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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Hey everybody. Got some 16" road 6 ape's off of ebay. Took off my old bars last night and proceeded to put the new ones on. My question is... How do I get the plugs for the wires out of the frame? Does the tank need to come off? Do you think i'll have enough wire there to run the wires internally? Or will I have to get an extention kit? The bars aren't that much taller than the factories.
I've done a search and found the how to but it doesn't say much on how to get the connectors out of the frame. That is the biggest obstical. Any help would be apprieciated! Thanks
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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Access the connectors via the rubber grommets on the sides of the frame. Disassemble the connectors. Pull wires out... Make a diagram before you disassemble. It's not hard, just a little time consuming. Have fun
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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It does make it easier if you remove the tank bolts and slide the tank to the rear as afar as you can without disconnecting anything. Otherwise, you can take the tank off if you want. As far as having enough wire to run internally, it is a shooting match... I had enough for 16" bars on my 2k WG but barely enough (actually 14" bars with 4" risers).
Let us know if you need help.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 12:53 PM
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Also, I just did mini-apes to 16's. There is just enough harness to do it without adding any extensions, although I did give this a hard look/see. It's a new set of black controls with a 60" harness. I can estimate the stock harness is around 48" or so.

Handlebar controls with 60in. harness

It would definitely allow for flexibility down the road.


I did not loosen my tank. It didn't seem any better to do so since I was accessing what I needed through the frame grommets right in front of the tank.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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Thanks! Will I be able to get the connectors out through the front of the frame? I already took the grommets out. Or will I have to find them under the seat? Is that where they are?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 03:45 PM
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The connectors are in the front of the frame (in the backbone). If the stock wires aren't long enough I suggest pulling them out and unplugging them, cutting them and soldering in some extentions. This is the way I always do a bar job.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by whited44
Thanks! Will I be able to get the connectors out through the front of the frame? I already took the grommets out. Or will I have to find them under the seat? Is that where they are?
there's a couple of connectors just inside the neck. If it was up to me, I'd follow SClonghair's recommendation and spend the $160 on the switch assy. That way, you get everything together first before the bars go on. Makes life a whole lot simpler. If youre not comfortable with a soldering pencil and a truckload of heat shrink tubing (all in tight places), the switches will save you a lot of grief
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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Well last night i got the connectors out of the frame. Today i'm going to take the connectors apart and see if there's enough wire to make it work. If not i'll get the new controls. Might as well spent 160, if the 4" wiring extention is 50 bucks. I'll let you guys know the next snag I run into
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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why not just solder in some ext...easy to do and works great!
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by whited44
Well last night i got the connectors out of the frame. Today i'm going to take the connectors apart and see if there's enough wire to make it work. If not i'll get the new controls. Might as well spent 160, if the 4" wiring extention is 50 bucks. I'll let you guys know the next snag I run into
if your gonna spend $160 on new controls why don't you just bring the bars and controls to a wrench and pay him to extend and internally wire the bars.
sure would save alot of hassle and free up some of your time.
 
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