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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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RE: UPDATED INFORMATION...
Just to throw this out there again...
I've got two different confirmations that, on the 1340ST, the first mode is practically non-adjustable. Yeah, you can move the lights back and forth, however, you'd have to kick it up to 7 or 8 before it would make any difference at all. And that difference is negligable, they say.
Whiff
I've got two different confirmations that, on the 1340ST, the first mode is practically non-adjustable. Yeah, you can move the lights back and forth, however, you'd have to kick it up to 7 or 8 before it would make any difference at all. And that difference is negligable, they say.
Whiff
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RE: UPDATED INFORMATION...
WHif, I suspect that the TFI and the closed loop operation are in a constant battle. One is programed to add fuel, the ECU is programmed to maintain an Air/Fuel ratio. The problem comes into play when you actually look at the factory stage one maps for the closed loop bikes. That restrictive closed loop mode is enabled over most (85 percent+) of the map. ALso, closed loop operation is enabled in areas where it has no business being used making enrichment real tough. I'll post a picture of this tonight and you can see the battle that is going on.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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RE: UPDATED INFORMATION...
I thought that, with the 02 connectors added on the 1340ST, the DFO interrupts the info coming in from the sensors before it gets to the ECU so that they don't battle, as you say. I could be wrong, of course. As it stands, I'm pretty happy with the performance of my bike with the DFO. I like that I now have the ability to look at something other than bone-white plugs. I just need to reel it in a bit.
Seriously, the only time I had ever seen even a hint of cocoa on the plugs prior to installing the DFO was when I was running the D/L with the SEIIs and stock A/C.
Whiff
Seriously, the only time I had ever seen even a hint of cocoa on the plugs prior to installing the DFO was when I was running the D/L with the SEIIs and stock A/C.
Whiff
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Conway, SC
RE: UPDATED INFORMATION...
Here's an excerpt from http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/carbadjust.htm about plugs .
Plug reading is as much an art as a science for most people. Lots of experience is needed to REALLY do it up right. For most street riders, making sure your plugs are a nice tan color is usually good enough. Don't bother reading the plugs until you have done preliminary fine tuning. You will need several sets of new plugs, gapped and ready to use. After your bike is properly warmed up, after installing a fresh set of plugs, you will need to do a full throttle acceleration test, making sure the bike gets to full RPMs in 4th gear. (The Motorcycle Performance Guide staff recommends you take the bike your local drag strip for this testing. Your local sheriff usually has no sense of humor about a motorcycle running down his roads in excess on 90 MPH). At the peak RPMs, you will need to shut down the engine before you let off the throttle, and coast to a stop. Remove the plugs and look at the general color of the porcelain. If the porcelain is black, the engine is running rich, requiring the installation of a smaller jet. If the porcelain is bone white or a very light tan the engine is running lean, requiring the installation of a larger jet. If the porcelain is tan to light brown, the jetting is close. If additional tuning runs are required to adjust the carburetor, make sure you install a fresh set of plugs before each run. You can not read the condition of the plugs unless the plug is fresh.
If you are in doubt as to the jetting, make sure you jet on the rich side (tan>brown>black). Because of potential engine damage, you are better off slightly rich rather than lean. A lean engine can detonate, causing permanent damage.
I say you're lean.
Plug reading is as much an art as a science for most people. Lots of experience is needed to REALLY do it up right. For most street riders, making sure your plugs are a nice tan color is usually good enough. Don't bother reading the plugs until you have done preliminary fine tuning. You will need several sets of new plugs, gapped and ready to use. After your bike is properly warmed up, after installing a fresh set of plugs, you will need to do a full throttle acceleration test, making sure the bike gets to full RPMs in 4th gear. (The Motorcycle Performance Guide staff recommends you take the bike your local drag strip for this testing. Your local sheriff usually has no sense of humor about a motorcycle running down his roads in excess on 90 MPH). At the peak RPMs, you will need to shut down the engine before you let off the throttle, and coast to a stop. Remove the plugs and look at the general color of the porcelain. If the porcelain is black, the engine is running rich, requiring the installation of a smaller jet. If the porcelain is bone white or a very light tan the engine is running lean, requiring the installation of a larger jet. If the porcelain is tan to light brown, the jetting is close. If additional tuning runs are required to adjust the carburetor, make sure you install a fresh set of plugs before each run. You can not read the condition of the plugs unless the plug is fresh.
If you are in doubt as to the jetting, make sure you jet on the rich side (tan>brown>black). Because of potential engine damage, you are better off slightly rich rather than lean. A lean engine can detonate, causing permanent damage.
I say you're lean.
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