and prob cost less than 160!!!!

 

Why pay someone for a job that can easily be done yourself?

 

I can see some of you don't like my suggestion of buying the new control set with the 60" harness. True it's a bit pricey, but then you will still only have one point of failure (at the connector) instead of adding two more possible points of failure (2 solder joints for each extension). True if you take your time, and do it right with good solder coverage and shrink wrap, it should not fail for a very long time but some people don't have the patience to sit there and make 30 solder joints. 8 wires on one connector X 2 solder joints per wire = 16 joints... 6 wires X 2 solder joints per wire = 12 solder joints.... 16+12=28 solder joints. +/- 5 min per wire = 140 min = 2hrs and 20 min. To some, 2 hrs is a lot of time to spend on something.

Some of us don't have an enclosed work space and are forced to work out in the yard. So minimizing the steps involved is helpful to get the job done quickly. It was only a suggestion.


Also, the next snag you may hit is when you swap the clutch cable. Definitely buy a new clutch cover gasket and 1qt of tranny fluid before hand and a heavy duty pair of snap ring pliers. Channel lock makes a nice one and you can get'em at Lowes or Home Depot. You'll see why when you open the clutch cover.


If you got stainless cables, I used one of the throttle cables to fish the harnesses back through the bars. Stick the cable up through the bars from the riser area to each grip. Extend the actual wire out of the shield then attach the harness to the ball end with some electrical tape wrapped tightly. Keeps the thickness down to a minimum so you can easily pull the wires back through the bars with minimal effort.

 

I agree it would be great to buy a set of longer wires. I don't know about you, but I've got way more time than money.

 

the work involved in internally wiring and soldering is tedious and time consuming.
Drop off bars, go to work, pick up on way home. what could be easier.
If i can pay someone to do what I need done for less than the cost of those parts I sure will.

 

Ok so I had some time to work on them on Saturday.

I think there will be enough wire without any extentions. I got the left side done and internally wired. I still have the right side to do.. Hopefully that will be easier because there's not as many wires. The left side was a major pain in the ***!

Now the next problem. The left side plug on the frame has snuck itself back in to the hole it came out of. Any easy ideas on how to get it out. It seems like there's an access panel under the neck made out of plastic? I'd hate to take the tank all the way off.

 

also here's another question.... I don't want to run turn signals in the front. If I clip the wires going to the lights on the front will it make the back ones not work? Like if you have a bulb out on a car? Blink real fast or not blink at all? Thanks for your help guys

 

Don't snip. Just unplug. No, that will not affect the rear turn signals. When I did my bars, I had a very loose connection on the front signals and the backs were not affected at all.

 

was the signal plug ... thought so.
my 16s are coming. if I won't need to extend the wires I'll do everything myself, but, I have no interest in soldering so off to a local indy to get em extended and internally wired if extentions are the case...

 

Yes Rounder, it was the individual three wire signal plug. I crimped each female terminal so it fit snugly on the male terminal and the "bug" went away. The funny thing is that during my swap, I did not touch those wires at all since I had previously relocated them months ago. Sort of glad it happened then and not while on a dark country road somewhere, as that is all that is around me. Dueling banjos, anyone? lol