Front brake ?
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 449
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From: Crown Point Indiana
Front brake ?
I need some help every so often when I put my front brake on nothing happens but I let up and put it on agian and it works \\; \\; Just dont work sometimes \\; the brake fluid is full no leaks \\; I'm stumped dont know what to do \\; \\; \\; Back brake works fine \\; \\; \\; \\; Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 461
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From: Glendale, AZ
RE: Front brake ?
+1 on the air in the line. \\; Did they do any work on your brakes after the hit? \\; Also look for a pinch or compressed spot in your brake line, something might have done that when it got hit.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Crown Point Indiana
RE: Front brake ?
The brake \\;lever was broke off they put on a new one but did nothing to the brakes just changed the lever. \\; \\; Bike was laying on its site for awhile I dont know if that would cause air to get in the line or not \\; \\; I think Ill take it back and see what they say. \\;
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 449
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From: Crown Point Indiana
RE: Front brake ?
JRK thanks my son in law is coming over after he gets off work he said he has some kind of vac that he uses to bleed his hopefully Ill get it fixed today \\; \\; thanks all \\; \\; This is a great forum \\; \\; \\; I check it out alot \\; nice people
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa, Ontario
RE: Front brake ?
You have air in \\;the system. If your bike was on her side for a bit, air leaked into the line. There is a small amount of air at the top in the reservoir, but hydraulic pressure keeps it from getting into the system. Your bike is designed to stay upright at all times, try to keep it that way ( lol )
Fortunately, it is really easy to bleed your lines.
You’ll need a 3/8 open end wrench, that’s’ the size of the bleeder valve.
10” of clear tubing
A bottle of DOT 5 brake fuid.
Some rags. \\;
 \\;
Now go get a 16 oz. empty clean can readily available for free, in your kitchen garbage can, and add about 2 oz of clean fluid to it. Stick one end of the tubing to the bleeder valve, after removing the dust cap. Easy here, they rip off really easy. Now stick the other end in the can with the fluid, and secure it or clip it to the can so the end won’t come out. If it does, air may leak in again and you’ll have more work. \\;Now remove the lid and rubber membrane from the reservoir on the handlebar.
Don’t let any debris, water or anything get in there. If you are working outside, wait till there’s no wind, or do it in the garage. As a rule of thumb, don’t allow the level in the reservoir get below half full. Top it as needed. Keep your brake fluid bottle caped tight at all times, if you kick it by accident, you’ll have to stop to go get more, you’ll be out $15.00 bucks, and you’ll have to clean a mess.
That’s your set up. Now for the steps
Pump the brake lever slow ,like when you are braking on wet pavement, a few times, keep the lever depressed.
Open the bleeder valve ½ turn, until you feel the lever giving way, now close the bleeder valve.
Let go of the brake lever.
Repeat these procedures until you see no bubbles coming thru the clear tubing, and then you are done
You’ll feel increased resistance on the lever with every time, if it feels mushy still, you are not done.
If you find it is taking longer than it should, stop. Go get a beer, make yourself a sandwich, then clean the pool, do the lawn etc. Sometimes you have to let the fluid settle a bit before you can continue. I also tap the lines and reservoir a few times with the plastic end of a screwdriver to force some of the recalcitrant bubbles out. Don’t mix DOT 5 with DOT 4 etc.
Once you get a hold of it you’ll see how remarkably easy it is to do, and you’ll feel great.
 \\;\\\\\\;
Cheers,
 \\;\\\\\\;
 \\;\\\\\\;
[IMG]local://upfiles/62526/8E27768BC2324DC5BD5CBCC7015DD442.jpg[/IMG]
Fortunately, it is really easy to bleed your lines.
You’ll need a 3/8 open end wrench, that’s’ the size of the bleeder valve.
10” of clear tubing
A bottle of DOT 5 brake fuid.
Some rags. \\;
 \\;
Now go get a 16 oz. empty clean can readily available for free, in your kitchen garbage can, and add about 2 oz of clean fluid to it. Stick one end of the tubing to the bleeder valve, after removing the dust cap. Easy here, they rip off really easy. Now stick the other end in the can with the fluid, and secure it or clip it to the can so the end won’t come out. If it does, air may leak in again and you’ll have more work. \\;Now remove the lid and rubber membrane from the reservoir on the handlebar.
Don’t let any debris, water or anything get in there. If you are working outside, wait till there’s no wind, or do it in the garage. As a rule of thumb, don’t allow the level in the reservoir get below half full. Top it as needed. Keep your brake fluid bottle caped tight at all times, if you kick it by accident, you’ll have to stop to go get more, you’ll be out $15.00 bucks, and you’ll have to clean a mess.
That’s your set up. Now for the steps
Pump the brake lever slow ,like when you are braking on wet pavement, a few times, keep the lever depressed.
Open the bleeder valve ½ turn, until you feel the lever giving way, now close the bleeder valve.
Let go of the brake lever.
Repeat these procedures until you see no bubbles coming thru the clear tubing, and then you are done
You’ll feel increased resistance on the lever with every time, if it feels mushy still, you are not done.
If you find it is taking longer than it should, stop. Go get a beer, make yourself a sandwich, then clean the pool, do the lawn etc. Sometimes you have to let the fluid settle a bit before you can continue. I also tap the lines and reservoir a few times with the plastic end of a screwdriver to force some of the recalcitrant bubbles out. Don’t mix DOT 5 with DOT 4 etc.
Once you get a hold of it you’ll see how remarkably easy it is to do, and you’ll feel great.
 \\;\\\\\\;
Cheers,
 \\;\\\\\\;
 \\;\\\\\\;
[IMG]local://upfiles/62526/8E27768BC2324DC5BD5CBCC7015DD442.jpg[/IMG]