsp\\;is&nbsp\\;"normal&nbsp\\;harmonic s".&nbsp\\;&nbsp\\;There is still a rumble/vibration if leaned in a long sweeper or if I run over any grooves&nbsp\\;on the road.&nbsp\\; They did cure the wobble so I can now take a hand off a grip to get rid of&nbsp\\;some numbness without getting a tank slapper going.&nbsp\\; Thanks for the help.&nbsp\\;

 

The back side of the frame neck is notched to give you access to the adjuster nut.&nbsp\\;You don't have to raise the upper tree, but do make sure you&nbsp\\;loosen the top pinch bolts.