06 FXDB forward controls
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From:
WHOA! Thanks guys! This is simplify the installation a ton! Looks like 1/2 hour maybe 1 hr worth of work now 
This leaves the new seals for the primary case that came in the kit unused. I have a SE 6 speed tranny to install into my 01 FXDWG... anyone know if the seals for the primary will fit that one?
This leaves the new seals for the primary case that came in the kit unused. I have a SE 6 speed tranny to install into my 01 FXDWG... anyone know if the seals for the primary will fit that one?
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I think I'll try Hogrida's suggestion on the clutch adjustment to see if that helps. I can't tap (up or down) lightly enough to get that thing in neutral. Frustrating as hell.
Thanks!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I thought I heard somewhere that, "you'll never get it right until you change out the inner linkage..." which involves removing the primary cases. Just figured I'd have to do it at some point.
I think I'll try Hogrida's suggestion on the clutch adjustment to see if that helps. I can't tap (up or down) lightly enough to get that thing in neutral. Frustrating as hell.
Thanks!
I think I'll try Hogrida's suggestion on the clutch adjustment to see if that helps. I can't tap (up or down) lightly enough to get that thing in neutral. Frustrating as hell.
Thanks!
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rod.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rod.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Funny guy. By the way...that day is TODAY!!! We're all legal and ready to rock.
You ready to ride...?
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Hey WS6 Formula, I appreciate the feedback. I didn't have any trouble finding neutral with mids. I changed to forwards (and no other changes/adjustments) and have the problem. I bought and installed the 06 and later kit. I did the duct tape and hacksaw blade thing. Can't understand why the clutch would need adjustment but, I'm gonna try it I guess. I'd rather not change the rear shift arm if I don't have to.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Hey WS6 Formula, I appreciate the feedback. I didn't have any trouble finding neutral with mids. I changed to forwards (and no other changes/adjustments) and have the problem. I bought and installed the 06 and later kit. I did the duct tape and hacksaw blade thing. Can't understand why the clutch would need adjustment but, I'm gonna try it I guess. I'd rather not change the rear shift arm if I don't have to.
Compare the side shot photo of my bikes shift lever to yours, is yours taller? If it is, changing the front lever would be the solution.
This is the front shift lever from the 2005 and earlier kit P/N 33789-03 CHROME GEAR SHIFT LEVER ($36.17 at Zanotti's). Check the part number that came in your kit,......Not the same?
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 6
From: Port Charlotte, Florida
I just did my forwards week ago i still have to cut the old linkage out of the primary but ill do that as winters here. I did get out and ride some the other day and agree its not as easy to find neutral.
Now my question is why cant you put the tranny shift arm on with the primary in place? The one that is on the bike factory is what iam using but i have had it off 3 or 4 times once on the side of the road and once at the dealer when they replaced it and i had to take it off for them because they wanted to pull the primary. If i can get that one off and back on with minimal tools on the side of the road and at the dealer i would assume i could put the new one back on unless there is something different that gives you a clearance issue???
Now my question is why cant you put the tranny shift arm on with the primary in place? The one that is on the bike factory is what iam using but i have had it off 3 or 4 times once on the side of the road and once at the dealer when they replaced it and i had to take it off for them because they wanted to pull the primary. If i can get that one off and back on with minimal tools on the side of the road and at the dealer i would assume i could put the new one back on unless there is something different that gives you a clearance issue???
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I just did my forwards week ago i still have to cut the old linkage out of the primary but ill do that as winters here. I did get out and ride some the other day and agree its not as easy to find neutral.
Now my question is why cant you put the tranny shift arm on with the primary in place? The one that is on the bike factory is what iam using but i have had it off 3 or 4 times once on the side of the road and once at the dealer when they replaced it and i had to take it off for them because they wanted to pull the primary. If i can get that one off and back on with minimal tools on the side of the road and at the dealer i would assume i could put the new one back on unless there is something different that gives you a clearance issue???
Now my question is why cant you put the tranny shift arm on with the primary in place? The one that is on the bike factory is what iam using but i have had it off 3 or 4 times once on the side of the road and once at the dealer when they replaced it and i had to take it off for them because they wanted to pull the primary. If i can get that one off and back on with minimal tools on the side of the road and at the dealer i would assume i could put the new one back on unless there is something different that gives you a clearance issue???
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 6
From: Port Charlotte, Florida
Got ya, yep thats what i was talking about. **** i did it on the side of the road and then got me to the dealer and they wanted to pull everything i said hell no hold on i got some riding to do go get the new lever and ill show you i just need the lever. They were amazed lol. We didn't think it would come out and figured we would have to pull it i said not today got people waitting on me and its going to be good day to ride lol.