06 FXDB forward controls
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 39
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From:
06 FXDB forward controls
Hello all! I'm reading the instructions for the HD Dyna forward control kit for my 06 FXDB. It looks like you have to remove the entire primary case and clutch just to get the mid shifter lever out. My question is for anyone who's done this before:
* Is there a way to do this without removing the primary case and clutch?
Thanks!
o~~
* Is there a way to do this without removing the primary case and clutch?
Thanks!
o~~
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee area
If you search "forward" you'd find this, eventually.
Originally Posted by WS6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rod.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-13...olt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rod.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-13...olt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
Many of us have installed forwards without pulling the primaries. You can simply cut the shufter shaft at the arm between the inner primary and the engine/tranny case.
Here are a couple related links:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_576946/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_613252/tm.htm
Here are a couple related links:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_576946/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_613252/tm.htm
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I followed these instructions to the "t" when I changed to forwards recently. Did a great job! Question though, ever since, I have a hell of a time finding neutral. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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If you don't want to cut and remove the shifter shaft you can slide it in toward the center of the bike and push it forward wedging it behind the bolt head coming out of the crank case. I rode for two years with this set up before finally taking the inner primary off and removing the shaft.
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Try re-adjusting your clutch.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
With this set up you have a shorter throw, so you just have to adapt to not moving your foot that much, try just tapping the shift lever with your foot.