Installed True Track today
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 547
Likes: 2
Put my True Track on 4 days ago. Just like others have said about their installs, the front is very easy and the back is more of a challenge. This job can be done by yourself which is the way I did it. Seems any of the Dynas 06 and newer have to reverse the direction of the lateral bolts on the rear motor mount so that it can mount to the new bracket which was about the most fun ever. Starting the threads into the bracket was about the same amount of fun but seemed to happen pretty quick for me. There is just no room to work in there. I removed one of my mufflers as well to assist in some type of easier access.
I for one hate buying things that don't make a change and aren't noticeable. This is not one of those items. Todays riding produced no sway/mis-tracking/wobble whatever you want to call it and I pushed it beyond where I use to feel it. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone experiencing the same situation.
Things that come to mind for the install:
Only tools I needed to use were sockets (standard and hexagon) several extensions and universal joint (rear lateral motor mounts) and 3/8 ratchet. I also used a craftsman bike lift and a floor jack. Also a drill bit.....I'll explain that later.
The front - very easy and not much to say. I only used the floor jack for this and the bike was on the kick stand. The jack supported the engine so when removing the two front motor mounts, I was able to keep the motor in the same position for reattaching the new motor mount button head bolts. Nothing else really to say.
The back - different story and the most time consuming but if I did it again for someone else, I'd do it in half the time. The idea of using two jacks came into play here and I'd set it up for the whole job if I did it again. Initially tried to do the rear in the same fasion meaning on the kick stand but I could not remove the lateral rear motor mounts. Removed both rear parallel motor mounts (in direct line with the rear tire) so see if that would help and it didn't....till later. At this point, only the lateral motor mount bolts that needed to be reversed were keeping the motor mount stable. This is the point I added the bike jack to get the bike level which made those bolts looser than my best friends sister. Make sure you switch 1 at a time. Once you've got that done, attaching the bracket to those bolts is just about getting lucky to start the threads. Attaching the other mount that is directly in front of the rear tire is easier by doing the following. Use the floor jack to support and manuever the engine so that you can align the holes. Unless you have the rear wheel removed, you can't physically see if the holes are lined up so this is where the drill bit came into place. Jack the engine while pressing in a drill bit that fills the hole and as soon as it slips in farther, you are pretty much lined up. Another trick; remove the heim joint from both brackets (the bolts are already loose) and be sure to keep everything in order. This allows for easy tool use on that rear bracket and once you get it tightened up, just reattach the heim joint and tighten per spec.
Pretty much everything else is self explanatory and hopefully this info comes in handy. Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions or I didn't explain clearly enough.
Dave
I for one hate buying things that don't make a change and aren't noticeable. This is not one of those items. Todays riding produced no sway/mis-tracking/wobble whatever you want to call it and I pushed it beyond where I use to feel it. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone experiencing the same situation.
Things that come to mind for the install:
Only tools I needed to use were sockets (standard and hexagon) several extensions and universal joint (rear lateral motor mounts) and 3/8 ratchet. I also used a craftsman bike lift and a floor jack. Also a drill bit.....I'll explain that later.
The front - very easy and not much to say. I only used the floor jack for this and the bike was on the kick stand. The jack supported the engine so when removing the two front motor mounts, I was able to keep the motor in the same position for reattaching the new motor mount button head bolts. Nothing else really to say.
The back - different story and the most time consuming but if I did it again for someone else, I'd do it in half the time. The idea of using two jacks came into play here and I'd set it up for the whole job if I did it again. Initially tried to do the rear in the same fasion meaning on the kick stand but I could not remove the lateral rear motor mounts. Removed both rear parallel motor mounts (in direct line with the rear tire) so see if that would help and it didn't....till later. At this point, only the lateral motor mount bolts that needed to be reversed were keeping the motor mount stable. This is the point I added the bike jack to get the bike level which made those bolts looser than my best friends sister. Make sure you switch 1 at a time. Once you've got that done, attaching the bracket to those bolts is just about getting lucky to start the threads. Attaching the other mount that is directly in front of the rear tire is easier by doing the following. Use the floor jack to support and manuever the engine so that you can align the holes. Unless you have the rear wheel removed, you can't physically see if the holes are lined up so this is where the drill bit came into place. Jack the engine while pressing in a drill bit that fills the hole and as soon as it slips in farther, you are pretty much lined up. Another trick; remove the heim joint from both brackets (the bolts are already loose) and be sure to keep everything in order. This allows for easy tool use on that rear bracket and once you get it tightened up, just reattach the heim joint and tighten per spec.
Pretty much everything else is self explanatory and hopefully this info comes in handy. Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions or I didn't explain clearly enough.
Dave
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 82
From: nj
I have a98 superglide and this sounds pretty ggood for my year as the newer bikes have came a long way. Do youhave to align motor when you are done like the manual says to do with the top stabalizer Thanks Charly
Banned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 367
Likes: 4
Put my True Track on 4 days ago. Just like others have said about their installs, the front is very easy and the back is more of a challenge. This job can be done by yourself which is the way I did it. Seems any of the Dynas 06 and newer have to reverse the direction of the lateral bolts on the rear motor mount so that it can mount to the new bracket which was about the most fun ever. Starting the threads into the bracket was about the same amount of fun but seemed to happen pretty quick for me. There is just no room to work in there. I removed one of my mufflers as well to assist in some type of easier access.
I for one hate buying things that don't make a change and aren't noticeable. This is not one of those items. Todays riding produced no sway/mis-tracking/wobble whatever you want to call it and I pushed it beyond where I use to feel it. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone experiencing the same situation.
Things that come to mind for the install:
Only tools I needed to use were sockets (standard and hexagon) several extensions and universal joint (rear lateral motor mounts) and 3/8 ratchet. I also used a craftsman bike lift and a floor jack. Also a drill bit.....I'll explain that later.
The front - very easy and not much to say. I only used the floor jack for this and the bike was on the kick stand. The jack supported the engine so when removing the two front motor mounts, I was able to keep the motor in the same position for reattaching the new motor mount button head bolts. Nothing else really to say.
The back - different story and the most time consuming but if I did it again for someone else, I'd do it in half the time. The idea of using two jacks came into play here and I'd set it up for the whole job if I did it again. Initially tried to do the rear in the same fasion meaning on the kick stand but I could not remove the lateral rear motor mounts. Removed both rear parallel motor mounts (in direct line with the rear tire) so see if that would help and it didn't....till later. At this point, only the lateral motor mount bolts that needed to be reversed were keeping the motor mount stable. This is the point I added the bike jack to get the bike level which made those bolts looser than my best friends sister. Make sure you switch 1 at a time. Once you've got that done, attaching the bracket to those bolts is just about getting lucky to start the threads. Attaching the other mount that is directly in front of the rear tire is easier by doing the following. Use the floor jack to support and manuever the engine so that you can align the holes. Unless you have the rear wheel removed, you can't physically see if the holes are lined up so this is where the drill bit came into place. Jack the engine while pressing in a drill bit that fills the hole and as soon as it slips in farther, you are pretty much lined up. Another trick; remove the heim joint from both brackets (the bolts are already loose) and be sure to keep everything in order. This allows for easy tool use on that rear bracket and once you get it tightened up, just reattach the heim joint and tighten per spec.
Pretty much everything else is self explanatory and hopefully this info comes in handy. Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions or I didn't explain clearly enough.
Dave
I for one hate buying things that don't make a change and aren't noticeable. This is not one of those items. Todays riding produced no sway/mis-tracking/wobble whatever you want to call it and I pushed it beyond where I use to feel it. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone experiencing the same situation.
Things that come to mind for the install:
Only tools I needed to use were sockets (standard and hexagon) several extensions and universal joint (rear lateral motor mounts) and 3/8 ratchet. I also used a craftsman bike lift and a floor jack. Also a drill bit.....I'll explain that later.
The front - very easy and not much to say. I only used the floor jack for this and the bike was on the kick stand. The jack supported the engine so when removing the two front motor mounts, I was able to keep the motor in the same position for reattaching the new motor mount button head bolts. Nothing else really to say.
The back - different story and the most time consuming but if I did it again for someone else, I'd do it in half the time. The idea of using two jacks came into play here and I'd set it up for the whole job if I did it again. Initially tried to do the rear in the same fasion meaning on the kick stand but I could not remove the lateral rear motor mounts. Removed both rear parallel motor mounts (in direct line with the rear tire) so see if that would help and it didn't....till later. At this point, only the lateral motor mount bolts that needed to be reversed were keeping the motor mount stable. This is the point I added the bike jack to get the bike level which made those bolts looser than my best friends sister. Make sure you switch 1 at a time. Once you've got that done, attaching the bracket to those bolts is just about getting lucky to start the threads. Attaching the other mount that is directly in front of the rear tire is easier by doing the following. Use the floor jack to support and manuever the engine so that you can align the holes. Unless you have the rear wheel removed, you can't physically see if the holes are lined up so this is where the drill bit came into place. Jack the engine while pressing in a drill bit that fills the hole and as soon as it slips in farther, you are pretty much lined up. Another trick; remove the heim joint from both brackets (the bolts are already loose) and be sure to keep everything in order. This allows for easy tool use on that rear bracket and once you get it tightened up, just reattach the heim joint and tighten per spec.
Pretty much everything else is self explanatory and hopefully this info comes in handy. Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions or I didn't explain clearly enough.
Dave
oh, and i'll need your friend's sister's phone #
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 547
Likes: 2
No prob......hope it helps with anyone trying to get this on.
His sister lives in Vegas now with some guy. Always amazed me for someone so hot she would give it to anyone as if they wanted a glass of water or something. Trust me though, you think you would want it but if you really knew the history you wouldn't.
His sister lives in Vegas now with some guy. Always amazed me for someone so hot she would give it to anyone as if they wanted a glass of water or something. Trust me though, you think you would want it but if you really knew the history you wouldn't.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 507
Likes: 3
From: 2 miles from the Sun!
Not sure who you were asking about the photos but I also have none. Only thing that I could recommend would be to take your time and when you are trying to start the bolts
for the rear lay on the exhaust side position the wire clip and put the Truetrack bracket over that. Hold the bracket with your right hand and reach under with your left and with a socket and extension try to start the threads on the bolt closest to the tire, this will enable you to move the bracket to help get hte bolt started, then do the other bolt from the primary side!
Well I went for a spin today about 60 miles to Boulder City and must say that I am pleased with the
Truetrack that I installed! The FXDX feels like it got a backbone more rigid and not as loose as it was before. The grooves in the road and the long ruts don't make me feel that they are pushing the bike around but more like the bike is riding over them , or on them.
I have always been selective about where I position myself in the lane,and can say that before installing the Trutrack I was constantly correcting to maintain that position. Now I feel that I am not always having to correct to maintain that position. Sweeping interchanges on freeways are different as the wandering and constant correcting is not there like it was. FYI this is the only Harley I have owned or ridden so any comparison
with other Harleys would be impossible. Previous rides are Norton. BMW K sreies Honda 750 Suzuki 750 water buffalo and Yamaha Cruiser other than the Norton none of the bikes had the wandering quirks of the rubber mounted motor system. I'm glad the the member who
got the group discount did so "Thank You very much for the time you spent to make that happen" Could I have lived with out the Truetrak probably , am I glad that I purchased the Truetrak yes with out a doubt! Hope this helps, my snowed in brothers get dry pavment soon!
FXRuss
for the rear lay on the exhaust side position the wire clip and put the Truetrack bracket over that. Hold the bracket with your right hand and reach under with your left and with a socket and extension try to start the threads on the bolt closest to the tire, this will enable you to move the bracket to help get hte bolt started, then do the other bolt from the primary side!
Well I went for a spin today about 60 miles to Boulder City and must say that I am pleased with the
Truetrack that I installed! The FXDX feels like it got a backbone more rigid and not as loose as it was before. The grooves in the road and the long ruts don't make me feel that they are pushing the bike around but more like the bike is riding over them , or on them.
I have always been selective about where I position myself in the lane,and can say that before installing the Trutrack I was constantly correcting to maintain that position. Now I feel that I am not always having to correct to maintain that position. Sweeping interchanges on freeways are different as the wandering and constant correcting is not there like it was. FYI this is the only Harley I have owned or ridden so any comparison
with other Harleys would be impossible. Previous rides are Norton. BMW K sreies Honda 750 Suzuki 750 water buffalo and Yamaha Cruiser other than the Norton none of the bikes had the wandering quirks of the rubber mounted motor system. I'm glad the the member who
got the group discount did so "Thank You very much for the time you spent to make that happen" Could I have lived with out the Truetrak probably , am I glad that I purchased the Truetrak yes with out a doubt! Hope this helps, my snowed in brothers get dry pavment soon!
FXRuss
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Had to reverse them on my wife's 2003 FXDXT, so don't trust TrueTrack's words!
Fitting these kits has been covered several times over now, so look for the other threads to get a wider view of fitting and riding.
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